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Old 05-01-2008, 11:08 AM
   PLX Wideband O2 Sensor install....
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ottawa
I'm thinking of installing an O2 sensor, can someone tell me if the bung for the sensor can be installed after the CAT.....I had a sensor bung installed but it was suggested that it be after the CAT but I have read elsewhere that it should be before it.

Could someone confirm which location it should be in ?

Thanks a bunch....
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Old 05-01-2008, 12:21 PM
  
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My PLX wideband is installed after the cat.
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Old 05-01-2008, 12:54 PM
  
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Awesome Critterman......Thanks bud !
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:27 PM
  
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Critterman were did you mount the sensor boxes..I have mine but can't come up with a good localion...and Dave is off playing with Minnie's for the week end....seal9
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Old 05-01-2008, 03:49 PM
  
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Originally Posted by seal9 View Post
Critterman were did you mount the sensor boxes..I have mine but can't come up with a good localion...and Dave is off playing with Minnie's for the week end....seal9

I'm still around...geeeezzz.


where do you want to mont the guage face....A-pillar?
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Old 05-01-2008, 03:54 PM
  
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Hi Randy Didn't they take you...sorry you had to stay and take care of me.. I have your Pillar pod ordered.....and I was going to start to install the boxes...but I have not found a good place....help Seal9
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Old 05-02-2008, 07:54 AM
  
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Dave and Randy installed my gauges while they did the upgrade. They are somewhere in the right footwell above the fuse box. I believe they also wrapped them in foam. I will have to find them when my permanant a pillar gets to me as I will have to disconnect the wireing there to put the gauges in the new pillar. Shame they don't have a quick disconnect gauge, it would be a lot quicker.
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dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:53 AM
  
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Thanks I didn't see any way to bolt them down...it looks like they should Piggie back but I don't want to take the sensor apart to see if they do slide together.....seal9
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:10 PM
  
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LC-1 WB02:
I installed mine in the stock O2 bung and used the simulated O2 signal for the NB02.
Casper's has an O2 extension cable that comes with a male and female connector for the O2 sensor you can purchase to piggy back your power with.

- Splice into Casper's harness (instead of the OEM harness or O2 cables) to get the (D) 12V+ switched power and (C) ground lines for the WB02 controller.
- Leave the stock O2 connected also, but zip tied off somewhere to prevent DTCs.
- Run the simulated NB02 signal line and the (B) OEM NB02 signal to a rocker switch and out to the ECU
- After the key is on, but before the car is started switch the rocker to simulated.
- When the engine is turned off switch back to OEM NB02 signal.

A = TAN = Lo O2 signal -
B = PUR = Hi O2 Signal +
C = GRY = Heater Li (ground)
D = BLK = Heater Hi (12V+)

The reason for this is that the ECU does a Heater circuit and Sensor circuit test on start-up and if either fails it will cause a DTC. One requires a specific amp load (more than just the PLX or LC-1 pulls) and the other is a resistance check.

You can also satisfy both circuits with resistors and capacitors to eliminate the the OEM sensor all together, but it's a little complex.
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Old 05-03-2008, 12:14 AM
  
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I installed mine on the downpipe. The other bung is for the stock 02 sensor.
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:53 AM
  
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Thanks All...I have a bung in place....I was hoping there was a mount plate for the Sensors but I guess not...I will have to make one that mounts the sensor units in a organize way...Seal9
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:33 AM
  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scdyne View Post
LC-1 WB02:
I installed mine in the stock O2 bung and used the simulated O2 signal for the NB02.
Casper's has an O2 extension cable that comes with a male and female connector for the O2 sensor you can purchase to piggy back your power with.

- Splice into Casper's harness (instead of the OEM harness or O2 cables) to get the (D) 12V+ switched power and (C) ground lines for the WB02 controller.
- Leave the stock O2 connected also, but zip tied off somewhere to prevent DTCs.
- Run the simulated NB02 signal line and the (B) OEM NB02 signal to a rocker switch and out to the ECU
- After the key is on, but before the car is started switch the rocker to simulated.
- When the engine is turned off switch back to OEM NB02 signal.

A = TAN = Lo O2 signal -
B = PUR = Hi O2 Signal +
C = GRY = Heater Li (ground)
D = BLK = Heater Hi (12V+)

The reason for this is that the ECU does a Heater circuit and Sensor circuit test on start-up and if either fails it will cause a DTC. One requires a specific amp load (more than just the PLX or LC-1 pulls) and the other is a resistance check.

You can also satisfy both circuits with resistors and capacitors to eliminate the the OEM sensor all together, but it's a little complex.

Great reading Adam. The mods should sticky the wiring diagram.
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Old 05-04-2008, 12:08 PM
  
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Do I need a PLX100 wideband afr?

Hummmmm....., I ask myself - what would Randy do?
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:39 PM
  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlintexas View Post
Do I need a PLX100 wideband afr?

Hummmmm....., I ask myself - what would Randy do?


If you don't need all the fancy adjustable displays, you can go with PLX5 digital display unit.
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Deposit (1100) - 9/29/05, 1101/1102 - 2 Feb 06, 2500 - 7 Feb 06, 3000 - 8 Feb 06, 3100 - 13 Feb 06, 3300 - 13 Feb 06, 3400 - 14 Feb 06, 3800 - 24 Feb 06 (112544), 4000 - 24 Feb 06, 4150 - 24 Feb 06
dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
NOT WAITING ANY MORE!
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Old 05-05-2008, 03:10 PM
  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmods View Post
Great reading Adam. The mods should sticky the wiring diagram.

Let me verify this 100% today.. I just saw my first DTC in months related to the Emissions system and I want to make sure that you don't need to do an O2 resistance recal for my wiring procedure to work.
Also the power for the LC-1 is D+ and A- not D and C if the OEM O2 sensor is installed.
If the OEM O2 is installed then D is + as is C since it's just a current line through the heater.
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