Wheel stud replacement - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chiffonte View Post
So the dreaded broken wheel studs hit my track Solstice today - two of them on the same front wheel! I've got until Friday night to fix the studs.

This thread and its 2019 cousin suggest that a GM dealer will be the only place where I could possibly find the special knurled studs on short notice. Here's another question, however: in the Solstice Performance book, they take some ARP long studs and grind down an edge so that they fit in the Solstice hub.

My question is, has anyone actually tried free-hand grinding the studs to the right shape? I'm not a machinist so I'd be putting them in a vise and hitting them with a handheld grinder.

Thanks!

Dave
All you're doing is take the round head and making into a "D" shape by knocking off an edge a bit so that it clears the hub as it's inserted from the backside. Not a big issue... could be done with a handheld grinder, dremel, bench top grinder, or even a nice file without issue.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 02:56 PM
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All you're doing is take the round head and making into a "D" shape by knocking off an edge a bit so that it clears the hub as it's inserted from the backside. Not a big issue... could be done with a handheld grinder, dremel, bench top grinder, or even a nice file without issue.
As long as you don't overheat and weaken it.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:26 PM
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Just as an update, I did some more research and I've ordered the OEM studs from a dealer around me, the ARP studs from the Solstice Performance book (will likely return) and the ARP Miata studs with the flat part. I'll leave a description of what the repair was like when it's all done!
OK, two wheel studs are replaced!

I have a few observations which could be helpful for others:

-I got the OEM studs (9596978) from the local Buick dealer on 24 hours notice. Not bad, besides the price! They are just like the original ones, e.g. terrible quality.

-I didn't even try the ARP studs in the Solstice Performance Book (ARP 100-7702) because they were very similar to the Miata studs but would have required grinding.

-The Miata studs (ARP 100-7720) seem like the perfect solution! Unlike the OEM studs, they are extremely high quality. Unfortunately, they are too long to get in the hole (that's what she said) without taking the hub off of the axle. Which brings us to...

-It was quite difficult to get the old studs out and the new ones in with the dust shield in place. I removed the three 15mm hub bolts, but the shield/hub wouldn't budge, probably due to age and road salt, so I ended up taking my BFH to the shield to create some room, which worked well enough to get the OEM studs in. Next time, I guess I will get a giant 35mm axle nut head and an axle nut and just take the hubs off, then bash on the studs with the hub in a vise.

-I used a tie rod puller to get the studs out but frankly the old, rusted-on studs wouldn't budge at first without some encouragement from the BFH. I tried to be soft with in given the advice to avoid damaging the bearings.

All-in-all, besides having to return a S-ton of parts, it was pretty straightforward. 4/10 difficulty!

Dave
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:39 AM
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Thanks for sharing!!
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:49 AM
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You'd have to put some serious heat into a stud to weaken it with a grinder.

I'm not actually sure you could do it with how little material you're removing. At the rate you'd have to remove material, you'd be done well before you ever got up to those temperatures.

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:33 AM
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I watched someone get one cherry red once, so yeah, I think its possible.

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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:29 AM
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I suspect you are correct about the grinder being a bad thing to try.

At this point I've decided to stick with the OEM studs going forward, despite the ARP studs being so much better. If the car needs a hubs-off piece of maintenance then I might reconsider.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:51 AM
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I suspect you are correct about the grinder being a bad thing to try.

At this point I've decided to stick with the OEM studs going forward, despite the ARP studs being so much better. If the car needs a hubs-off piece of maintenance then I might reconsider.
The OEM studs are definitely the safest and easiest approach, but grinding a flat is a valid option as long as you use reasonable care and some common sense.

The instance that I experienced was someone using an old grinding disc that was generating more heat than grind, and then not paying attention to, or not understanding, what was happening.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:08 AM
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Yikes!

Need to drop the grit count a level or two!

2007 Solstice GXP
#3 ASP, DET and NWOR SCCA
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