These tunes cannot do anything with the transmission as of yet so I would say any
torque mgmt help would be minimal. I'm waiting for the full tuning capability of engine
and tranny in a handheld unit. Maybe, that is what chris is working on.
Not what the tuners are saying, they say it get rid of the torque limiters.
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What are these 'nanny' controls? Since my car didn't come with Mary Poppins in the passenger seat, I would consider the traction control and stability control functions to be among the other anonymous 'nanny' limiters. However, removal of those particular features would be a minus. There are a few roads around here that are quite slippery when wet.
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What are these 'nanny' controls? Since my car didn't come with Mary Poppins in the passenger seat, I would consider the traction control and stability control functions to be among the other anonymous 'nanny' limiters. However, removal of those particular features would be a minus. There are a few roads around here that are quite slippery when wet.
Interesting, but it also implies traction control and stability control would be affected.
"However, most engine computers are programmed at the factory with "granny controls" to make insure that the operator will not lose control and that the vehicle will have limited stress on it's components."
Otherwise, is this (from the link) the definitive list?
It seems that these items get mentioned as other tuning items in addition to gr/nanny controls, so it's not clear to me if some of the ECM improvements are being double book-kept. I just like to know what I'm getting when I buy something. Stage 7 hyper-nanny control removal doesn't mean much to me. What if I like the stage 3 nanny controls?
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As the tuner/technical guru for GMRoadster, maybe I can help out here.
There are a lot of good companies out there that offer tunes, including myself.
Ideally you would not want to have your PCM/ECU locked, because that requires you to send it back and have it unlocked and untuned before you can alter the files on it. Plus, it can be a long wait to get it back since it has to be shipped both ways.
What you want to have done in your tune is:
1. Disable torque management, which raises the amount of engine power that can be applied in the low RPMs. This will eliminate some of the initial hesitation, and sometimes jerking sensations you can get when letting the clutch out and giving it gas.
2. Raise rev limiters to ~7,300, but keep them intact. There is no reason to rev beyond this, and I still recommend shifting at or before 7,100 rpms. It is not a wise idea to completely remove the rev limiter in any way.
3. Raise the Top Speed Governor to what ever you want (200mph is more than adequate)
4. Remove the timing dip that sits around 4,000rpms to even it out. And raise timing across the board. Timing can be increased more in the low end, but the top end (4k+) is limited to ~2-4* advance depending on available octane.
5. Increase fan speeds above 205*F, but not before due to cooling issues. The cam advance calculations are based upon engine temp, and if it operates below projected temperatures then a lack in power and fuel economy will result. (Not true on all cars, just Ecotecs with VVT)
6. Slightly lean out top end fuel mixture
7. Lower PE Delay to above cruise rpm, don't completely remove it.
8. OPTIONAL - If you have removed the catalytic converter, then you will need to disable COT controls, and the necessary engine codes. Failing to do so will result in a super-rich Air Fuel Ratio.
Last edited by PSYKOSTEVO : 05-01-2008 at 12:06 PM.
There's no need to do anything for a manual. It's purely ...manual...that include no torque management too. That's only on autos.
Are people talking about the nanny controls? Those are easily turned off with a tune, I believe.
Moose, unfortunately there are torque limiters on the Manual cars too. They are built into the tune for the motor regardless of transmission choice. The Auto cars just have additional abuse modes and torque converter lockup tables.
Interesting, but it also implies traction control and stability control would be affected.
Stability Control and Traction Control are still enabled on my tuning. They CAN be removed, but are not recommended.
Traction Control and Stability Control are turned on and off through a tune by switching between ENABLE and DISABLE, Torque Management is a whole different table that relates the amount of torque output to engine load and RPM. Even if you turn torque management to it's maximum setting and keep traction control on, the traction control will still work.
Steve does a great job for us at GM Roadster, he has truly earned the trust of this National Club as well as the respect of it's members.
As mentioned Steve will be in Texas next week tuning Cobalts & Kappas and he'll be with us at the Regional San Diego Coastal Event in August.
We are willing to fly Steve to do group tuning if you can get 10 members together.
Martin-GMR
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As the tuner/technical guru for GMRoadster, maybe I can help out here.
There are a lot of good companies out there that offer tunes, including myself.
Ideally you would not want to have your PCM/ECU locked, because that requires you to send it back and have it unlocked and untuned before you can alter the files on it. Plus, it can be a long wait to get it back since it has to be shipped both ways.
What you want to have done in your tune is:
1. Disable torque management, which raises the amount of engine power that can be applied in the low RPMs. This will eliminate some of the initial hesitation, and sometimes jerking sensations you can get when letting the clutch out and giving it gas.
2. Raise rev limiters to ~7,300, but keep them intact. There is no reason to rev beyond this, and I still recommend shifting at or before 7,100 rpms. It is not a wise idea to completely remove the rev limiter in any way.
3. Raise the Top Speed Governor to what ever you want (200mph is more than adequate)
4. Remove the timing dip that sits around 4,000rpms to even it out. And raise timing across the board. Timing can be increased more in the low end, but the top end (4k+) is limited to ~2-4* advance depending on available octane.
5. Increase fan speeds above 205*F, but not before due to cooling issues. The cam advance calculations are based upon engine temp, and if it operates below projected temperatures then a lack in power and fuel economy will result. (Not true on all cars, just Ecotecs with VVT)
6. Slightly lean out top end fuel mixture
7. Lower PE Delay to above cruise rpm, don't completely remove it.
8. OPTIONAL - If you have removed the catalytic converter, then you will need to disable COT controls, and the necessary engine codes. Failing to do so will result in a super-rich Air Fuel Ratio.
How effective is torque mgmt. though without being able to access transmission tcm?
Also, how would I go about getting a tune from you? Thanks!
doesn't mean much to me. What if I like the stage 3 nanny controls?