Pinched top due to lost or damaged plastic tab - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #31 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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After a lot of poking around it appears that the Plan A tops did not come with the plastic clip. And that they had issues with pinching the top when the metal tab wore through the rubber forward covering. As the hinge rotates to closed the exposed metal tab pulls the top into the hinge.

One reference from Small Dealer from GM stated that a "fix" for the Plan A tops is to grind off the leading edge of the metal tab so it does not protrude and grab the top. However they cautioned to NOT use a grindwheel because the metal used will burst into flame and probably burn a hole in the top if not burn the car to the ground. So cut it off and smooth it off without heating it up. Good luck.

The real fix is they changed the design as the Plan B top which has the plastic tab to prevent the metal tab from wearing through the rubber and pinching the top.

Unfortunately the plastic tab can end up getting grabbed by the rubber seal on the top and gets broken off. Like mine did.
Which is why for either top, applying a layer of dielectric grease to the inner surface of the seal and the bottom surface of the top where it comes into contact with the rubber seal is a good idea. It helps preserve the plastic tab so it does not grab and fracture for the Plan B tops and for the Plan A tops it provides a less friction prone mating surface that will wear through the rubber and expose the metal tab which will then pinch the top which will then . . . .

So, based on what I think I might know now, lube your top where it slides at the hinge point and if you have a Plan B top, verify that the plastic tab is tight and properly aligned. For the Plan A top, check to verify that the metal tab is not protruding through the rubber coating on the forward edge yet, and lube the crap out of the area. If it is protruding, CAREFULLY file the exposed metal tab away so it is not dragging on the top and consider adding your own plastic tab. Once we get some built.

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post #32 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GeneralDodo View Post
I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
The key is to NOT lift on the top to raise it. Gently pull the leading edge of the top forward. The top will raise itself due to the design of the hinges.

Just my idea on the entire subject.

YMMV.

.



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post #33 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
Two suggestions. First is put some dielectric grease on the forward edge of the rear side of the hinge and on the bottom side of the top where the forward edge of the rear seal rotates against the bottom side of the top when the hinge rotates to the closed position.

Second is make sure that your top is tensioned correctly. There are two stops in the trunk that set the top tension. The tension needs to be tight enough to make sure the canvas cover is not so lose that it is easily pulled into the hinge point and the tension on both sides needs to be the same so the top is not free to wiggle from side to side as it goes up.

And always make sure the windows are not pressing against the seals when you put the top up or down. Either open the doors or lower them

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post #34 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 01:13 PM
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What type of lube would I use for the hinge point? Wouldn't want anything with the potential to eat away at weather seals or whatever.. *shrug*
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post #35 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveOC View Post
The key is to NOT lift on the top to raise it. Gently pull the leading edge of the top forward. The top will raise itself due to the design of the hinges.

Just my idea on the entire subject.

YMMV.

.
Hmm I'll keep that in mind for next time, thanks
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post #36 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a sample. Dielectric grease is what is needed. It is recommended to maintain rubber

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401736551&sr=8-1&keywords=dielectric+grease
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post #37 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 05:38 PM
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Here is a sample. Dielectric grease is what is needed. It is recommended to maintain rubber

Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive


It's like the ky jelly of the plastics/elastomer world. It works and doesn't have side-effects.

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post #38 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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It's like the ky jelly of the plastics/elastomer world. It works and doesn't have side-effects.
That reads like an inside joke.......

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post #39 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 12:13 AM
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Great knowledge Rob...keep us informed!!

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post #40 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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I always thought the VINS where not built in a perticular order ?
Because of the way they were issued and the mixed production, sol, sky, GT, and the Korean version and the staggered preproduction, and mulit year integration they did not come off the line sequentially, but major design changes were applied in an orderly manner so they could keep track.

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post #41 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Got a call from Dick. His supplier is generating a cad file of the clips and making a production run. They are using a milling machine to make sets out of a 4 by 8 sheet. When I get the cost will let all know. Will be done by the end of June

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post #42 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 11:10 AM
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Cool. Can the clips be used in place of the A style or only for on top of the B?

Also - did he mention what he's machining them out of?

2007 2.4L N/A. Stock + some pretty crap.
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post #43 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Cool. Can the clips be used in place of the A style or only for on top of the B?

Also - did he mention what he's machining them out of?
I believe one could use them with an A top but not having tried it yet will reserve a definitive statement. The seal on the earlier top is not tapped for the mounting screw but it could be.

He told me but not being a plastics person I do not remember. He said it would be more resistant to breaking.

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post #44 of 105 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Finally . . .
we have received the wear clips. 200 sets.

These are made of a better material and should last longer than the factory clips.

We are packaging and labeling them currently.

As soon as we get them ready to ship we will begin making them available.

We are not looking to make any money on these but more of a service to the community.

If you want a set, email me with your information and I will contact you with the final price in the next few days.

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post #45 of 105 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014, 09:48 AM
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Finally . . .
we have received the wear clips. 200 sets.

These are made of a better material and should last longer than the factory clips.

We are packaging and labeling them currently.

As soon as we get them ready to ship we will begin making them available.

We are not looking to make any money on these but more of a service to the community.

If you want a set, email me with your information and I will contact you with the final price in the next few days.
PM sent!

Many thanks!
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