Solstice Dyno Test

[brentil]

All I can think of is some sort of VVT issue or GM did this on purpose in the computer. This RPM range is around where you would be cruising at high speeds in 5th gear. Maybe it's to increase fuel economy at highway speeds?

If you look at all the graphs for CAI, headers, exhausts though every single one of them sees a massive increase at this RPM though. Much larger then anywhere else on the graph pretty much.

I really wish someone with more knowledge on this type of stuff would add to this.

[werks]

Originally Posted by brentil I was having issues with the image no loading for me so I attached it to your post as well. Seeing that 3200 RPM torque drop over and over again just baffles me all the time. Is GM doing something the the ECU or something to hinder the engine at that point or something?

When we ran Dogtown's car we had our scanner plugged in and noticed timing was pulled back where the torque drops, but not all that much. It should not have caused that big of a dip in torque.

[scott rauch]

Where did you get them?
I sold my Miata when I bought the Solstice,
thanks
scottfishy@aol.com

[ill_eagle94]

Looking at JT72's dyno graph, it seems as though the car could benefit from an AFC to lean it out a bit up top.

[Critterman]

Dynoflow
70 dregree day
end of tailpipe Air/fuel reading

all three pulls

Best pull

[Mr. Soulstice]

JT72 thanks for posting this.

I was going to ask if anyone dyno'd their stock (right off of the show room) solstice and what their RWHP was.

Much of what I have seen and read on almost all cars is based on an approximate 15% drive train loss, depending on whether the car is an auto or manual. W/manuals usually having less of a loss, not sure why. Either way it seems like a good average to use. Also, someone would probably see an increase in RWHP w/a few more miles on your car (once it's "broken-in"). It seems that 139sh to 145sh RWHP would be an expectable range for a stock solstice.

[LatinVenom]

WE use 143WHP as been the standard when talking about the stock Solstice.

[brentil]

Link to another dyno graph;
My dyno report

[Jack B]

Please let me inject some different thoughts on the dyno, which comes from over two hundred pulls on a dynojet:

1. Many operators will charge extra for connecting the a/f, therefore, many people don't log the a/f. That is a mistake, the reason for the dyno pull is to tune and you cannot do such without a/f. I am sure that someome will shortly have a piggyback ecm adder to adjust the a/f.

2. If the operator of the Dynojet brand uses the factory a/f set-up, it is notorius for showing lean. It could be one point plus at the low end and close to one point at the high end. To be as accurate as possible you have to tell them to remove all smoothing. Secondly, it becomes more accurate if you have them start their log as you go WOT.

3. The a/f will have further inaccuracies due to the use of a tail pipe sniffer, These devices are inherently inaccurate, plus, you are below the cats. If you are serious about tuning you have to install an in-car wide band O2 set-up. YOU DO NOT MAKE CHANGES TO A HIGH BOOST CAR WITHOUT LOGGING A/F.

4. There are different correction factors for the ambient conditions, the most accepted is the SAE set of corrections. If the operator uses the STD factors it will show higher hp.

5. At a minimum have them print every pull in the graphical form, plus, have them print it in the tabular form. The best is to have them also give you the file. Dynojet typically allows you to download the graphing program, therefore, you can plot it to your liking off of your computer.

6. There was a comment on timing from a scan tool, be careful, scan tools are too slow to log at wot. I log timing off of an Innovate A/F logging system and it is quite different than the scanner data. On the other hand the
scanner does a fine job if the slope of the rpm curve is mostly horizontal.

7. Lastly, if anyone wants to gather data for tuning purposes the Innovate series of products is a low cost system that outputs data similar to systems that cost thousands. When I get my car (about two weeks) I will install a sytem.

You can actually road tune quite effectively with this method. On my current car I log:

rpm
a/f
fuel pressure
ignition advance
hp and torque
throttle position
intake air temp

I am adding:
coolant temp
(2) exhaust gas temp
injector pulse
(1) more a/f channel

What is interesting, most of the above are picked up right off of the oem ecm.

[jordanm]

what kind of cat back exhaust did u get 4 it and like the lambo doors

[BGOOD]

Originally Posted by Jack B Please let me inject some different thoughts on the dyno, which comes from over two hundred pulls on a dynojet: 1. Many operators will charge extra for connecting the a/f, therefore, many people don't log the a/f. That is a mistake, the reason for the dyno pull is to tune and you cannot do such without a/f. I am sure that someome will shortly have a piggyback ecm adder to adjust the a/f. 2. If the operator of the Dynojet brand uses the factory a/f set-up, it is notorius for showing lean. It could be one point plus at the low end and close to one point at the high end. To be as accurate as possible you have to tell them to remove all smoothing. Secondly, it becomes more accurate if you have them start their log as you go WOT. 3. The a/f will have further inaccuracies due to the use of a tail pipe sniffer, These devices are inherently inaccurate, plus, you are below the cats. If you are serious about tuning you have to install an in-car wide band O2 set-up. YOU DO NOT MAKE CHANGES TO A HIGH BOOST CAR WITHOUT LOGGING A/F. 4. There are different correction factors for the ambient conditions, the most accepted is the SAE set of corrections. If the operator uses the STD factors it will show higher hp. 5. At a minimum have them print every pull in the graphical form, plus, have them print it in the tabular form. The best is to have them also give you the file. Dynojet typically allows you to download the graphing program, therefore, you can plot it to your liking off of your computer. 6. There was a comment on timing from a scan tool, be careful, scan tools are too slow to log at wot. I log timing off of an Innovate A/F logging system and it is quite different than the scanner data. On the other hand the scanner does a fine job if the slope of the rpm curve is mostly horizontal. 7. Lastly, if anyone wants to gather data for tuning purposes the Innovate series of products is a low cost system that outputs data similar to systems that cost thousands. When I get my car (about two weeks) I will install a sytem. You can actually road tune quite effectively with this method. On my current car I log: rpm a/f fuel pressure ignition advance hp and torque throttle position intake air temp I am adding: coolant temp (2) exhaust gas temp injector pulse (1) more a/f channel What is interesting, most of the above are picked up right off of the oem ecm.

I just had my baby "mustang" dyno'd for the first time after my mods, I'm sorry I didn't before playing around. Could not wait for the turbo/ supercharger for my 2.4, so other mods were done. The people testing were quite impressed! The weight- torque- HP ratio statement was " 1 hell of a go cart". I dont understand the print outs myself, but looks like 202 torque, and 244 HP. I'll have to try and scan them if you wish.
QUESTION: Anybody changing out thermostats? Normal driving stays around 190 degees.
Cooler the better? Thanks, "SOL FUN"

[laserone]

Originally Posted by JT72 Someone mentioned they Dynoed a stock Sol about a month ago and got 135hp at the R/W if not mistakened. Oh Cool air Intake $378.00 if i can remember Catback $638.00 All are GMPP.

Cheapest Prices I've found:

GM CAI Cost: $315
GM Cat-Back w/ tip: $425 (~$375 cat-back, ~$50 tip)

If you need links, PM me.

[82-T/A]

I am seriously looking for a shop with a Mustand Dyno to have my Crown Vic and my Pontiac Solstice dynoed. I can't explain the power difference my Solstice has from when it was stock. I don't have many mods, I still even have my STOCK GM cat-back system. I have the GMPP cold air intake, the Clear Image Shorty Header, and the Clear Image high-flow catalytic converter.

I say this time and time again, but the difference is literally disgusting.

Just to name a few cars that I have beaten off the line:

1 - BRAND NEW BMW 330
2 - BRAND NEW Lexus LS460 (the brand new one with the 4.6 V8)
3 - An almost uncountable number of Nissan 350Zs and Ifinity G35s.


Those are some of the cars that stand out that I was sure should have beaten me.

Before I installed the high-flow cat, I had the chance to race my friend who ordered his Solstice within a week of me ordering mine. By the time I'm at ~50mph, I'm literally about 10 car lengths in front of his Solstice.

Granted, his car IS fairly loaded, and mine is rather sparse... I have the power package, AC, ABS, LSD, and MP3. That's it.


At WOT, my shift from 1st to 2nd ALWAYS results in the tires breaking loose with a nice big peel-out and a slight torque steer where the rear end tries to get ahead of everything else for a split second (yes, LSD IS working). On occasion, I'll get a slight chirp in the shift from 2nd to 3rd.

I certainly don't think that I've reached GXP performance, but I would easily say that I feel I'm probably somewhere snug in the middle between a GXP and a base Solstice.

The only thing that I don't like is that with a free-flow exhaust like I have, at certain RPMs, it sounds like a riced out Honda (when I'm at 2/3rds throttle).


Anyway, we'll see. I tried to get my car dynoed from this one place that's literally 4 miles from my house, but they turned me away the first time (something about no insurance and too much liability or some crap).

I'm going to try them again tomorrow and see what they can do for me.

Honestly though, I'm not in the mood to remove everything and put my car back to stock. We'll just have to assume / guess that my car is on-par with any other Solstice.

[nomadsole]

Best pull auto N/A 06 - 176 and 159 WHP w/the following mods:

AEM CAI
CAI hi-flo cat
Magnaflo muffler

[badge2283]

Had my 2006 stock dyno'd. The average of three pulls was 147 at the rear wheels.