Is this a good price? - Pontiac Solstice Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Is this a good price?

I am getting ready to close the deal on a 2007 Yellow Solstice (not GXP), Leather, Automatic, full power windows, locks, etc.. I am buying it from a friend that is the original owner and he has maintained the car meticulously. It has only 28K miles and has been garage kept in a warm climate (Florida). The car is in showroom condition with the exceptions as follows:
- Rear defroster connector is broke
- Slight scraping on the underside of the lower bumper (scraped on curbing while parking)
- Some light curb scraping on one of the rear wheels
- Tires will probably need changing in about 8-10K miles

We have negotiated a price of $10.5K.

Is this a good deal?

Thanks!
Todd_SG is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 08:09 AM
Moderator
 
rob the elder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Parker Colorado, USA, directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 15,871
Welcome to the forum.

Tires have a 5 year life. If the tires on the car are factory then they should be replaced. Take that into consideration.

You need to decide if the price is good.

KBB says a private sale of similar car should be about $8600

https://www.kbb.com/pontiac/solstice...=private-party

It depends on how good a friend he is. I would offer 9k and see how it goes. His asking price is a bit high in my opinion but not totally unreasonable.

A strategy would be to go to an internet dealer like Car Max and find a similar car and price it. Then decide. You could also use that price as a basis for negotiating with your friend.

The car sounds very nice. The rear defroster connector is probably repairable. the dealer can do it for you or you can buy a repair kit and do it yourself.

Here is a general checklist with some items to look for

1) Run a CARFAX report to check for any issues on record

2) Go to the GM dealer with the VIN and pull a report from the GM maintenance database, it will provide a lot of useful info on maintenance, failures, mileage, and recalls applied or outstanding

3) Early 08s had the electric vacuum brake booster pump deleted. Some have had issues due to this. There are two fixes, one software one adds the pump back to the car as a "kit"

4) 09s had the center double cup holder deleted. Many find this a problem and some have had the dealer install one. See threads on this subject

5) 2010 MY has updated engine management software and is not compatible with the GMPP tune.

6) Check the front cup holder to see if it’s there and functional.

7) Visually inspect the differential for seeping / leaking and operation. Some 07s had noise issues and there was a recall to install a special additive to address issues.

8) Visually inspect the undercarriage. Look for damage due to lifting in the area of the front fenders and the front lift points. Put a torque wrench on the bolts that retain the wheels on the inside as there are a few cases of these coming loose. Check the shocks for leakage, there are a few instances of them failing prematurely.

9) Visually inspect the "chin" for damage, many have been run into curbs and need repair. It’s a place where you can easily get it fixed but could negotiate the fix into the purchase price.

10) Cycle the tops several times for proper operation and look for any wear on the sides where the trunk hold down feet contact the fabric. Some scuffing is ok but the unwary owner has often had the top holed in this area. Visually inspect the trunk lid to make sure the rubber portion of the hold down feet are intact and properly aligned. Check the top for proper deployment and any sticking as well as general alignment. Make sure the twin flaps move freely and smoothly. Verify that both buttresses release easily and completely. Check the condition of the trunk hinges and the torsion bars. If the trunk has popped open when in motion, the hinges can be damaged and the torsion bars are known to fail occasionally. The fix is to pull the rear bumper cover and while it’s not difficult, it can be a significant labor charge to get it done.

11) Visually inspect the center console. Many have failed due to their design. If the previous owner put any significant weight on the center console cover, it is most likely cracked. The cracking starts at the curved rear portion on the driver’s side and progresses up through the center of the console cover. Often you can press down on the cover and see it flexing abnormally in this area and determine that it is unsound. It’s an easy fix, but if out of the bumper to bumper warranty, it will cost about $100 for a new part. If in doubt, pull up on the rear of the console cover and it will pop up so you can visually inspect the underside.

12) Visually inspect the tire pump assembly in the trunk. It’s about $50 to replace and its all you have on the road.

13) Visually inspect the intercooler for damage or defects. Many have been run into curbs and damaged, they are subject to foreign object damage on the road and unless you give them a good look you may not discover it until you have a problem. In rare instances, GMPP equipped GXPs have experienced splitting of the IC can on the outlet side. It is hidden by the plastic shroud but you can infer damage if there are codes thrown regularly or on cold start you listen up front near the ground you can hear a sucking sound.

14) Manually inspect the hose clamps for tightness. Give the air cleaner a quick look. If its full of tons of junk, that may be an indicator of the attention that the car received from the current owner and be a subject for triggering a more detailed inspection of the car by a trusted tech.

15) Check the condition of the MAF sensor where it mates with the intake tubing up front. Some have been broken off and glued back on as an expedient repair. This is not necessarily bad but is another indicator of the level of attention the current owner gave to the car.

16) Check for heavy uneven wear in the tires. If they were rotated as required, they should be evenly worn. If they are not, then that is another indicator.

17) Pull up the passenger side carpet and give the BCM a quick look. Is the cover in place? Does it show signs of having been removed frequently? Are there any signs of modification or tampering?

18) Inspect the fuse / relay box on the left side of the engine bay at the firewall. Look for any signs of problems, excessive handling or modifications.

19) Visually inspect the turbo for any signs of external cracking, oil leaking, or “modifications” to the actuation rod. The locktite should be intact with no signs of the nut having been turned.

20) Check the coolant level and color. If there is any question or anomaly, have it tested for specific gravity.

21) Have a person sit in the passenger seat to verify the proper operation of the seat airbag sensor. Several have failed and its relatively expensive to have them repaired out of warranty.

22) Check for proper operation of the driver’s seat lift motor. Many are never used and need to be lubricated to free them up properly.

23) Road test the car. Make sure all systems are functional. Check the DIC for all displays and the presence of any codes or warnings.

24) Visually inspect all the rubber seals – they are hard to find and some are very expensive.

25) Visually inspect the condition of the headlight and tail light assemblies. They are expensive and difficult to find. Some light pitting can be polished out but cracks are a problem.

26) For automatic cars, drive the car in low speed conditions an check for smooth upshifts and downshifts. Some cars are experiencing very hard 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts apparently due to undiagnosed camshaft position sensor failures.

Rob the Elder

Punisher's Daddy
Green Dragon's chief mechanic
Carol's husband for 50 years

Secretary Rocky Mountain Solstice and Sky Club
Punisher's story
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f62/punisher-65168/
Punisher thread index
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ml#post1765649
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ml#post2067289


Last edited by rob the elder; 01-06-2017 at 08:19 AM.
rob the elder is offline  
post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Thanks for the quick response! $10.5K is the lowest he will go. He started t $12K. He is a really honest guy and I trust that to the best of his knowledge, everything is in good shape. In fact, he was somewhat reluctant to part with the car but I really pressed him to sell.

I really appreciate all of the advise and now know what to look for.
Todd_SG is offline  
post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 09:53 AM
AKA SolWhat?
 
DaveOC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 10,156
Garage
To me, that seems like a high price, but I am in the cold, frozen north instead of Florida. Check around other prices for similar aged Solstices in the Florida area, not dealerships but privately sold cars.

Similar non-GXP cars around here are available privately for $7000 to $8000. Mileage doesn't seem to make much of a difference.



.



1st 1K - #741
DaveOC is online now  
post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:14 AM
Member
 
The_Ghost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 3,695
Hi Todd...I agree with Rob...$10.5 for an NA '07 Solstice is a bit much. I could see $9 or even $8. However, it is yellow, which in the upper Midwest seems to command about an extra $1500. Don't ask me why, it just does. Just remember, you could probably have a GXP (much more fun then the NA!!!) for about the same price....maybe even a bit less. Here's a great example of a GXP.... Cars for Sale: Used 2007 Pontiac Solstice in GXP Convertible, Naperville IL: 60540 Details - Convertible - Autotrader

And the GXP is almost 100hp more!!! If you do buy the NA, NEVER drive a GXP...you'll be sorry.... just sayin.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
The_Ghost is offline  
post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:43 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 62
Is this a good price?

I got my GXP with 56k miles for $7500 in Florida. Had two scratches and 3 Small door dings. 3k miles later and some hard driving to test out the car it's now heating up. After water pump and thermostat replacement that cost me $150 it's still heating up. Since it's my weekend car I haven't spent too much time researching the issue. still looking into it :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by Myllertime; 01-06-2017 at 10:46 AM.
Myllertime is offline  
post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:48 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 62
Is this a good price?

I would not buy that car without turbo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Myllertime is offline  
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:33 PM
Member
 
The_Ghost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 3,695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myllertime View Post
I got my GXP with 56k miles for $7500 in Florida. Had two scratches and 3 Small door dings. 3k miles later and some hard driving to test out the car it's now heating up. After water pump and thermostat replacement that cost me $150 it's still heating up. Since it's my weekend car I haven't spent too much time researching the issue. still looking into it :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your overheating issue might be due to only paying $150 for a WP and thermostat. Both parts from dealer are well over $300. Just the WP would be about $250 from the dealer.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
The_Ghost is offline  
post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:36 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 62
Both are GM parts. Of course dealers will charge you more. WP is $100 and Thermostat is $50. You can get off brands for cheaper but these are GM. On the GM site the WP was around $130-$150 I believe. Dealers rip you off my friend


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Myllertime is offline  
post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:38 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 62
Actually it's $170 at GM as I'm typing this. It was around $130 when I did the job. But I got it discounted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Myllertime is offline  
post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:39 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 62
Thermostat is $41 from GM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Myllertime is offline  
post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 04:57 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 131
If you haven't driven a turbo yet and you are not in a rush go test drive one

I wouldn't but a non turbo but that's just me and you will find a car cheaper or better after you buy one

If you have the money and love this car and have looked around and you are OK with the lil things that need TLC

Buy it and be happy
Cityboy is offline  
post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 05:25 PM
Member
 
kwtoxman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,461
Price is a little high for a base car. Make sure it has the torque arm on the rear differential; if not walk away. Base is fine if you don't want a car with much power; the moment you want any more power on a base car you would have done better by getting a GXP. FWIW the 08/09 base cars have notably more standard equipment than 06/07 base cars.

Last edited by kwtoxman; 01-07-2017 at 07:50 AM.
kwtoxman is offline  
post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 06:53 AM
Member
 
ChopTop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hooterville, MI
Posts: 6,790
Is this a good price? Let's just say that Kappa owners don't always take NADA, KBB or market values into consideration when pricing their cars. But you could say that about a lot of enthusiast type car sites.

Here's prices for the last couple of week from my low mileage Sols for sale thread. Note these are asking prices only.

2007, GXP, Manual, Mean (Yellow), 8,700 Miles, $17,000, Detroit area, MI
2007 "GXP" Pontiac Solstice (pics)

2006, Manual, Aggressive (Red), 18,773 Miles, $11,000, Ider Sand Mountain, TN
2006 Pontiac Solstice Low Miles Pristine (pics)

2006, Manual, Mysterious (Black), 12,200 Miles, $10,500, Hamden, CT
2006 Pontiac Solstice - Mint (pics)

Original owner, 2006, Manual, Deep (Dk Blue), 14,700 Miles, $12,700, Everette, WA
Original One Owner 2006 Pontiac Solstice (pics)

2007, 2.4, Auto, Mean (Yellow), 19,000 Miles, $9,995, Camdenton, MO
http://semo.craigslist.org/cto/5930712036.html (pics)

2006, Manual, Cool (Silver), 9,200 Miles, $11,500, Long Island, NY
Pontiac solstice (pics)

2007, 2.4, Auto, Mysterious (Black), 9,600 Miles, $16,500, Bessemer, AL
2007 Pontiac Solstice (pics)

2006, Auto, Aggressive (Red), 19,000 Miles, $12,000, Petoskey, MI
2006 Pontiac Solstice (pics)

2007, GXP, Manual, Cool (Silver), 18,316 Miles, $11,495, Goodletsville, AL
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP ? Conflirtable (pics)

2006, Auto, Cool (Silver), 17.333 Miles, $13,998, Burnsville, MN
2006 Pontiac Solstice BASE CONVERT NICE (pic)

2007, GXP, Manual, Agressive (Red), 15,000 Miles, $13,980, TX
***2007 PONTIAC SOLSTICE GXP ROADSTER 2.0L TURBO 15K MILES (pics)

2007, GXP, Manual, ZOK, Deep (Blue) 22,500 Miles, $17,500, Loveland, Colorado
2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster convertible (pics)

2008, 2.4, Manual, Cool (Silver), 6,200 Miles, $13,500, reduced $12,750, Sumpter, NC
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/5945270907.html (pics)

2007, 2.4, Manual, Cool (Silver), 19,622 Miles, $12,998, Herculaneum, MO
2007 Pontiac Solstice Base - CALL NOW! (pics)

2006, Manual, Mysterious (Black), 11,800 Miles, $12,500, Reston, VA
Pontiac Solstice Roadster 2006 (pics)

2006, Manual, Mysterious (Black), 14,700 Miles, $12,700, Los Angeles, CA
Original One Owner 2006 Pontiac Solstice (pics)

.
.
.
.
.
Mr & Mrs ChopTop's 09 Fastback & 06 Vert Mods thread:https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...session-75468/ Original join date; Oct 2005 under LowLife handle.

Last edited by ChopTop; 01-07-2017 at 07:02 AM.
ChopTop is offline  
post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 08:59 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: illinois
Posts: 154
For that price, I would be looking at a GXP turbo car. Can find one for about $1500 more than what he is asking.
briguy58 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac Solstice Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome