Why & where you should/shouldn't run an Oil Catch Can (OCC) on an LNF kappa - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum

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Old 04-17-2012, 10:08 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SolNut View Post
F W I W

The Factory OEM dot com replacement part#12598298 I ordered last week arrived today via USPS PP.

It is exactly the same part as the one on my 2009 Pure Solstice GXP Coupe #0069.

INSTALLED!!! ....should have bought two!

Right on!!!

I have one to pick up at GM today. But it is good to know we can find them online for less money. I have a feeling this would be a good part to keep a spare around for.

Sending you a PM as well.
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Late last year I installed dual catch cans (independent cans, and kept check valve in place). I checked them both a few days ago after about 1000km of driving and they both were clean. The 1000 kms I would consider spirited but nothing like autocross or significant WOT.


I did have dry oil trails in my intake pipes before I installed, as well as oil at the nipple connectors, which made me consider the OCC's.

I suspect the dried oil in intake came from overfills during oil changes, or perhaps a one time stuck check valve. The nipples were probably wet purely from vapour only.

So far so good though, so I'd listen to TS, if you haven't found oil in your intake pipes or autocross I'd hold off on OCC's until more of us comment.

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Old 01-14-2013, 07:42 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I have done a ton of reading on this issue, after doing so I have reached some conclusions. We get a ton of accumulation in the heads on the backside of the valves, I saw it when I removed the intake recently. This is a real issue with these cars! No oil catch can does anything to help this, the most common installation is just to act as a backup in case the check valve fails, even if it fails it just makes a mess more than anything. You can clean it for $8 with MAF cleaner or replace it for about $40 either being cheaper than an oil catch can and more effective. Our cars don't need oil catch cans, what they do need to to run some intake cleaner thru them at every oil change. It takes about 30 minutes and it actually does some good.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:44 AM   #34 (permalink)
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So are you saying MAF cleaner cleans the backside (or underside) of the valves?

Maybe a combo of both, OCC + MAF cleaner (at oil changes) for lifers?
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:13 AM   #35 (permalink)
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So are you saying MAF cleaner cleans the backside (or underside) of the valves?

Maybe a combo of both, OCC + MAF cleaner (at oil changes) for lifers?
No. The MAF cleaner is to clean a gummed up (or possibly gummed up) check valve (in Line A on my photo). Actually though, I found rubbing alcohol works fine too.

He's saying run intake cleaner (e.g. SeaFoam or similar, NOT MAF cleaner) into the engine at oil changes (via the intake). I personally think that often is unnecessary, and would do it once a year (or even two), but who's to say?
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:06 PM   #36 (permalink)
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No. The MAF cleaner is to clean a gummed up (or possibly gummed up) check valve (in Line A on my photo). Actually though, I found rubbing alcohol works fine too.

He's saying run intake cleaner (e.g. SeaFoam or similar, NOT MAF cleaner) into the engine at oil changes (via the intake). I personally think that often is unnecessary, and would do it once a year (or even two), but who's to say?
Hey TS, how do you pull that puppy off of the engine side (the other sides a breeze)?
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:27 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Hey TS, how do you pull that puppy off of the engine side (the other sides a breeze)?
See page 1 of this thread

Why & where you should/shouldn't run an Oil Catch Can (OCC) on an LNF kappa
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:04 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Dang, and I read that too, must have blinked as I was passing that huge picture of the disconnect tool thanks for being kind to this tenured flatulator.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:58 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I have cleaned my intake with Seafoam now 5 times, it finally is blowing less smoke. After what I saw with the intake off, I am not sure it is clean yet. It wasn't just a little build up it was A HUGE build up, the intake holes where half closed with crud. I had 60,000 on the car when I pulled the intake, that would be roughly 12 oil changes. I still got smoke for over a mile, and I mean a lot of smoke after the 5th treatment so I am thinking every oil change is about right. They say to change the oil after you do the cleaning so as I just changed the oil it will be a while before I do it again. I have only ever run 100% synthetic Royal Purple in my car.
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Wester's Garage tune
RMR Style Bar.
SSR Type C wheels, Nitto 555's
DDM Works PINK Breastplate, PRO Beam
HKS Coilovers
GXP Z0K rear sway bar with urethane bushings
Custom Jonymac glass wind screen, one of a kind.
Eclipse AVN726e; ZED Audio Leviathan, Image Dynamics tweeters, CTS door subs, active crossover tri-amped. Audio Control 6 channel 30 band parametric EQ.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #40 (permalink)
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The amount of smoke is not an indicator of how much carbon/oil deposits you have. It is an indicator of how much solvent you are burning. The large majority of the smoke produced during an intake cleaning is the solvent in the Seafoam, and not the carbon itself.

You could take a brand new sparkling clean engine, run Seafoam through it and it would still produce a large amount of smoke out the tail pipe.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #41 (permalink)
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3rd oil path to cylinders

A 3rd way oil vapor can get into the 4 engine cylinders is thru the PCV valve that is located and out of site in the intake MANIFOLD. The PCV sucks oil vapor out of the engine and sends it thru the intake MANIFOLD, by the intake valves and directly to the 4 engine cylinders. This occurs when the intake MANIFOLD is under a high vacumn condition such as idleing or light steady throttle. When the intake is under a pressure or low vacumn condition like when you mash the acellerator and your turbo starts creating boost the PCV closes. This is my story and I'm sticking to it. Jerry
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:53 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Hey Guys.

Though I am a Sky Driver and do not a solstice, I need to wake this thread up.

I ordered a used valve cover to build my own pcv with an occ.
But I think there is a vital part missing...

NEW ONE:
[img width=400 height=224]http://s14.directupload.net/images/131011/wrkxup96.jpg[/img]
OLD ONE:
[img width=400 height=224]http://s7.directupload.net/images/131011/6ar93xvn.jpg[/img]

This "90degree-tube" that connects the Hose in Line A (regarding to post #1 page1) to the valve cover...

THIS THING(OLD ONE):
[img width=400 height=224]http://s7.directupload.net/images/131011/mk4g6u8r.jpg[/img]
Seems to be missing(NEW ONE):
[img width=400 height=224]http://s14.directupload.net/images/131011/uqdgwpqp.jpg[/img]

Is it possible to replace this tube?!

Yours, Napi.

P.S.: I may be dumb as h#@?, but I wasn't able to find the "introduce yourself"-thread... Where is it?!
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:43 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Oh.
I Made some mistakes in the post before. I'll try again and fix the images...
Hey Guys.

Though I am a Sky Driver and do not a solstice, I need to wake this thread up.

I ordered a used valve cover to build my own pcv with an occ.
But I think there is a vital part missing...

NEW ONE:

OLD ONE:


This "90degree-tube" that connects the Hose in Line A (regarding to post #1 page1) to the valve cover...

THIS THING(OLD ONE):

Seems to be missing(NEW ONE):


Is it possible to replace this tube with a stock one or do I have to weld on an aftermarket piece there?!

Please don't wonder about the straight connector at the front of the cover. It was removed by purpose.

Yours, Napi.

P.S.: I may be dumb as h#@?, but I wasn't able to find the "introduce yourself"-thread... Where is it?![/QUOTE]
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:49 AM   #44 (permalink)
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If you ever have the same problem: here is my working solution.

Buy a dash06-weld on-adapter.
Have someone weld it on the hole.
Buy a 90degree dash06 rubber hose fitting.
Remove the OEM-hose to the valve on the charge tube.
Replace it with a 3/8inch heat resistant rubber hose.

Done.

:-)

BUT, of course there is another problem...

Inside of the valve cover(red circle) seems to be a vacuum-valve...
How do I remove it???
Simply drill in it?!
Or is there any way to removed it in one piece?!

Yours,
Napi.
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:22 AM   #45 (permalink)
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And again:
My solution.
"nothing"
There was a small metal flake blocking the hole.
Cleaned it, drilled a bigger diameter, and now the part is at the metal workshop to be finished.
As soon as it returns from powder-coating, I am going to post pics.

Yours,
Napi.
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