time for brakes... - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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time for brakes...

I need to put new brakes on my daily driver coupe with GMPP tune. About 45k miles on the car...

OEM brakes ?

must I do rotors at the same time ?
( I've read that the racing guys do... )

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post #2 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 06:21 AM
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Why not upgrade ? Hawk and EBC are just two manufactures of brake pads that come to mind as for the rotors my experience with the ones that come on newer cars is that they are throwaways . By that I mean that they are specifically manufactured thinner than the older ones to reduce weight I believe and cannot be safely turned down.Add in the fact that a lot of places that did this stopped the practice so it's tough at times to find someone who will turn down newer rotors . I have ceramic pads ,drilled and slotted rotors ,stainless steel brake lines and just did a flush with Dot 4 synthetic noticeable difference .

Last edited by Sting Ya; 10-17-2018 at 08:59 AM.
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post #3 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 06:41 AM
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You run a high risk of serious brake shudder if you throw new pads on previously bedded rotors, particularly if they are a different compound. Maybe they clean up after a while, maybe not. They certainly won't work as well for quite some time.

And if you can find somewhere that still turns rotors, it usually doesn't save you much money over just replacing them. And the vanes still look like garbage afterwards.
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post #4 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 07:13 AM
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FWIW I put Hawk HPS and HP+ staggered on my stock rotors and have had no problems. For a street car I'd just put HPS pads on and call it a day.
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post #5 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 07:31 AM
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I put Hawk pads on my car at about 25k miles. Great improvement. No issues. Unless you have visible wear on the rotors, turning is not required in my opinion or experience.

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post #6 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 07:36 AM
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I tried Hawk HPS on the summer Solstice (daily driver, stock rotors) with poor results. After a few months they got noisy, grinding for the last few car lengths before stopping. It cost several Hundred $$$ to have it fixed, and now it is happening again. I may try EBC Green but my opinion is stick with stock unless you are racing.

Full Stoptech setup (pads and rotors) on the winter Solstice are doing fine.

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Summer Solstice, Cleveland Heights OH - '09 NA Auto Mysterious Black Coupe; DDM Supercharger, MagnaFlow, DDM chassis kit, Hawk brake pads, Conti EC Sport tires on Black ASA wheels, Advent radio w/ NAV and b/u camera. Plate SOL 4 OH

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post #7 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 07:57 AM
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Interesting
Mine have been on my LS3 for 10k miles with no issues. Just greatly improved performance and feel. I wonder why you had a different experience? Different pads?

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post #8 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 08:31 AM
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Last April i had Raybestos EHT 1028H Pads put on the front while i had the brakes flushed. So far very happy with the results. They got put to the test at the 2018 NASSAM Rally on that Mondays group ride.
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post #9 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 09:23 AM
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Should also point out that if you're not one to go crawling around under your own car and do regular check-ups it's more than possible to have a rotor rust through beyond use. I got my GXP as an 11 year old car with 65,000 miles and all original brakes. The first owner didn't drive it a lot, but it was driven through salt, snow and rain and this was one of the rear rotors I removed:
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post #10 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirwm View Post
I need to put new brakes on my daily driver coupe with GMPP tune. About 45k miles on the car...

OEM brakes ?

must I do rotors at the same time ?
( I've read that the racing guys do... )
Really, 45K and you need brakes? I'm still on the OE's at 115K. You sure you need new brakes (pads only, right?)?
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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by phil1734 View Post
Should also point out that if you're not one to go crawling around under your own car and do regular check-ups it's more than possible to have a rotor rust through beyond use. I got my GXP as an 11 year old car with 65,000 miles and all original brakes. The first owner didn't drive it a lot, but it was driven through salt, snow and rain and this was one of the rear rotors I removed:
Oh my!!!!!
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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saveaux View Post
Oh my!!!!!
Yep. And the front side of the rotor looked just fine as viewed through the wheel (or even with the wheel and caliper off to do just a pad change) and it easily could have gone unnoticed.

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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyPilot View Post
Really, 45K and you need brakes? I'm still on the OE's at 115K. You sure you need new brakes (pads only, right?)?
I've never had a set of pads last more than 10k miles on a sports car.

I think one of us is doing it wrong.

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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 02:40 PM
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FWIW, I've put new pads on other cars with questionable rotors with no discernible ill effects. The pad will wear (fairly quickly) to match the rotor. It's not ideal, but replacing rotors just because you're replacing pads is a waste of money.

That said, you can get OEM rotors for cheap online. On my 'Vette, the dealer wanted $130/corner for rotors. I got OEM rotors, shipped, for $40 each.

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'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 03:40 PM
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I have 103k miles on an NA and 74k miles on a RL, both with the original pads, and I am having too much fun to be doing anything wrong.

Since brakes only slow you down I try to use mine as little as possible.
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