Check Engine - P0128 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Check Engine - P0128

Hey guys,

My car is shooting a check engine light at me. I used my Actron code scanner, and it's telling me the error code is P0128. This error message states: "Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature". The best I can find on the internet suggests that my thermostat is STUCK in the open position. However, I don't think this is the case as I know the car is capable of warming up. I don't have a driver information computer, but I do know the difference between the Solstice when it's just started, and when it's warmed up.

I'm wondering if MAYBE the problem is that my car is just running too cool because of everything I've done to it? We've had temperatures (like tonight) in the 50s. It's pretty friggin cold here in South Florida right now (I mean, for us at least). That, plus the fact that I have a cold-air intake, a CERAMIC coated exhuast header (which basically almost completely eliminated ANY underhood temperatures). I mean, with the clear image shorty header, the temperature under the car (when warmed up) is basically the same temperature outside. Plus, I also have the stainless steel hi-flow cat.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it possible for the car to be running too cool simply because of my modifications, the temperature outside, AND because I have the heat on FULL-BLAST (and not recirculate) in 50 degree weather? Oh yeah, I also put in a bottle of Water Wetter last year! heheh...


Let me know if this sounds logical, and I won't worry about it.

I really hate not having a temperature gauge...

Todd,
People for the Ethical Treatment of Automobiles
@ http://www.PETACar.ORG
-------------------------------------------
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- GM Cold Air Intake
- Clear Image Hi-Flow Cat
- Clear Image Shorty Header


2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6 (3.2) 5-Speed
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82-T/A View Post
Hey guys,

My car is shooting a check engine light at me. I used my Actron code scanner, and it's telling me the error code is P0128. This error message states: "Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature". The best I can find on the internet suggests that my thermostat is STUCK in the open position. However, I don't think this is the case as I know the car is capable of warming up. I don't have a driver information computer, but I do know the difference between the Solstice when it's just started, and when it's warmed up.

I'm wondering if MAYBE the problem is that my car is just running too cool because of everything I've done to it? We've had temperatures (like tonight) in the 50s. It's pretty friggin cold here in South Florida right now (I mean, for us at least). That, plus the fact that I have a cold-air intake, a CERAMIC coated exhuast header (which basically almost completely eliminated ANY underhood temperatures). I mean, with the clear image shorty header, the temperature under the car (when warmed up) is basically the same temperature outside. Plus, I also have the stainless steel hi-flow cat.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it possible for the car to be running too cool simply because of my modifications, the temperature outside, AND because I have the heat on FULL-BLAST (and not recirculate) in 50 degree weather? Oh yeah, I also put in a bottle of Water Wetter last year! heheh...


Let me know if this sounds logical, and I won't worry about it.

I really hate not having a temperature gauge...
T/A - I am in S. Florida too and have almost the same Mods as you do. Mine hasn't thrown a code like that... What does your DIC say the temp is running at?

SG

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 05:57 AM
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Sounds like the T-stat is stuck,your engine should run at the same temp.Nothing you've done will change that by a degree or 2.Changes you've done just affect engine bay temp.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrtoycrazy View Post
Sounds like the T-stat is stuck,your engine should run at the same temp.Nothing you've done will change that by a degree or 2.Changes you've done just affect engine bay temp.
P0128 almost always means the thermostat is stuck open. They should just change the code description to "thermostat stuck open." You can confirm the diagnosis if it seems to take forever for the heater to get warm. Also, the coolant temperature is available from the DIC.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 08:33 AM
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VIN2020 gets this same code. Saw him yesterday and we discussed the stuck thermostat issue. I believe that's it!

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 09:07 AM
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You can always use the age old hot hose cold hose method for checking. Start the engine cold, then if the thermostatis is working correctly, one hose from the radiatior will heat up while the other one stays cold. Then when the engine reaches operating temp, the thermostat will open and the other hose will get hot too. Not rocket science, but it works. If you find that both hoses heat up at the same time, your stuck open, and it is a simple replacement, although a bit messy. Once you have the thermostat out, you can verify its operation with the old boiling water on the stove routine.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 12:00 PM
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First I have been getting the same code too.

Let me guess when you drove it in the 50s F, your top was down and you had the heater on full blast?

Just wondering, because I do this all the time in Texas and at even colder temps.

My current theory is the cockpit heater is after thermostat as such it is more than ample to keep the engine running colder at those lower AAT.

Please let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82-T/A View Post
Hey guys,

My car is shooting a check engine light at me. I used my Actron code scanner, and it's telling me the error code is P0128. This error message states: "Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature". The best I can find on the internet suggests that my thermostat is STUCK in the open position. However, I don't think this is the case as I know the car is capable of warming up. I don't have a driver information computer, but I do know the difference between the Solstice when it's just started, and when it's warmed up.

I'm wondering if MAYBE the problem is that my car is just running too cool because of everything I've done to it? We've had temperatures (like tonight) in the 50s. It's pretty friggin cold here in South Florida right now (I mean, for us at least). That, plus the fact that I have a cold-air intake, a CERAMIC coated exhuast header (which basically almost completely eliminated ANY underhood temperatures). I mean, with the clear image shorty header, the temperature under the car (when warmed up) is basically the same temperature outside. Plus, I also have the stainless steel hi-flow cat.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it possible for the car to be running too cool simply because of my modifications, the temperature outside, AND because I have the heat on FULL-BLAST (and not recirculate) in 50 degree weather? Oh yeah, I also put in a bottle of Water Wetter last year! heheh...


Let me know if this sounds logical, and I won't worry about it.

I really hate not having a temperature gauge...

North Fort Worth Solstice #2020
Mine on: 12/10/2005 from Alan Young Dealership
Color: Deep, Steel/Sand, Hahn Turbo, and other good stuff.

Last edited by VIN2020; 03-18-2007 at 12:03 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTashis View Post
P0128 almost always means the thermostat is stuck open. They should just change the code description to "thermostat stuck open." You can confirm the diagnosis if it seems to take forever for the heater to get warm. Also, the coolant temperature is available from the DIC.

Thanks guys...

However, my Solstice is fairly bare bones. The only options I ordered were LSD, MP3/CD, ABS, and the Power Package. I don't have any buttons or controls on my steering wheel to allow me to control (or even make use of) the DIC. So... I'm out of luck if I want to check the temperature on my car.

Todd,
People for the Ethical Treatment of Automobiles
@ http://www.PETACar.ORG
-------------------------------------------
2006 Pontiac Solstice (#1267)
- GM Cold Air Intake
- Clear Image Hi-Flow Cat
- Clear Image Shorty Header


2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6 (3.2) 5-Speed
1981 EZ-GO XI875A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter (1800cc)
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 455
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIN2020 View Post
First I have been getting the same code too.

Let me guess when you drove it in the 50s F, your top was down and you had the heater on full blast?

Just wondering, because I do this all the time in Texas and at even colder temps.

My current theory is the cockpit heater is after thermostat as such it is more than ample to keep the engine running colder at those lower AAT.

Please let me know.
I do the same - as low at 40F; the heater delays the warm-up, but my engine still reaches thermostat temps in the 3-1/5 miles I travel to work, mostly surface streets.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 06:42 PM
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Do you reach highway speed in this case?

My thought if you werent, it's the highway speeds (my case) purge most of any heat that could have been built up.

Thanks for you input in advance, I'm trying to sort out the problem with out having to get to the thermostat (looks like a bear to get to).


Quote:
Originally Posted by WintR View Post
I do the same - as low at 40F; the heater delays the warm-up, but my engine still reaches thermostat temps in the 3-1/5 miles I travel to work, mostly surface streets.

North Fort Worth Solstice #2020
Mine on: 12/10/2005 from Alan Young Dealership
Color: Deep, Steel/Sand, Hahn Turbo, and other good stuff.

Last edited by VIN2020; 03-18-2007 at 07:35 PM.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIN2020 View Post
Do you reach highway speed in this case?

My thought if you werent, is the highway speeds (my case) purge most of any heat that could have been built up.

Thanks for you input in advance, I'm trying to sort out the problem with out have to get to the thermostat (looks like a bear to get to).
Do you have a DIC to display your coolant temp? If you do, it's easy to tell if the stat is working. Start the engine cold, and the temp should rise quickly to the operating temp and stabilize, in about 10 minutes, regardless of the outside temp. If the stat is open, it will take much longer, and the colder it is, the longer it takes.

If you don't have a DIC, start the engine and turn on the heater. Make sure your AC is off and the temp knob is turned all the way up. When you start to feel warm/hot air coming out of the vents, go out and feel the radiator cap. It should still feel cold (or whatever the ambient temperature is). If the stat is working properly, the heater core should get hot way before the radiator does.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:09 PM
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Good thought and input.

I have the DIC telling me it does warm up fairly quickly, but I'm thinking the second part of your input would clinch it either way.

Again great input, many thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTashis View Post
Do you have a DIC to display your coolant temp? If you do, it's easy to tell if the stat is working. Start the engine cold, and the temp should rise quickly to the operating temp and stabilize, in about 10 minutes, regardless of the outside temp. If the stat is open, it will take much longer, and the colder it is, the longer it takes.

If you don't have a DIC, start the engine and turn on the heater. Make sure your AC is off and the temp knob is turned all the way up. When you start to feel warm/hot air coming out of the vents, go out and feel the radiator cap. It should still feel cold (or whatever the ambient temperature is). If the stat is working properly, the heater core should get hot way before the radiator does.

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Mine on: 12/10/2005 from Alan Young Dealership
Color: Deep, Steel/Sand, Hahn Turbo, and other good stuff.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VIN2020 View Post
Do you reach highway speed in this case?

My thought if you werent, is the highway speeds (my case) purge most of any heat that could have been built up.

Thanks for you input in advance, I'm trying to sort out the problem with out have to get to the thermostat (looks like a bear to get to).
Yes, I do... I'm really thinking that that's what the problem is???

Todd,
People for the Ethical Treatment of Automobiles
@ http://www.PETACar.ORG
-------------------------------------------
2006 Pontiac Solstice (#1267)
- GM Cold Air Intake
- Clear Image Hi-Flow Cat
- Clear Image Shorty Header


2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6 (3.2) 5-Speed
1981 EZ-GO XI875A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter (1800cc)
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 455
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:34 PM
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82-T/A,

To your knowlege, has you cooling system ever been opened up (hoses taken off).

Because I have some slight fear that I could have introduced some sort of FOD to my cooling system.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 82-T/A View Post
Yes, I do... I'm really thinking that that's what the problem is???

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Mine on: 12/10/2005 from Alan Young Dealership
Color: Deep, Steel/Sand, Hahn Turbo, and other good stuff.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 06:48 AM
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I also get a p0128 and the temp gauge goes to ---F reading, which then makes the fans kick into high. Any thoughts?
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