Solstice won't start, but has full power - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 06:58 AM
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Maybe the extra current from jumping the car bridged the short and it would start?
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 09:31 AM
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Maybe the extra current from jumping the car bridged the short and it would start?
Absolutely yes on that!

Many times it seems I have temporarily overcome an electrical problem downstream from the battery on some vehicle other simply by boosting the car. I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.

It doesn't always work and the engineer in me constantly wonders if the temporary fix is just random happenstance.

But I'm sure there is a corollary to Murphy's law here!

In any case, good luck with the repair! Let us know if it truly fixes the problem so we can all scratch our heads some more!
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 10:52 AM
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Very frustrating! Glad you found it - I had eliminated the clutch switch from your description too.

Had the same thing happen on my Fiero - no start as the switch went out. I bridged it with a bent paper clip to get going and then permanently bridged the circuit, figuring that if I was ever dumb enough to start it without putting the clutch in I deserved the dent. Ran it for the next 20 years that way.

Current fleet:
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1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 07:38 PM
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Very frustrating! Glad you found it - I had eliminated the clutch switch from your description too.

Had the same thing happen on my Fiero - no start as the switch went out. I bridged it with a bent paper clip to get going and then permanently bridged the circuit, figuring that if I was ever dumb enough to start it without putting the clutch in I deserved the dent. Ran it for the next 20 years that way.
Plus if it had ever stalled on a railroad track with a train coming you could have driven it off of the tracks with the starter motor. Seems like a safety enhancement to me.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 07:47 PM
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In the good old days some local kids managed to get a Fiat 600 about a half mile on the starter motor in first gear as a lark.
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Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:24 PM
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+Good luck to the thread starter but I don't think we have heard the last of this.

I think that dealer is full of it.

If it is the clutch switch it sure does not match any symptoms that were given.

Be sure to update us.

Larry.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 08:27 PM
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I'm also glad you got it fixed, but... jumping the car wouldn't suddenly make a bad clutch switch start working.

But, hey - if they fixed it, woohoo!

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertllr View Post
I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.
I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame.

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 03-03-2019 at 08:37 PM.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 06:03 AM
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I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame.

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
One point is that the clutch "switch" isn't a switch, it is a transducer.

The only answer I can come up with is that the weakened battery dropped the system voltage low enough that the transducer couldn't reach its calibrated value and prevented the starter from engaging. Adding the charger or boost battery eliminated the voltage drop and let the transducer function correctly.

Your comment about "accidentally fixed the real problem" also makes a lot of sense.
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John
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 06:59 AM
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Here is a link to an interesting observation, related to this discussion, about "Diagnostic Blind Spots":

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...ic-blind-spots

BTW and FWIW, I know a lot of guys/gals on this list are classic and/or performance car buffs. I recently started getting Hagerty's newsletter, and it often has informative, entertaining, and well-written articles on various car-related subjects. Some occasional nonsense and drivel, as well (and having written plenty of nonsense and drivel myself, I know it when I see it); but when it's good, it's very very good.

We now return you to your previous thread...
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 07:39 AM
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Guys and gals come on. The problem has NOT been fixed. The OP said he ordered a new switch.

STAY TUNED !!!!!!
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