Let me chime in on this a little. Mind you I have an automatic in my sky, but I have experience with aftermarket clutches in my S-series Saturn.
Every suggestion for the culprit is actually in part correct.
Most aftermarket clutch manufacturers have neither the time nor ability to meet all the requirements set forth by the community and in the cases where the planets align and the perfect clutch assembly is achievable the final product is so expensive that most consumers won't even touch it.
At this time Excedy is the only clutch manufacturer that offers a clutch that can be considered for use besides an OEM replacement.
Also any time you replace the OEM flywheel with a lighter unit and especially one of dissimilar materials you run into harmonic vibration issues.
Adding a badly designed aftermarket clutch to a billet flywheel almost always results in an increase in vibration-harshness.
I'm of the opinion that short of Another CluTch company stepping up to the plate with the real solution that people need to just stick with the OEM hardware.
However if someone has a stock flywheel, clutch assembly and bell housing I can barrow for a month or so in north Southern California, I'll be more than happy to pass it on to my contacts.
__________________
-Adam Chant
SCdyne Performance Engineering "Tune it or lose it!
The assembled engine is dynamically balanced with the flywheel in place. remove stock flywheel= lose balance of the motor.
Save the billet flywheel forwhen you tear the motor down, since the only way to have similar NVH leveles will be to balance the crank with flywheel and damper in place.
The assembled engine is dynamically balanced with the flywheel in place. remove stock flywheel= lose balance of the motor.
Save the billet flywheel forwhen you tear the motor down, since the only way to have similar NVH leveles will be to balance the crank with flywheel and damper in place.
Well, that kind of tells the story! Dang! Don't guess the billet flywheel makers see a need to disclose that information do they?
Seems I recall a parts drawing of our engine that shows an adjustable balance shaft in the front. Is that correct? If so, can the engine be re-balanced 'in the car'?
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Riken Raptor's 255/45/18
carlintexas : Well, that kind of tells the story! Dang! Don't guess the billet flywheel makers see a need to disclose that information do they?
Seems I recall a parts drawing of our engine that shows an adjustable balance shaft in the front. Is that correct? If so, can the engine be re-balanced 'in the car'?
My service manual says:
Quote:
Important: Do not orientate the flywheel to the crankshaft. It is balanced separately from the engine.
The balance shaft does not address balance issues with the crank/flywheel. It counteracts the vibrations inherent in a 4-cylinder engine that are caused by the movement of the pistons.
__________________
John
Lexington, KY
Sky VIN 00252
5-Sp Manual
Midnight Blue
I eneded up going with clutchmasters stage 3 kevlar clutch and a spec flywheel instead of the fidanza flywheel. Amcco is doing the work for 700 bucks. Dealer wanted 1300 for the job.
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party with everyone. Some of you owe me a beer.
Clutch engages immediately. I just hit the breakend period, so I'm ready for some abuse.
The vibration is the worst thing ever. I hate it. Absolutely hate it. You can hear it. What the hell is causing it? I feel like installing the stock flywheel to see if thats the problem. Now I see what are you guys were talking about. I was thinking of adding some extreme dynomat to quiet it down. Seems like cruising at 50 in 5th gear really brings it in.
We got to solve this clutch problem guys. Someone said that the colbalt and solstice clutches are just a little off and that the manufacturers are selling us the colbalt clutches.
Any truth to this?
2008 show sponsors: Team Solstice 2008, Tillett, Wind Restrictor, Werks, Aspis, Norm's Fiberglass, DDM, AfterShock, Universal Studios, Cardomain, Easystreet AirLift, Alpine, Parkerracing, Madmods-Motorsports, Scap. To be a sponsor, just pm me.
See madmods in the upcoming Fast & Furious 4.
2009 Colorado Nationals attendee! I will be there and want to
party with everyone. Some of you owe me a beer.
The vibration is the worst thing ever. I hate it. Absolutely hate it. You can hear it. What the hell is causing it? I feel like installing the stock flywheel to see if thats the problem. Now I see what are you guys were talking about. I was thinking of adding some extreme dynomat to quiet it down. Seems like cruising at 50 in 5th gear really brings it in.
I've been putting up with the vibration for 1 1/2 years now. Good thing I don't drive it much! I've been waiting for Randy @ DDM to do the Spec install on his car to see if he can figure out a fix. When I get my car back (at Lexington) I'm having the stock flywheel put back on!
__________________ TEAM SOLSTICE 2008
NASSOA(tm) Founding Member #2 1st 1K #781 DDM Custom Turbo System DDM Pro-Beam, A-Pillar Pod, PLX gauges
Starlight red I/C pipes and coil cover
GReddy Profec B Boost Controller, HKS BOV
3" Magnaflow cat-free
Werks radiator / Precision billet grilles
Norms vented fenders / GXP Spoiler
Riken Raptor's 255/45/18
I letf this message on your other post (CF drive shaft) and wanted to share in this thread:
This is an update from one of my previous report:
"I have tried a Spec 2+ and now an Exedy clutch, both with the stock flywheel and both ring like hell, so my opinion is: by introducing a different mu slip curve (friction properties), we create a "squwak" like condition where the driveline starts ringing. The variables to attenuate this could be damping and/or torsional stiffness and/or rotational inertia change. I would have thought going to a lighter flywheel should have helped this, but we have members that tried the lighter flywheel with no success...so the solution could be in the damping and/or the torsional stiffness. It would be interesting to try a CF drive shaft, CF is going to increase stiffness..."
The ringing I am talking about occurs in WOT condition when in higher gears, meaning when the engine generates a lot of torque in a higher gear. This ringing is attenuated if I do a WOT in a shorter gear, the acceleration are quicker and the engine goes through the torque peak much faster...if that makes any sense....
I do also get the vibration that Carl described when you let off the gas and coast down, but to me that sounds more like a whine, and I attribute this to the diff.
So you can't blame the flywheel as I have the stock one ( and others have tried lighter ones with no success) and both aftermarket clutches I have tried vibrate like hell....
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmods
Driving impressions:
Clutch engages immediately. I just hit the breakend period, so I'm ready for some abuse.
The vibration is the worst thing ever. I hate it. Absolutely hate it. You can hear it. What the hell is causing it? I feel like installing the stock flywheel to see if thats the problem. Now I see what are you guys were talking about. I was thinking of adding some extreme dynomat to quiet it down. Seems like cruising at 50 in 5th gear really brings it in.
We got to solve this clutch problem guys. Someone said that the colbalt and solstice clutches are just a little off and that the manufacturers are selling us the colbalt clutches.
Any truth to this?
Id love to try building a twin disc for our cars using two factory organic rags and the factory pressure plate.
The twin disc from Mcloed in my corvette uses the stock valeo pressure plate and Kevlar/organic (marcelsprung) rags. The Flywheel/floater is the only truly custom piece.
One thing I'll say though, without the factory flywheel's twin mass floating system it sounds like a box of rocks in the trans @ idle.
