Seafoam? - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #31 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustKelly View Post
A lot of Seafoam fanatics like to spray the magic elixir into their intake with the hope of cleaning their valves, MAP/MAF sensor, whatever. On a turbocharged Direct Injected vehicle, you're spraying a flammable substance into the cold side of an air pump designed to pump air only. The bearings and seals can be damaged from spraying in solvents. This can also cause the hot side of the turbocharger (turbine) to become damaged as well. The solvents being ingested on top of standard measured amounts of fuel via the injectors, can cause hot spots in the hot side of the turbine, causing shaft seal failure.

As Ghost pointed out, adding solvents to fuel could damage components like the High Pressure Fuel pump or special fuel injectors used by our cars. The solvent type and viscosity may not be compatible with parts of DI engines. One thing I've witnessed first hand via my neighbor, who was a Seafoam Evangelist, was the premature demise of his catalytic converter. Catalytic converters which are already past half their lives, can be ruined by trying to clean up unburned hydrocarbons from solvents like Seafoam, it was never designed to process.
your points are well made, and may be valid, or not...

how about making a slight left turn; is Marvel Mystery Oil bad too? "IF" it has any lubricity, could it be sprayed ahead of the turbo? I concede that nothing known at the moment is going to clean the gunk off the valves, and therefore there is no reason to introduce MMO into the intake; BUT it begs the question: is MMO an oil or a solvent, and will it harm a turbo (or catalytic converter)???





Bill
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post #32 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf246 View Post
your points are well made, and may be valid, or not...

how about making a slight left turn; is Marvel Mystery Oil bad too? "IF" it has any lubricity, could it be sprayed ahead of the turbo? I concede that nothing known at the moment is going to clean the gunk off the valves, and therefore there is no reason to introduce MMO into the intake; BUT it begs the question: is MMO an oil or a solvent, and will it harm a turbo (or catalytic converter)???





Bill
That isn't much of a turn. As I mentioned in my first quoted paragraph: Adding volatile solvents of any brand to the intake of a turbocharged Direct Injected engine, can cause damage to the turbocharger. The turbochargers in these vehicles are not designed for fuel or solvents to be sprayed through them. It has nothing to do with the brand name, or marketing hype therein; it's because these products contain naphtha, oils, or other petroleum distillates that combust, or are incompatible with seals or bearings in a turbine that's spinning 30,000 RPM.

If you are concerned about carbon build-up behind the valves of a DI engine, about the only reliable way to clean them is by removing the intake assembly, then carefully 'walnut blast-ing' the tops of the intake valves. As you will find in the archives of this very forum, there are examples of other Solstice/Sky owners having taken on the task of cleaning their valves using the aforementioned procedure.

The other alternative that DI engine owners have used to prevent carbon build-up on the backs of intake valves; is by removing the crankcase vent that re-ingests crankcase byproducts back into the intake system, with a 'catch can'. The can has been proven to catch a lot of the un-burned hydrocarbons and oil, rather than the byproducts coating the back of the intake valves.

Last edited by JustKelly; 07-24-2019 at 05:12 AM.
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post #33 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf246 View Post
your points are well made, and may be valid, or not...

how about making a slight left turn;
Bill
Sorry, accidentally double-posted.

Last edited by JustKelly; 07-24-2019 at 05:13 AM. Reason: Double post
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post #34 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:08 AM
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I found this composition breakdown for MMO a while back. The only place I have ever used it is in the dash-pots of my SU carburetters.

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff

John
Lexington, KY
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post #35 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
I found this composition breakdown for MMO a while back. The only place I have ever used it is in the dash-pots of my SU carburetters.

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff
thank you; sounds like good stuff for whatever the right job is...
Bill
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post #36 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
I found this composition breakdown for MMO a while back. The only place I have ever used it is in the dash-pots of my SU carburetters.


1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer
That additive is also used in urinal deodorizing blocks and mothballs (you need a lot of those to amount to much as moths are so small.....
(see, I knew a degree in chemistry would come in handy some day!).

Current fleet:
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post #37 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:27 AM
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To the OP. You might want to try searching about this topic over on the Cobaltss.net forums. The LNF guys absolutely use seafoam to clean their valves and have been using it since day one.

One guy used seafoam for every oil change up to 35,000 miles I think....Then took his pics of his valves, and they were very clean. Long story short...It absolutely cleans your valves if you feed it through a vac port. I was having misfire issues when I bought my car and I seafoamed it and it absolutely cleaned my valves to the point that I was able to take my car to the track last year and run a 13.6 at 102.

Long story short IT ABSOLUTELY WORKS! The guys on here will yell gloom and doom all day on something, but it does work. I also haven't had any issues with my turbo or a clogged injector as an fyi.

Ok....I'm readying myself for all the attacks I'm going to get now...lol...

I'm editing to add a link to the cobaltss.net thread where he checked his valves after 47k miles with seafoam every 4k. Valves are clean and no turbo issues:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...ry4-5k-284543/
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Last edited by MattM; 07-29-2019 at 10:31 AM.
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post #38 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MattM View Post
To the OP.

Ok....I'm readying myself for all the attacks I'm going to get now...lol...
You won't hear any attacks from me, after all, it's your vehicle and money. Ghost and other's here who have tried to pass along advice that were created by manufacturers. I'm confident if in the following 30,000 miles your turbocharger should fail, it will be GM's fault anyway.
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post #39 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 11:16 AM
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Nice passive aggressive there justkelly. That is an attack btw. Stop lying. Oh and...i put 3k miles on my car a year so if thhe turbo lasts another 10 years its a win for me!!! 😉
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post #40 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JustKelly View Post
You won't hear any attacks from me, I'm confident if in the following 30,000 miles your turbocharger should fail, it will be GM's fault anyway.
I use the stuff and will continue to do so because it works for me . Just like any advice thread on this forum everybody has a different opinion on what works for them . I'm really getting tired of you newbies and your smart *ss comments this forum for years was a place where people could go and enjoy some great dialog don't agree with the post so be it no need to belittle someone because you don't agree with them !
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post #41 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 05:24 PM
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I think Sting Ya just chased someone off his lawn.

2007 2.4L N/A. Stock + some pretty crap.
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post #42 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 05:33 PM
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I prefer pain de mer

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post #43 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 07:51 PM
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Right there with ya Sting.... I'm tired of all of the "wrong" advice that the newbies are giving and then trying to convince the original posters the older members have no clue what they're talking about. These guys go out and buy a car they have no clue how to repair, and in 3 days and 6 posts they're all experts and know all of the do's and don'ts. And when you draw on experience and knowledge, we (who have 8 years + and over 4000 posts on items) don't know what we're talking about.

And on a side note, most of the "Cobalt guys" didn't care if they blew their engine up at 40k. Try to find a Cobalt SS with an LNF ('08 to '10) that's in good shape. By the way, anything prior to '08 didn't have DI and was supercharged, not turbocharged...so they could clean their engines with seafoam.

Yes...GET OFF MY LAWN!!

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post #44 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rob the elder View Post
I suspect that terminal velocity for the Solstice would be lower than the exhaust gas velocity but someone can do the math
That's nice and all, but what is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?

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post #45 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 04:51 AM
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That's nice and all, but what is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?
Up to 40 MPH.

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