I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.
I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should
However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.
Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame.
I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.
This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders
'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
Last edited by raygun; 03-03-2019 at 08:37 PM.