Forced to Mobil 1? - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 01:47 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBlair View Post
whatever you do, don't go from synthetic to dino back to synthetic, as a rule of thumb. Dino oil can swell seals. Not sure if this was a consideration or design issue when the cars were made, but in general, don't go dino to synthetic.
I did, with the 2.4s in my NA Sky and my Equinox. I have not had problems with either one.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 03:17 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: at the snow white beaches of north west florida...or in the shop, but never on the couch. possibly playing pool.or eating
Posts: 247
back and forth will no swell the seals unless you add some snake oil that does it. seals should last longer with syn oil,some seals are made to work with syn oil . but old dino seals may be hard and seal dino but not seal syn due to it being oh so thin&smaller tiny things in it.....and syn flows better....for better or worse it flows. ypu can pour goose greessee in it under warranty it's still covered...we had a costomer that only used the cheepest crap walmart oil back in the 90's.after atleast 4 new engines posiably more under warranty he was no longer under warranty and used name brand oil and never had any issues,...boy were we and the manufacture happy it was out of warranty. ( V6 yamaha outboards). the oil met all the specs but was garbage. I usualy use a lessor price oil for breakin , I also use the proper breakin additivs. and I have atleast 5 oil& filter changes on my new engines withen the first week of life to keep the oil clean of debris&get the additivs out of the system..I have never had any oil issues. oil filters clog quickley and then they just bypass the unfiltered oil straight to the bearings. massive amount of debris are created breaking in a new engine, it's normal.( not to be confuzed with a engine eating it's self alive) the debris are microscopic, but they are there none the less and are abrasive. breaking lubes can clog a filter quickley too.( not so bad with roller cams but flat tappet cams require alube that will totaly clog the filter in just over a hour....possiably less depending on other factors.
marksbug is offline  
post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 125
Thanks for all the input on this subject. Seems like it's all over the grid, but it's good to hear different opinions and it seams there are options if someone is in a pinch.
SanDiegoGXP is offline  
post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:00 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 1,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
I did, with the 2.4s in my NA Sky and my Equinox. I have not had problems with either one.
Not sure what your intent here is John, but I doubt it was to just update me on your progress so far.

I used terms like "as a rule of thumb" and "in general". I also said "Not sure if this was a consideration or design issue when the cars were made".

I am very happy to learn you have had no problems. This does not negate my statements about dino oil swelling seals.

Driving and working on a Sly 2008 Solstice GXP 5spd 260/260, and the worst-built 2012 LS3 Camaro 1SS to escape from Oshawa.

Gone but not forgotten:
2007 Solstice GXP 5 speed 290/340

Stored and needing to part ways with a 1970 Skylark Custom convertible I have owned since 1989 and turned into a GS455 clone. 462 with 7/8 primary headers, adjustable roller rockers, TA Performance Stage 1 aluminum heads, auto, Chevy 12 bolt, 3.31:1. Sadly a project car now but a driver from '89 to '06.
ChrisBlair is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:04 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBlair View Post
Not sure what your intent here is John, .........
My intent was to suggest that in my opinion your dire warning is not particularly applicable to most people, especially the way you worded it.

Warnings against using synthetic in cars applies pretty much exclusively to those built before the turn of the century, or to synthetic oil produced in the same era.

Since the '90s engine seals are made from better materials, and the composition of the synthetics has fewer esters and other aggressive components.

Yes, if you have a high-mileage pre-2000 car and a case of vintage Mobile-! hanging around, you probably should not introduce the two to each other.
But if you want to start putting some fresh-off-the-shelf Castrol Syntec in your 2007 Solstice, I think you can do that without concern.

As far as that goes, the problem never was that mineral oil caused seals to swell, it was that early synthetics would attack already worn seals and that it would flow through places that the stickier mineral oil wouldn't, like worn seals. I have actually not seen any professional advice against putting synthetic into an older high-mileage engine as long as it has been well maintained, and Castrol makes an oil for just that purpose.

Agree or disagree, I'm OK either way, and I would really hope that someone concerned about the topic would search for information somewhere other than here.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:25 PM
Member
 
jwvess00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 563
Hello,

If you are concerned, do a used oil analysis (I've used Oil Analyzers and have been happy with their service, but there are others out there).

In my 2006, I've been running Valvoline synthetic 5W30 for almost 50k miles (4000 miles per change, or at least yearly), and so far it's fine. I haven't bothered to do a UOA on it, and at 90k on the clock, I probably won't bother.

Jay Vessels
2006 Solstice, Mysterious 5-speed
Lexington, KY
jwvess00 is offline  
post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 02:38 PM
Member
 
midwestmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 39
In the 60's and 70's, recommended oil change intervals averaged 5,000 miles, shorter under high demand conditions, longer in light ones. That was with dirtier running engines and dino oils. As a race car enthusiast and owner, I've done many engine teardowns just because one, I was curious and two, I could. It was fun for me.

I saw no difference in engine wear between my race car engine or my daily drivers. Sludge was non-existent with castings so perfectly clean, you could read every internal marking as new. Even with several hundred, hard 1/4 mile runs under its belt, the factory crosshatching in my modified race engine was still clearly evident in the cylinder walls. No scoring was present. Admittedly, the car was fueled with racing grade Sunoco gasoline and not alcohol or nitro but was still raced very competitively, typically winning both in and out of class events. Point is, my redline was 6k rpm with a Holley carbed, big block V8 and while we do have higher revving 4 and 6 cylinder engines today, they're not that much higher. Few DD cars ever see above 7k rpm and then only occasionally, if at all. With turbos, that's another situation entirely, however, and I'd recommend the best protection you can get on all fronts.

IMO opinion, 3,000 mile oil change recommendations have consistently and deliberately been lowered over the decades, more to the benefit of dealer service departments than any genuine concern for vehicle owners. It's marketing hype that's become accepted lore just to keep their service departments well oiled (pun intended) but is complete and unjustified overkill. With cleaner burning fuels, computer controlled, fuel injected engines, improved air/oil/fuel filtration and 100% synthetic lubricants, I still change my oil only every 5,000 miles. If I occasionally slip and let it go to 6,000 or even 7,000 miles, I know there's still plenty of headroom to not lose any sleep over.

In 100,000 miles of driving, every 5,000 miles represents only 20 total oil changes compared to 33.3 changes at every 3,000 miles. (I'm waiting for 2,000 mile oil changes to become the accepted folly.) Not a lot of money difference overall, but you can waste your money anyway you choose and even pat yourself on the back for being a conscientious, devoted car owner. For myself, I choose to put it elsewhere than in the oil companies pockets, especially when based upon fiction and not fact.

If an oil meets a specific, certified rating, especially with synthetic oil, then the protection grade is the same. Period. You can buy into the hype of this or that additive but the rating is the determinate factor in comparison and manufacturer warranty. As to a specific brand, the manufacturer can only recommend it, not require it. And you can believe the brand pays very well for that recommendation.

And I'd be willing to bet a teardown on any of my engines would show just as clean with same normal wear as anybody who changes their oil every 3,000 miles or sooner. Again, just my experience and opinion. Yours may vary.
RMarion likes this.

Last edited by midwestmike; 06-21-2019 at 02:43 PM.
midwestmike is offline  
post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 04:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,386
My NA Sky was my first vehicle equipped with the OLMS, so I decided to see what happened if I trusted it. The first oil change was indicated (10% life remaining) at around 6600 miles. I sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis and was told that the oil was still protecting the engine, there were no traces of wear, and the additives were approximately 90% depleted. This was with conventional oil. It was at, I think, 30k miles or so that i switched to synthetic, and continued to follow the OLM. The next oil change was at 9k miles, also with 10% life remaining. The analysis for that sample was almost the same as the first, oil still protecting the engine, no signs of wear.

So yes, I agree that recommended oil change intervals are wastefully short, especially with closed-loop control.

The unfortunate end to this story is that I haven't been able to drive either of the cars as much as I would like, and am currently changing oil in them annually instead of by mileage.
RMarion likes this.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 08:20 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: at the snow white beaches of north west florida...or in the shop, but never on the couch. possibly playing pool.or eating
Posts: 247
if you need help driving your cars john Ill be happy to drive yours for you....
marksbug is offline  
post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:41 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by marksbug View Post
if you need help driving your cars john Ill be happy to drive yours for you....
As much as I appreciate the offer ......
marksbug likes this.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:47 PM
Member
 
Jeff081179's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 14
I changed the oil in mine today. BTW, I'm not sure of the cartridge filter. I've never seen one much less used one. But anyway, my wife's Cruze cost 35 bucks to change. Mine..... $65. I was shocked.
I use Mobile Synthetic in all my cars. It's the 15000 mile oil I change every 5000. But I have to admit. It was fairly easy to change.
Thank you all for the free flow of information and opinions. I've been learning alot and and am confused a lot.
Read this every day for any more tid bits if information that's crosses my path.
Jeff081179 is online now  
post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 01:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: In SoCal where the smog meets the fog
Posts: 607
Royal Purple here...
SkyPilot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac Solstice Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome