Hi guys, a few months ago I installed my stage II from DDM. Didn't tighten the crank pulley hard enough and slipped off and cost a pretty penny to get fixed. DDM was very nice and sent me a replacement crank pulley quickly, although it still took a week and a half for the shop to finish. Since then I've had quite a few problems that I'd like some help with. I'll name the problems then maybe you can help me out with why they might be there. DDM was supposed to stop by today, but have heard nothing from them and I would really like to get an idea of what's going on.
Everything is tight and on correctly as a professional reinstalled everything after the crank pulley incident.
1. Loud squeek (sounds like a belt) on start up until normal operating temp.
2. Grinding noise (like trying to start a gas weedeater) when the rev lowers. Usually only does it between the 2000 and 3500 rpm range and also stops after reaching NOT.
3. Overheating. Temp without the air conditioning goes to 220 and with the air on goes as high as 235 before I have to pull over and wait for a cool down. I think DDM has pinpointed the problem as some pieces were missing in the kit to shield heat from the intercooler. But, figured I'd mention it anyways.
4. My air conditioning will be cool one minute and blow basically warm air either on the highway or at idle. At idle I usually don't get cold air.
5. My most recent problem is spuddering. Through first and second it's normally not as bad. But, third gear and up is horrible. It happens between 2500 and 4000 rpm like I'm quickly lifting off the gas and pushing back quickly and repeatedly. Engine temp skyrockets after that and I'm worried that I'm hurting my engine. Sent DDM an e-mail and called them and left a message two weeks ago and haven't heard back probably because they've been busy.
Any help offered would be amazing. Especially with the spuddering. Thanks in advance.
Hi guys, a few months ago I installed my stage II from DDM. Didn't tighten the crank pulley hard enough and slipped off and cost a pretty penny to get fixed. DDM was very nice and sent me a replacement crank pulley quickly, although it still took a week and a half for the shop to finish. Since then I've had quite a few problems that I'd like some help with. I'll name the problems then maybe you can help me out with why they might be there. DDM was supposed to stop by today, but have heard nothing from them and I would really like to get an idea of what's going on.
Everything is tight and on correctly as a professional reinstalled everything after the crank pulley incident.
1. Loud squeek (sounds like a belt) on start up until normal operating temp.
2. Grinding noise (like trying to start a gas weedeater) when the rev lowers. Usually only does it between the 2000 and 3500 rpm range and also stops after reaching NOT.
3. Overheating. Temp without the air conditioning goes to 220 and with the air on goes as high as 235 before I have to pull over and wait for a cool down. I think DDM has pinpointed the problem as some pieces were missing in the kit to shield heat from the intercooler. But, figured I'd mention it anyways.
4. My air conditioning will be cool one minute and blow basically warm air either on the highway or at idle. At idle I usually don't get cold air.
5. My most recent problem is spuddering. Through first and second it's normally not as bad. But, third gear and up is horrible. It happens between 2500 and 4000 rpm like I'm quickly lifting off the gas and pushing back quickly and repeatedly. Engine temp skyrockets after that and I'm worried that I'm hurting my engine. Sent DDM an e-mail and called them and left a message two weeks ago and haven't heard back probably because they've been busy.
Any help offered would be amazing. Especially with the spuddering. Thanks in advance.
First off DDM was at the nationals and probably didn't get back until late yesterday, and probably won't be in the shop until tomorrow, then there is all the voice messages and emails they will have to wade through.
1. Have you checked your power steering fluid level for the sqeek?
2. some of the S/C growl at low RPM, there are days mine sounds like a box of rocks.
3. You might have air in the cooling system - there are specific procedures for refilling and getting the air out.
4. This could be the same as #3 the other possibility for both 3&4 are the sensors associated with the cooling system. Check those.
5. Could be a lot of things, cat, coil pack, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, you will need diagnostics.
Without knowing what damages where done when you lost the pulley, but you could have bent something, frayed a wire, all kinds of things.
__________________
BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
DDM stage III w/custom CAI
probeam, backbone, tower strut, Exedy Stage II clutch
JPM custom dash, center console, door inserts
Solo SQR2 with Norm's center defused panel
FucuzTech Tri-Y header and high flow cat DDM Stage III Upgrade here
Give Dave a chance. There will be a reason why he hasn't called you back. I haven't had a question that Dave couldn't answer. I think he has seen everything and anything that can go wrong with these little motors!
__________________
DDM super charger Stage 2
GMHP Cat Back
First off DDM was at the nationals and probably didn't get back until late yesterday, and probably won't be in the shop until tomorrow, then there is all the voice messages and emails they will have to wade through.
1. Have you checked your power steering fluid level for the sqeek?
2. some of the S/C growl at low RPM, there are days mine sounds like a box of rocks.
3. You might have air in the cooling system - there are specific procedures for refilling and getting the air out.
4. This could be the same as #3 the other possibility for both 3&4 are the sensors associated with the cooling system. Check those.
5. Could be a lot of things, cat, coil pack, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, you will need diagnostics.
Without knowing what damages where done when you lost the pulley, but you could have bent something, frayed a wire, all kinds of things.
Well I'm in Texas and they were doing to be very nice and take a long way home and stop by here to help me out. I maybe misunderstood the e-mail, but I thought the were going to be here Tues night, but haven't heard anything. I'm not blaming them for anything and I understand if they were late or off schedule. I know how long driving can be, especially when they did all of that work in CO.
1. Power steering is full. And it sounds like every time the belt goes around it squeaks.
2. The "growl" didn't start until recently. I figured if it was normal it would have been there the whole time and would have done it consistently.
3. That sounds right. The guy at the shop took off some parts of the cooling system and caused a leak (happened with a seal). Maybe some air got in? Is it hard/expensive to fix?
4. I don't have any new codes. I have a Dashhawk DDM sent me to fix the engine light for the crank pulley. So if there's a way to tell from that, that would be awesome.
5. Okay. Thanks so much for your help.
My crank pulley came loose and wobbled and cracked itself. I bent the woodruff(sp?) key and lost a seal and power steering belt. Like 80 bucks for the parts and a ton for labor.
Give Dave a chance. There will be a reason why he hasn't called you back. I haven't had a question that Dave couldn't answer. I think he has seen everything and anything that can go wrong with these little motors!
Yeah, I know they're good guys. I'll give him all the time he needs. I just can't stand not knowing anything.
Decided to give DDM a call an hour ago. Received disappointing news. They apparently didn't have time to stop by (last Tuesday) and didn't feel like a call or e-mail was necessary. Randy is in Wichita Falls (about 3 hours away) and I was asked to drive there. Of course I wouldn't drive that far because I don't feel like my car breaking down on the way there. I don't appreciate how this is being handled. I don't think that wanting to have my vehicle work properly is a huge demand. I know that Randy and Dave are good guys and I know that they can help out over the phone, but it takes so long to do that that it's unbearable. I'm pretty close to taking the S/C out because I'm sick of all of the problems not being addressed. Just the overheating they've known about for a month, the others since I got it out of the shop and still nothing has been done. They were nice enough to send me the Dashhawk to fix my crank code, but nothing since. Car is going to a Pontiac dealership tomorrow to see if the cat is the problem and I hope that they will fix it quickly and that the other problems are inexpensive as well because I'm flat broke.
Decided to give DDM a call an hour ago. Received disappointing news. They apparently didn't have time to stop by (last Tuesday) and didn't feel like a call or e-mail was necessary. Randy is in Wichita Falls (about 3 hours away) and I was asked to drive there. Of course I wouldn't drive that far because I don't feel like my car breaking down on the way there. I don't appreciate how this is being handled. I don't think that wanting to have my vehicle work properly is a huge demand. I know that Randy and Dave are good guys and I know that they can help out over the phone, but it takes so long to do that that it's unbearable. I'm pretty close to taking the S/C out because I'm sick of all of the problems not being addressed. Just the overheating they've known about for a month, the others since I got it out of the shop and still nothing has been done. They were nice enough to send me the Dashhawk to fix my crank code, but nothing since. Car is going to a Pontiac dealership tomorrow to see if the cat is the problem and I hope that they will fix it quickly and that the other problems are inexpensive as well because I'm flat broke.
I needed to vent a little and that was it.
Wecome to the club. It seems getting a reply from them gets more difficult. Just not the same as it was in the past. Hope its something simple.
1. Loud squeek (sounds like a belt) on start up until normal operating temp.
2. Grinding noise (like trying to start a gas weedeater) when the rev lowers. Usually only does it between the 2000 and 3500 rpm range and also stops after reaching NOT.
3. Overheating. Temp without the air conditioning goes to 220 and with the air on goes as high as 235 before I have to pull over and wait for a cool down. I think DDM has pinpointed the problem as some pieces were missing in the kit to shield heat from the intercooler. But, figured I'd mention it anyways.
4. My air conditioning will be cool one minute and blow basically warm air either on the highway or at idle. At idle I usually don't get cold air.
5. My most recent problem is spuddering. Through first and second it's normally not as bad. But, third gear and up is horrible. It happens between 2500 and 4000 rpm like I'm quickly lifting off the gas and pushing back quickly and repeatedly. Engine temp skyrockets after that and I'm worried that I'm hurting my engine. Sent DDM an e-mail and called them and left a message two weeks ago and haven't heard back probably because they've been busy.
Any help offered would be amazing. Especially with the spuddering. Thanks in advance.
I still have an intermittent problem with my AC as well. I will blow cold then warm, then cold at any time and it will have no pattern. It doesnt happen often, so i've left it alone.
Numbers 3 and 5 are directly related IMO. After solving my problems after 2 weeks of Dave, Randy, and I troubleshooting and some helpful tips from other forum members, it came down to being a faulty CAT. I suffered the sputtering as you describe and it got worse the more i drove it, until the symptoms were even in the low RPM ranges. I watched my temps climb to 220 as well. I believe it has to do with the fact that the hot exhaust gas has very little exit room because the CAT is clogged.
My resolution and suggestion to you: 1 Disconnect your battery. 2 Change both your CAT and spark plugs at the same time. 3 Clean your MAF sensor. 4 Reseat your MAP sensor. 5 Reconnect battery.
Start with this, then attack any other issues that remain. See the following thread for more info:
I know it's frustrating when your car is not working properly. Modding is not for the faint of heart. I was extremely frustrated when i was having issues and i too thought of ripping out my S/C. You taking out the S/C at this point is going backwards and will not solve the problems especially since the CAT is the major culprit for the failures, IMO. A CAT change may not fix everything, but it should fix most. I am basing my opinion on what i experienced personally to my car. That being said, you will have to choose what YOU are going to do and where to spend your time and money to address the issues.
__________________
"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
I still have an intermittent problem with my AC as well. I will blow cold then warm, then cold at any time and it will have no pattern. It doesnt happen often, so i've left it alone.
Numbers 3 and 5 are directly related IMO. After solving my problems after 2 weeks of Dave, Randy, and I troubleshooting and some helpful tips from other forum members, it came down to being a faulty CAT. I suffered the sputtering as you describe and it got worse the more i drove it, until the symptoms were even in the low RPM ranges. I watched my temps climb to 220 as well. I believe it has to do with the fact that the hot exhaust gas has very little exit room because the CAT is clogged.
My resolution and suggestion to you: 1 Disconnect your battery. 2 Change both your CAT and spark plugs at the same time. 3 Clean your MAF sensor. 4 Reseat your MAP sensor. 5 Reconnect battery.
Start with this, then attack any other issues that remain. See the following thread for more info:
I know it's frustrating when your car is not working properly. Modding is not for the faint of heart. I was extremely frustrated when i was having issues and i too thought of ripping out my S/C. You taking out the S/C at this point is going backwards and will not solve the problems especially since the CAT is the major culprit for the failures, IMO. A CAT change may not fix everything, but it should fix most. I am basing my opinion on what i experienced personally to my car. That being said, you will have to choose what YOU are going to do and where to spend your time and money to address the issues.
I still have an intermittent problem with my AC as well. I will blow cold then warm, then cold at any time and it will have no pattern. It doesnt happen often, so i've left it alone.
Numbers 3 and 5 are directly related IMO. After solving my problems after 2 weeks of Dave, Randy, and I troubleshooting and some helpful tips from other forum members, it came down to being a faulty CAT. I suffered the sputtering as you describe and it got worse the more i drove it, until the symptoms were even in the low RPM ranges. I watched my temps climb to 220 as well. I believe it has to do with the fact that the hot exhaust gas has very little exit room because the CAT is clogged.
My resolution and suggestion to you: 1 Disconnect your battery. 2 Change both your CAT and spark plugs at the same time. 3 Clean your MAF sensor. 4 Reseat your MAP sensor. 5 Reconnect battery.
Start with this, then attack any other issues that remain. See the following thread for more info:
I know it's frustrating when your car is not working properly. Modding is not for the faint of heart. I was extremely frustrated when i was having issues and i too thought of ripping out my S/C. You taking out the S/C at this point is going backwards and will not solve the problems especially since the CAT is the major culprit for the failures, IMO. A CAT change may not fix everything, but it should fix most. I am basing my opinion on what i experienced personally to my car. That being said, you will have to choose what YOU are going to do and where to spend your time and money to address the issues.
Thanks for the input. I hope GM will replace the CAT for free (if it did actually fail). But, don't CAT's usually fail because of another problem? They don't usually just fail on their own, correct? I just don't want them to fix it and then the problem that broke the first one break the new one. I just wish someone from DDM could look at it and pinpoint what all of the problems are without me having to go through this whole process. It would have helped a lot if they would have actually came by.
Is the crank pulley a problem with installing a SC. I read the
instruction and I didn't see anything about removing the crank pulley
and reinstalling it.Was there a reason for it or are you saying it
wasn't tighten correctly from the the factory?
As I have a SC on order now.
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