I will lead into my " Food For Thought" comments on simple HP performance improvements by first stating my education and professional background is in propulsion engineering and management but I am now retired. I specialized in Brayton Cyle (gas turbine) and Otto Cycle (mostly automotive gasoline power).
I have been a speed freak since a younster and started with muscle cars, switched to Porscha for about 30 years, had a 3rd generation Twin Turbo RX-7, built several street and drag cars, the last one being an S-10 with a warmed over 383 L98 small block, 700R4 and 80 vette rear, and now-------------------I drive a GXP to feed my need for speed.
I love the GXP and for the price you can't beat it! It is not super quick, but it has the potential to be a nice mid to low 13 second car with excellent handling abilities without breaking the bank!!!
In my quest for speed I started to devote a small amount of time and energy in reading a fair amout about the direct injection engines. I also listen to forum members on several KAPPA car forums and have been developing a seat of the pants feel for what my engine seems to be telling me at different RPM levels.
Now to simple performance improvements: The spark advance at higher RPM levels on my GXP is retarding,no doubt about that issue. I do not need to place my car on a dyno to know it is cutting advance big time at higher RPM levels.
Since I always run 93 octane and the computer is still retarding spark advance, I decided to see what NOX Octane Booster would do. I went to Summit and bought the octane booster that raises the octane number by three, which would give approx. 96 octane. Low and behold,I could feel the difference, especially between 4800 to 6200 RPM. My next test will be using the "Off Road" NOX Octane Booster which increases the Octane by 5 if I remember correctly? If you want a little more performance try the NOX Octane Booster and see what you think? I have not tried any other brand of Booster, but some other brand may be as good or better than NOX.
My next item of concern where my engine may be down on power is the high operating temp of the engine. My car (winter only so far) is reading between 190-194F when performing "around town driving." I'm going to place some Water Wetter (Redline product) in the cooling system to bring down the operating temp and see if I can feel any seat of the pants improvement due to lower temp. My thinking on this is, operating at a lower temp may allow the computer to keep more advance in at higher RPM levels. This may be another little trick to increase performance, but I have not conducted the test yet.
My next bang for a buck" will be installing a 3" CAT in front of the stock system and taking some performance readings and then installing a Cat Back System and taking additional readings. My reasoning is, I want to see what the CAT only increase will be with the stock exhaust system before installing the Cat Back system. Since I will not be utilizing a dyno I'm going to time the engine in fourth gear from 2500 RPM to 6000. This test will be conducted without and with the 3' CAT and the stock exhaust. I will then test the entire system with the 3''cat and full cat back system in the same RPM range. If there is a 10 to 35 HP increase as claimed by a couple of the manufactures, I should be able to see it on the stop watch when performing the Time/RPM tests. I believe the engine may see a 10 to 15 HP increase with just the 3"'converter installed. If that is the case, some of you who are budget limited may consider the purchase of a exhaust system by purchasing a 3'cat first and then adding on as your budget permits.
I will report results of the Water Wetter and all exhaust findings after I complete the installations and perform the testing. I will perform a similar test on an air intake system as soon as I can find a vendor who is going to have them on the market. That test will be conducted with the 3" Cat and Cat Back system already installed on the car.
Well until next time, have fun with your ride and enjoy! Great driving weather is only a few weeks away where I live and boy will I be ready!!!
I don't know what thermostat comes in the 2.0 Ecotech, but if it has a 190 degree thermostat it will run at LEAST 190. It would be interesting to see what the dyno results of a thermostat change might be. One caution, however - lowering the operating temps may effect emissions,a nd that could be an issue in states/areas that have "sniff" tests. The octane booster might be worth a call to Summit!!!
__________________ Redline (pre-halt), Pearl, Black/Red
complete option list except auto, 3" MF cat-back,
painted calipers, owner installed power lock buttons
my father has the 3" catback installed in the gxp it gave him 30hp boost. not only that it sounds great. you may want to wait for the computer retune, that will free up the restrictions on the car.
__________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Pontiac builds excitement... Saturn has rethought it's image...
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#1922 12/03/05
N/A Classic Solstice
Mysterious Steel/Sand w/ 6-Disc Monsoon
Conv., Pwr & Premium Pkgs A/C LSD Carpet Mats
MODS: GM CAI & CATBAck
Hi Frank,
Looking forward to seeing your data. I tried to tweek the temp on my first Sol, a "base" model (Yes, I totally realize it's apples and oranges) with "Water Wetter"with absolutely no reduction at all in engine temp. I even went so far as to double the recommended amount of "Water Wetter" and I still couldn't get even one degree less in operating temp. I'm not knocking the product (it works in my Tundra) and I'm not suggesting your results will be similar. I'm just reporting what my experience was and that I was dissappointed with the results. I'm driving a GXP now and am beginning to realize how predictable (and precise) it's temps are under varying circumstances. I've been charting temp levels and performance is remarkably consistant when replicating prior conditions. I've also been surprised at how little either of my Sols has been affected by ambient temps. We have normal Summers and cold Winters here in New England and I find the impact on either car has been almost undetectable. I'm beginning to think that it may require 100+ degree temps to have much ambient effect on these cars under normal driving conditions in factory dress. I'm also convinced a lot of consideration went into the functioning of the cooling system of the 2.0 before it was signed off on. Good Luck, I'm looking forward to learning from what you can tell us. -bird
Location: Long Island, NY... a sister island to the Hawaiian chain. ;-)
After speaking with two local Pontiac dealers, sticking with the stock cat seems like the smart thing to do... at least until the power train warranty runs out.
Both dealers felt the warranty would be null and void if the cat were switched. Yeah, I know some people are saying they have to prove the damage was done by the mod, but it's just not worth the headaches.
Besides, I think the "real" gains will come with a larger turbo and ECM tune... at which point I could definately kiss the warranty goodbye, so I'll wait it out and go with a larger free flow cat at that same time.
Hi Frank,
Looking forward to seeing your data. I tried to tweek the temp on my first Sol, a "base" model (Yes, I totally realize it's apples and oranges) with "Water Wetter"with absolutely no reduction at all in engine temp. I even went so far as to double the recommended amount of "Water Wetter" and I still couldn't get even one degree less in operating temp. I'm not knocking the product (it works in my Tundra) and I'm not suggesting your results will be similar. I'm just reporting what my experience was and that I was dissappointed with the results. I'm driving a GXP now and am beginning to realize how predictable (and precise) it's temps are under varying circumstances. I've been charting temp levels and performance is remarkably consistant when replicating prior conditions. I've also been surprised at how little either of my Sols has been affected by ambient temps. We have normal Summers and cold Winters here in New England and I find the impact on either car has been almost undetectable. I'm beginning to think that it may require 100+ degree temps to have much ambient effect on these cars under normal driving conditions in factory dress. I'm also convinced a lot of consideration went into the functioning of the cooling system of the 2.0 before it was signed off on. Good Luck, I'm looking forward to learning from what you can tell us. -bird
Your statements seem to prove once again the coolant temperatures are being regulated by the thermostat. I have also noticed similar results with varying outside temps. That being said two things stand out, 1) the cooling system has the capacity to handle the BTU rejection required, and 2) The thermostat is in control, modifying for earlier opening will reduce coolant temps.
__________________
It is Cool, Leather, XM, Monsoon and different! :)
Your statements seem to prove once again the coolant temperatures are being regulated by the thermostat. I have also noticed similar results with varying outside temps. That being said two things stand out, 1) the cooling system has the capacity to handle the BTU rejection required, and 2) The thermostat is in control, modifying for earlier opening will reduce coolant temps.
Hi b,
Excellent points both and thanks for making them. I appreciate seeing things like this prove out. -bird
Location: Rosamond, CA - Home of Willow Springs Raceway
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beau
I don't have any cam updates for ya guys. Its probably not gonna come around for many months.
That's ok. I won't be in the market for cams until after I do a turbo upgrade. That's a ways away.
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2007 Cool GXP with Darkside Top, 5 spd, Ebony Cloth, Monsoon with Single CD, Sport Pedals, XM, A/C
Mods - Solo Street/Race Exhaust, K&N Drop-in Air Filter, EDAL
you may want to wait for the computer retune, that will free up the restrictions on the car.
Give us a crumb or two at least!