What a drag - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:30 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: LaSalle, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Argenut View Post
I FIGURED IT OUT. Only took three weeks.

About a year ago I had weirdo electrical problems, took it to the dealer--there was corrosion in and on the back of the fuse panel in the passenger side. (Caused fun things like the car thinking it was stolen and shutting off without much warning--something about odd resistance causing it to think the key wasn't in the ignition...) Anyway, they were able to repair it and I went on my way.

But. Apparently they did not properly latch the under-dash trim panel. Which was maintaining pressure against the brake pedal swing arm. Which was my whole problem. Everytime I bled the brakes, the panel slipped further down, resulting in brake-lock. But since I hadn't screwed with anything in that area, I didn't think to look until I noticed that the brake lights were always on...which is an electronic switch and has nothing to do with pressure in the brake lines.

Side note: the metal in brake pads is magnesium. Didn't know that. Very distinctive white sparks this morning.

K.I.S.S. rules again...thought I was going to have to change the abs module.

So I'm curious as to what they did to your fuse panel? was it just cleaning the contacts?
Zinger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:27 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: western suburbs of Chicago
Posts: 6
Gents, since many brake experts seem to have looked at/commented on the post, I'd tack on a simple question - is it possible (WRT 2006 Solstice rear brakes) to remove&change pads without dismounting the caliper (i.e., without totaling unscrewing its 2 bracket bolts) ?
I read thru another brake-related thread here (by 'ender' I think), and i couldn't tell for sure. Other youtube videos indicate it IS possible (altho those videos weren't about the GM Kappa cars).
2seater is offline  
post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:34 PM
Member
 
raygun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,555
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to raygun
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2seater View Post
Gents, since many brake experts seem to have looked at/commented on the post, I'd tack on a simple question - is it possible (WRT 2006 Solstice rear brakes) to remove&change pads without dismounting the caliper (i.e., without totaling unscrewing its 2 bracket bolts) ?
I read thru another brake-related thread here (by 'ender' I think), and i couldn't tell for sure. Other youtube videos indicate it IS possible (altho those videos weren't about the GM Kappa cars).
No.

And, why? It's two freaking bolts.

The pads can't come out of the back of the caliper unlike some Brembos and Wilwoods. The pad can't come out of the front due to lack of sufficient clearance with the hub on the back and the center section of the rotor ("hat" if it was a two-piece rotor) on the front. You wouldn't be able to compress the pistons to get the new pads in (front), or screw the pistons in (rear).

What's the motivation here? Are the bolts rusted or otherwise immobile? If it's a tool issue, remember that you can *turn the wheel* to get better access to the fronts.

Frozen bolts are easily fixed with either PB Blaster (takes patience) or a Home Depot $40 propane torch (works REALLY well, and you get to play with actual fire).

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 05-17-2019 at 03:14 PM.
raygun is offline  
post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 08:46 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: western suburbs of Chicago
Posts: 6
My only motivation was just understanding - the (non-GM) youtube videos led me to think it was possible - so I thought maybe I was missing something when, during my recent painful attempt to disassemble the passenger rear brake, it seemed that the only way possible was to indeed dismount the caliper, which I did. And your reply confirms that. Thank you.
2seater is offline  
post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 12:10 PM
Member
 
raygun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,555
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to raygun
@2seater

What was the difficulty? For the rear brakes, the procedure is relatively straightforward.

0. Ensure parking brake is OFF. (Obviously, chock the wheels and support the car on jack stands.)
1. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on
2. Wiggle the caliper off. You may need to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper.
4. Toss your old brake pads. Keep the springs, etc. in case the new pads don't include them.
5. Twist the caliper piston back into the body. There's a special tool for this, but you can usually use a pair of needle nose pliers instead.
6. Once the piston is fully compressed, put your new pads in, wiggle it over the rotor, reattach the parking brake cable and torque down the caliper.

This really shouldn't take more than about 20-30 minutes per corner.

Did you run into rusted bolts, access issues or something else?

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 05-18-2019 at 12:12 PM.
raygun is offline  
post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 12:46 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,577
@raygun : My read from his explanation was that he watched a video about changing pads, and whatever vehicle the video was about did offer pad replacement without caliper removal. When he tried to follow that example with his car he found that he couldn't do it, and wondered if he was missing something.

My MGs and TRs had Girling brakes that worked that way. Pull one or two pins, remove the old pads, pry the pistons away from the rotor, drop in new pads, and replace the pins. Definitely spoiled me for having to use wrenches to take stuff apart.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 12:01 AM
Member
 
gwhunter12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Marsing Idaho
Posts: 175
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to gwhunter12
Why would anyone pressure their master cylinder in reverse by collapsing the calipers . Rather than opening the bleed valves and adding NEW fluid to the master cylinder as needed. Iíve heard many DIY mechanics say they always do it this way. Why?
gwhunter12 is offline  
post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 05:59 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,577
I find it to be a cleaner and easier process. Suck some of the fluid out of the master to make room, then you can compress the pistons without worrying about bleeder screws, collection bottles, etc while you are handling the caliper. When all of the pads have been replaced and the calipers are back on, open the bleeders one at a time to flush in new fluid.

To me the final result seems to be the same: new pads and new fluid, so I don't know that the process matters that much except to be whatever is easier.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 01:54 PM
Member
 
wspohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 6,439
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post

My MGs and TRs had Girling brakes that worked that way. Pull one or two pins, remove the old pads, pry the pistons away from the rotor, drop in new pads, and replace the pins. Definitely spoiled me for having to use wrenches to take stuff apart.
And my Dunlop braked MG had 'quick change' pads with a tab with a hole that you ran a wire through and pulled them out (one bolt had a retaining clip when they were in place. Along with knock off quick change wheels.

I am yet to be convinced that swinging calipers are superior to conventional calipers with a piston on each side. Any opinion?


Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

Bill in BC
wspohn is offline  
post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 02:02 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 5,577
I have seen fewer problems with the opposed-piston calipers, as it seems that the pistons are less likely to get stuck than the sliding/swinging mechanism. I once worked on a Chrysler (something) that had a stuck caliper, and the force of the brake had pushed the wheel bearing far enough out of position that the rotor was rubbing the caliper frame. The rotor and frame were both worn a very scary amount.

I am certain that the switch to single-piston calipers was purely a cost-saving move.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked
JohnWR is offline  
post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 02:02 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: western suburbs of Chicago
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
@raygun : My read from his explanation was that he watched a video about changing pads, and whatever vehicle the video was about did offer pad replacement without caliper removal. When he tried to follow that example with his car he found that he couldn't do it, and wondered if he was missing something.
JohnWR, that's right.

Raygun, to answer your question from yesterday, the pain (for me) came from never having done brake work before, the wheel being rusted onto the rotor, and the rotor being rusted onto the hub. Otherwise, I in fact followed the numbered steps you listed. The caliper bolts themselves came out pretty easily, to my surprise.
2seater is offline  
post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 02:22 PM
Member
 
wspohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 6,439
Garage
Ouch!

That is also my reading - we never had much problem with jamming pads in dual piston calipers (although a build up of dirt etc. could impair pad changes unless you cleaned it off) .

Add a pin that the single piston caliper has to rotate around or a couple of pins that they have to slide on and you just added more possibilities for something jamming.

And I agree that it was almost certainly economy that prompted that sort of caliper.

In some ways we never had it better than the Girling calipers as used on all sorts of British cars (and others - my old Lambo used a Girling system), and in alloy form (AR, BR and CR being the sizes) on all sorts of race and sports racing cars of the day.

Well, I guess modern carbon ceramic composite discs are an improvement, but the last cost for parts I saw (c. $10K) I'll pass.

Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

Bill in BC
wspohn is offline  
post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 03:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Devoking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Livin' on the edge
Posts: 3,568
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
@2seater


5. TWIST the caliper piston back into the body. There's a special tool for this, but you can usually use a pair of needle nose pliers instead.
Twist is the key word here, they are not designed to be "compressed" back into place.

Was a Pair-a-Sols!

06 Pure, 111230, delivered 2-14-06 Still going strong.
07 Pure, 113071, delivered 3-30-11 deceased 9-6-12
Devoking is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac Solstice Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MSM drag strip time RODEO Other Car Discussion 10 09-18-2006 02:08 PM
Pro Drag Racing GM Ecotech? sam8white Other Car Discussion 1 06-08-2006 09:24 PM
Mallett V8 Solstice - First Drag Strip Test TerpFan Mods - Engine/Transmission Major, including Transplants 43 11-16-2005 10:54 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome