So when I got my coupe it is clearly a replacement key and fob... looks like one of those generic ones you can get off eBay. The lock and unlock work well enough but it has a “trunk” button. It doesn’t do anything. Did the original have a trunk button that would pop the hatch glass?
There was a common problem with the battery retainer clip coming loose at the soldered joint inside the fob. I would guess that since your fob does work for the doors, the problem is probably with the car.
Great info... thanks. The glove box button works fine so I’ll pull apart the fob and see if it looks like there is any problems. Unfortunately yes just the one set of keys for the car. I’d like to get another but I’m not sure what the process is. Does it have to go to a GM dealer to get programmed?
Unfortunately yes just the one set of keys for the car. I’d like to get another but I’m not sure what the process is. Does it have to go to a GM dealer to get programmed?
You only need to go to the dealer (or buy a programmer) for the remote fob. Additional keys you can do yourself easily - as long as you have at least one working key. Just get a GM-compatible key blank from a hardware store (or Home depot, etc) and get it cut to match your existing key. Then there are simple programming steps to program the anti-theft chip that can be found in your owners manual. (or: https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/how-program-solstice-remote-keyless-entry-55343/#post832194)
The key is easy. You can get one cut just about anywhere, just make sure that the blank includes the Passkey chip. You can teach it to the car yourself using your existing key .
The fob is not quite as easy since it requires a separate programmer. Dormant sells one that is good for several reprogramming sessions or you can get it done by a dealer or anyone with a Tech2 or equivalent scanner.
Many of us have them, so you may be near someone who would do it for you.
Just to take this a step further when I use the remote unlock it peeps the horn. Is this normal? I know they peep when you lock them but I’ve never had one do it with the unlock. I’ll check on the recall.
Horn chirps for locking and unlocking are selectable. If you have an owner's manual the instructions are there.
If you don't have a manual you can download one at mygm.com
I keep the extra key in my wallet John & i have done this by putting my keys on the passenger seat while grabbing my jacket off the passenger seat. My own fault of course. I have AAA so i called them to unlock the car.
Took the fob apart and as you all suspected the leads had come unsoldered. Fixed them which made the panick button work but the trunk release still didn’t work. So I tried manually jumping it on the circuit board and voila... pop went the back glass. So I’m guessing the pad on the rubber insert is the issue. I cleaned it but nothing. I’m thinking maybe some conductive ink on the pad???? Any other ideas?
You can get whole shells (incl new membrane) on eBay for less than $5
If DIY, conductive ink is not a good idea. Just cut or punch a small circle out of Aluminum AC Duct tape if you have any, and stick on the underside of the button. Else use aluminum foil and a dab of glue.
Yes. conductive ink will probably work. I used the conductive paint used to repair rear window defrosters in a tv remote. I have read where others have even glued aluminum foil to the rubber button. Many times just cleaning the rubber button and the circuit board contacts with a pencil eraser will work.
I couldn’t set the aluminum to stick to the back of the pad so I just used a graphite pencil and coloured the pad. It worked. Not sure for how long but I’ll take it for now.
When I got my coupe, I got the 2 OEM fobs neither worked. Fortunately one only needed a battery.
The other one I soldered the battery clip back onto the guts and put a new battery in. Only the rear glass button worked. So I cleaned the rubber part of the case it didn't help. I swapped the guts and it all worked fine. So I ordered a case on-line now everything works fine.
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