The MAF sensor is the sensor that gets screwed in and sits in the tubing. The MAP sensor is the one that snaps into place just above the intake manifold. The MAP sensor if not seated right will cause erroneous throttle input due to air escaping throught the hole that sensor sits in. Are you sure you checked the MAP sensor?
Ok, i did check the MAP sensor this morning as well. re-seated it. Went to the autostore and read codes for the CEL. P0300 is what it said. Cleared code...waiting on parts still from DDM.
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"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
Problem has moved down to 2500 RPM range and up in all gears if i stomp on the gas. I'm beginning to think it may be my CAT. Also, i did notice what looked like oil on the spark plug threads when i changed them out, but no accumulation on the electrodes. I bought some MAF sensor cleaner today to clean the MAF tomorrow morning. I dont think it's a spark plug or fuel injector problem. Still waiting on my new MAF sensor tube from DDM to replace the one that has my MAF sensor too close to the intercooler.
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"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
Please stop telling me more "stuff" I should do to make my Stage II SC Sky faster. Now I "need" a hi flow cat. HA!
Unfortunately my next DDMWorks upgrade will not give me more power, but will keep my car moving forward..as in a new CLUTCH. All my jack rabbit starts must be too cruel to my clutch. If I ride or let my clutch out too slow when taking off quickly it usually slips and soon my cabin is filled with that familiar burn smell. If I let it out faster I spin tires....not that it's really a problem.
New clutch is a good thing it will get you ready for Stage III . While you have it up in the air, might asw well put the high flow cat on too. Another step getting ready for Stage III
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BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
DDM stage III w/custom CAI
probeam, backbone, tower strut, Exedy Stage II clutch
JPM custom dash, center console, door inserts
Solo SQR2 with Norm's center defused panel
FucuzTech Tri-Y header and high flow cat DDM Stage III Upgrade here
Decided to push the car really hard on the ride home from work. Almost instantly, it started to stumble continued to push it...CEL then...STALL! The engine died and i had to pull over to the side of the road. Waited a sec then restarted the motor. Im really beginning to think my CAT is trashed.
__________________
"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
A. Where are you located at?
B. Has a compression test been performed?
C. What do the plugs look like now?
D. What Cel did you get this time?
Decided to push the car really hard on the ride home from work. Almost instantly, it started to stumble continued to push it...CEL then...STALL! The engine died and i had to pull over to the side of the road. Waited a sec then restarted the motor. Im really beginning to think my CAT is trashed.
NEVER push your vehicle hard when you are having troubles like this. If it is a fueling or timing issue when putting the engine under heavy load could only cause worse problems.
Even if all that is wrong is that the CAT is plugged 'having a banana in the tail pipe' could in fact cause excessive valve temps which in turn could be a source of detonation and quickly destroy a motor.
I'm not saying that's the case, but until you resolve what exactly is going wrong you are best off not pushing the motor hard.
It's always easier (less $$) to fix a working motor than one that is in pieces.
I'm leaning toward something simple like a bad primary O2 sensor, MAF or intake leak.
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-Adam Chant
SCdyne Performance Engineering "Tune it or lose it!
A. Where are you located at?
B. Has a compression test been performed?
C. What do the plugs look like now?
D. What Cel did you get this time?
Decided to push the car really hard on the ride home from work. Almost instantly, it started to stumble continued to push it...CEL then...STALL! The engine died and i had to pull over to the side of the road. Waited a sec then restarted the motor. Im really beginning to think my CAT is trashed.
NEVER push your vehicle hard when you are having troubles like this. If it is a fueling or timing issue when putting the engine under heavy load could only cause worse problems.
Even if all that is wrong is that the CAT is plugged 'having a banana in the tail pipe' could in fact cause excessive valve temps which in turn could be a source of detonation and quickly destroy a motor.
I'm not saying that's the case, but until you resolve what exactly is going wrong you are best off not pushing the motor hard.
It's always easier (less $$) to fix a working motor than one that is in pieces.
I'm leaning toward something simple like a bad primary O2 sensor, MAF or intake leak.
A. Kingsland, GA (on a job site)
B. No
C. I haven't pulled them out since i stalled the motor, but last i checked they looked no worse than regular wear. The car runs fine under normal driving, just when i try "spirited" driving does it have issues.
D. It was on solid when i began to push, then the engine started to stumble CEL started flashing then POOF, stalled out. On the way into work today, the light was out and remained out for the whole drive.
I realize pushing the car under its current problems could be bad. I chose to do it to help diagnose the problem. The one thing i have learned in all my years of being a technician is sometimes you've got to break **** first to fix it (although more expensive sometimes). I did order DDMs high flow CAT today as both Dave, Randy, and I think since the problem has been gradually getting worse and all the other symptoms, that the stock CAT has been the culprit. RickyD over on the Sky site just had his stock CAT crap out on him on 6.1.09.
__________________
"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
Got my high flow CAT today, installed CAT and new spark plugs. Definitely noticed oil on the old spark plugs. Car runs like crap. Sounds fine at idle, but as soon as you press the gas it sounds horrible. Then, when it gets up to 2500 RPMs or so CEL starts flashing. Last ditch effort is i took out the MAF sensor again and cleaned it. Waiting 1 hour before reinstalling the MAF sensor and reconnecting the battery. Also, a few of my coworkers said they noticed blue smoke when i drove off a couple days ago. There were metal flakes (they looked like glitter) inside the stock CAT when i removed it, so i thought for sure i had the problem licked. What next?
__________________
"Amelia"
'07 - 2.4L Sunburst Yellow
DDM Stage II S/C
RPi GT Exhaust
BlackCat Custom Gauges
VDi doors
Black calipers
Spoiler
Tinted Windows
Stubby "B" Antenna
Lil Chromies
Check your MAP sensor. Not your MAF sensor. Its a tricky sensor, and it loves to pop out. This might be your problem. Do n ot confuse it with the maf sensor. Take it out, and put it back in and seat it. Put some silicone on the outside clip.
DDM uses. do you guys switch to a 2-bar map?
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Fast & Furious 4 solstice-500HP 2.4:
DDM uses a 2 bar sensor. If you are smoking and have oil on the plugs it sounds like you have some blow by.
__________________
BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
DDM stage III w/custom CAI
probeam, backbone, tower strut, Exedy Stage II clutch
JPM custom dash, center console, door inserts
Solo SQR2 with Norm's center defused panel
FucuzTech Tri-Y header and high flow cat DDM Stage III Upgrade here
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