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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2018, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Introduction and quest for knowledge

Hey all.....

thanks for the website, been spending hours reviewing threads

have a few issues.....could use some assistance

picked up a '08 Solstice GXP for a new daily driver about a month ago. drive 100 miles a day, and wanted something the top went down, manual transmission and fun to drive. test drove a bunch of solstice/sky's a few Mini cooper S 'verts as well as a honda S2000.....settled on the GXP

unfortunately, i did not look over the car close enough when I bought it as I was more interested in compression on the engine, etc. the car appeared really clean and wasnt a turd-box like two of the GXP's we drove.

.... so the wife and I drove the 5 hours to jacksonville to buy the GXP.....

105 on the clock when I bought it, almost 108 on it now. car had just had timing chain done, water pump done, etc. which was a bonus when I was talking to the PO.


on way up, guy tells me the radio doesnt work. get there, antenna missing. so I took a chance. was both fuses for the radio and amp, and ordered an antenna. now have tunes....... replaced the on-star/sat radio fuse and was able to enjoy 2 weeks of satelite as Sirius/XM had a promotion until the 29th

after getting it home, noted that someone in the cars past ran into a curb hard. removed the lip from the front bumper and mashed the bottom of the IC in pretty hard. how I over-looked this, not sure. however not happy about finding this issue.

I have temporarily patched the hole in the bottom where the condensation tube fittings were ground down with JB weld until I get a replacement IC. not happy about the busted plastic in the front or missing lip to the bumper cover.

no funds right now for a DDM or Hahn so I am looking for a cheep stock IC (prior projects take precidence)

noted that the coolant is green. talked to the PO, was a private garage that did the work. not sure why they used non GM coolant. on my list to change shortly.

passenger air bag module is dead - awaiting parts to arrive at stealership for recall. spent 2 days on the phone with GM, because according to GM, my car has a "branded title", however according to Florida, that is not the case. finally GM and dealer came to agreement for the recall

TPMS module is dead which is common with '08 cars, however it wont flash - new RKE module planned, however low on the required list. so all 4 TPMS sensors read "--"

I think the car may have been an Avis rental early on. there is an avis sticker and an after-market alarm (without key fobs)... need to remove that soon. may be tied to the RKE module issue. either way, that is still low on the priority list.

regarding the motor

a few mis-fires on cylinder 1 (P0301) have been recorded. it seams to want to mis-fire just after sitting for a few minutes when warm

last codes were P2178 and P0301 (Just received my Bluetooth OBD2 reader)

changed plugs to a new set of delco 41-108's and gaped to 0.028" about 3 days after getting the car which seamed to help
have new O2 sensors and a new knock sensor that I will be installing this weekend. however thinking the IC is still leaking hence the P2178

car has stock map sensors, so I doubt there is a tune in it. that will have to wait until I get the IC replaced. not sure I need more than a GMPP or Trifecta tune as most of my driving has been bumper-to-bumper grid-lock on 275 in Pinellas county

rear window is starting to come loose. I have the 3M sealant on order thru amazon. that will wait until we are back from vacation.

trunk latch is intermittent. sometimes the trunk releases, other times I wedge my fingers in the corner of the shut line and try to pry up while pressing the button in the glove box. the other issue is the trunk falls on my head when putting the top up or down. any suggestions?

passenger cup holder is broken and center console is cracked. thought of a DDM center console, however Im elbow deep in a fiberglass project on my boat, may make my own and have my interior guy stitch something in leather.

When I got the car, the PO stated cold AC, etc.
it was a cool day when I picked up the car.... should have negotiated for that too. cars without working AC are miserable on rainy days in traffic

checked static pressure of 83psi, that is about right for the upper 80's ambient. if i jump the compressor relay, the compressor runs, however the low side pressure is about 55psi. couldnt get my cheap chinese gauges to latch onto the high side (have to look at that). assuming plugged orifice block.... so ordered a new H block and drier as well as 8 oz of PAG oil with UV die. will evacuate the system, replace components and re-charge. maybe this weekend, or maybe mid June when we get back

spent an entire weekend removing duplicolor from the wheels. the PO blacked out the wheels and only did one coat, so the carp didnt peal. spent hours with the pressure washer, which will completely take off any wheel weights because the cheap chinese 2-sided tape on them cant hold. weights are now held on with 3M VHB4950

put together a tire plug kit to keep in the trunk. not fond of the tire goo as it makes one hell of a mess. I usually carry a tire plug kit in every vehicle. only once when I hit metal debris in the road that lacerated a tire did I actually use a spare in the last 400k miles worth of driving.

any advice is appreciated. any one in the Bradenton Florida area....stop in and say hey....
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2018, 06:21 PM
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Welcome and sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the car already.

Best -

SOLD 2007-#005 Mallett Solstice Sly w/2000 miles!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Danforth View Post
I have temporarily patched the hole in the bottom where the condensation tube fittings were ground down with JB weld until I get a replacement IC. not happy about the busted plastic in the front or missing lip to the bumper cover.

Check all the joints in the charge tubes for tightness. The force applied could easily have pulled them apart and the factory hose clamps are notoriously poor. Replace them with better clamps.

Check with Redline recyclers in Orlando. They have a lot of parts and can probably find you a good used IC.

noted that the coolant is green. talked to the PO, was a private garage that did the work. not sure why they used non GM coolant. on my list to change shortly.

The Dexcool and other formulations are incompatible. If mixed you will get jelly inside the motor. I would stay with the Green or make sure you flush the hell out of everything with water. You could be creating new problems that you don't need.

passenger air bag module is dead - awaiting parts to arrive at stealership for recall. spent 2 days on the phone with GM, because according to GM, my car has a "branded title", however according to Florida, that is not the case. finally GM and dealer came to agreement for the recall

Is it the airbag module or the seat sensor? The seat sensor is under the recall. The airbag module is in the dash.

TPMS module is dead which is common with '08 cars, however it wont flash - new RKE module planned, however low on the required list. so all 4 TPMS sensors read "--"

The TPMS sensor batteries are at the end of life. They are starting to fail. Make sure that you have good sensors before you work on the RKE module. Amazon has a nice tool that allows you to check the status of each wheel sensor.

changed plugs to a new set of delco 41-108's and gaped to 0.028" about 3 days after getting the car which seamed to help

There have been instances of plugs welding themselves to the heads. I use anti-seize for this reason

car has stock map sensors, so I doubt there is a tune in it. that will have to wait until I get the IC replaced. not sure I need more than a GMPP or Trifecta tune as most of my driving has been bumper-to-bumper grid-lock on 275 in Pinellas county

The GMPP has improved mileage to a measurable extent. Some have seen mileage go from 32 to as high as 40 MPG at steady freeway driving.

rear window is starting to come loose. I have the 3M sealant on order thru amazon. that will wait until we are back from vacation.

Do a rehearsal of the fix before you apply the glue. The easy part is applying the glue to the window, the challenging part is bracing the window against the top while the glue sets. I used a cardboard box pressing against the rear window and held in place by the forward edge of the trunk lid. If you practice this first it makes the job pretty straight forward

trunk latch is intermittent. sometimes the trunk releases, other times I wedge my fingers in the corner of the shut line and try to pry up while pressing the button in the glove box. the other issue is the trunk falls on my head when putting the top up or down. any suggestions?

I had a similar problem. My factory torsion bars were weak. I replaced them with new ones and "adjusted" the clamps under the bumper cover to provide increased tension..
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ml#post1106621

It is not terribly challenging to replace them.

The ultimate solution is to purchase the Opal GT trunk lift cylinder kit. Its designed for the Sky / Opal GT but you can make minor mods that will allow it to fit the Solstice. I put mine on this winter. Pops the trunk right open.

passenger cup holder is broken and center console is cracked.

Here is what you need to know about the cupholder

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...scovery-74560/

There are now sources for printed replacement parts for the existing cupholders. Also, you can tune them so they work very well.


put together a tire plug kit to keep in the trunk. not fond of the tire goo as it makes one hell of a mess.

The fix a flat is no doubt a solid mass in the trunk. If it is used it makes the tire unrepairable after about 24 hours and can damage the TPMS sensor. Not using it is a great idea. I carry the pump and CO2 in addition just because.

Read the maintenance checklist. It covers all the items that need to be checked.
License Number:
Item Description
1 Pop open the key fobs to verify the integrity of the solder joint to the battery retainer
Exterior
1 Verify operation of exterior lights
2 Inspect body panels for fit, condition
3 Check TPMS for function and tire pressure
Engine Bay
1 Visually inspect engine bay for condition clean as necessary
2 Verify brake fluid level and condition
3 Visually inspect condition of all charge tube clamps.
4 Check air cleaner filter element condition
5 Inspect the PCV valve for proper operation and connection
6 Check tightness of exhaust bolts, mounts
7 Check tightness of turbo shield
8 Inspect turbo oil lines
9 Inspect oil fill level and condition (fuel contamination)
10 Inspect / service battery terminals
11 Inspect / service engine ground terminal
12 Check all fluids. Verify mileage / life are within required values
13 Inspect forward fuse box and terminals for condition
14 Inspect hood / fender latches, lube as necessary
15 Inspect electrical cables for condition
16 Check top side condition of inner fenders
17 Check ECM is properly mounted and condition of connectors
Cockpit and Top
1 Check tightness of top when up and locked. Adjust as necessary (left and right)
2 Query owner about wind noise. Adjust windows if necessary
3 Check condition of door handles, tighten / repair if required
4 Lubricate the sliding portion of top mechanism over the doors to preclude pinching.
5 Visually inspect the slide plate over the doors for tightness and wear. Replace if necessary
6 Check operation of the roof latch, tighten as necessary
7 Visually inspect the windshield to top gasket. Looking for tears, holes etc. Lubricate
8 Check operation of buttress latches, lubricate / adjust as necessary
9 Verify proper operation of convertible top folding mechanism.
10 Verify condition of rear window glass and defroster
11 Treat all rubber seals with di-electric grease
12 Pull the center console and check for cracks. Install support if required.
13 Cycle both cupholders and check operation. Lube as necessary.
14 Check operation of dash trunk release button.
15 Pull the right carpet front and visually inspect BCM area
16 Visually inspect BCM fuses.
17 Cycle driver's seat height adjustment to verify operation. Lube as necessary.
18 Check operation of hood release latch, lube as necessary
19 Check dead pedal for condition
20 Check door hinges for operation, service as necessary
21 Verify condition of door body latches
22 For vertical doors verify fit and adjust. Lubricate
Trunk
1 Verify trunk latch operation
2 Check trunk operation. Verify condition of torsion bars / hinges
3 Check / service trunk lid hold down rubber feet.
4 Visually inspect trunk pressure release valve
5 Visually inspect flap cables for operation and condition. Adjust / Lube as necessary
6 Visually inspect trunk cable assembly, connectors etc.
7 Visually inspect and lube as necessary buttress latches
8 Check trunk light for operation
9 Check rear trunk drain area. Clean as necessary.
10 Verify operation of trunk forward drains, left and right. Clean as necessary
Underside
1 Inspect intercooler drain tube, check for presence of oil, water or contaminates
2 Inspect radiator for blockage, clean as necessary.
3 Inspect the front bumper and "chin" for scuffing or damage
4 Visually inspect inner fenders for rubbing / wear inside rear wheel wells
5 Inspect condition of wheel electrical connections
6 Check break pads / disks for wear
7 Visually inspect shocks for condition / leaks / operation
8 Check wheel hub bolts (three per wheel) for proper torque (or if missing)
9 Inspect the bottom attachment points for fenders and condition of fenders
10 Visually inspect the differential for leaks and condition of mounts
11 Verify condition of wheel bearing condition.
12 Inspect exhaust system for condition and tightness
13 Inspect condition of O2 sensor wiring
14 Check / torque wheels
15 Inspect tires for condition, wear

Rob the Elder

Punisher's Daddy
Green Dragon's chief mechanic
Carol's husband for 50 years

Secretary Rocky Mountain Solstice and Sky Club
Punisher's story
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f62/punisher-65168/
Punisher thread index
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ml#post1765649
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ml#post2067289

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 09:22 AM
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^^^^ Great list. I'd add:
Inspect door sill covers for integrity of bond between plastic and metal insert.
Inspect underside of doors for damage caused by loose metal door sill inserts.
Check for presence of GM 3 bar MAP sensor. If present, check quality of electrical splice.
Inspect water pump for leaks.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 11:05 AM
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Scott, First I have to heartily congratulate you on all the research you've obviously done, reading through these fora and finding the answers that you have. It's SO nice to see someone interested in learning, rather than being spoon fed answer to common issues that have come up so often. Kudos, man!

OK, then the only question I see in your post is...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Danforth View Post
trunk latch is intermittent. sometimes the trunk releases, other times I wedge my fingers in the corner of the shut line and try to pry up while pressing the button in the glove box. the other issue is the trunk falls on my head when putting the top up or down. any suggestions?
If it's the latch that's intermittent, it may just need adjusting. But the lid not staying up is probably one or both failed torsion spring/rod(s) which could also make it hang up when opening. Here's a starter post that may help: https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...7/#post1045403

And more threads are listed here: https://www.google.com/search?q=sols...rum.com&num=50

One more...

Quote:
noted that the coolant is green. talked to the PO, was a private garage that did the work. not sure why they used non GM coolant. on my list to change shortly.
You probably know this, but if your 'green coolant' is non-Dexcool compatible you should THOROUGHLY flush all of it out of your system, multiple times, with clean water. It will not react well to Dexcool and can sludge up.

Now many green coolants ARE Dexcool compatible, but you can't tell at this point (unless the PO can tell you what was put in) so better to be safe than sorry.

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob the elder View Post
License Number:
Item Description
1 Pop open the key fobs to verify the integrity of the solder joint to the battery retainer
Exterior
1 Verify operation of exterior lights
2 Inspect body panels for fit, condition
3 Check TPMS for function and tire pressure
Engine Bay
1 Visually inspect engine bay for condition clean as necessary
2 Verify brake fluid level and condition
3 Visually inspect condition of all charge tube clamps.
4 Check air cleaner filter element condition
5 Inspect the PCV valve for proper operation and connection
6 Check tightness of exhaust bolts, mounts
7 Check tightness of turbo shield
8 Inspect turbo oil lines
9 Inspect oil fill level and condition (fuel contamination)
10 Inspect / service battery terminals
11 Inspect / service engine ground terminal
12 Check all fluids. Verify mileage / life are within required values
13 Inspect forward fuse box and terminals for condition
14 Inspect hood / fender latches, lube as necessary
15 Inspect electrical cables for condition
16 Check top side condition of inner fenders
17 Check ECM is properly mounted and condition of connectors
Cockpit and Top
1 Check tightness of top when up and locked. Adjust as necessary (left and right)
2 Query owner about wind noise. Adjust windows if necessary
3 Check condition of door handles, tighten / repair if required
4 Lubricate the sliding portion of top mechanism over the doors to preclude pinching.
5 Visually inspect the slide plate over the doors for tightness and wear. Replace if necessary
6 Check operation of the roof latch, tighten as necessary
7 Visually inspect the windshield to top gasket. Looking for tears, holes etc. Lubricate
8 Check operation of buttress latches, lubricate / adjust as necessary
9 Verify proper operation of convertible top folding mechanism.
10 Verify condition of rear window glass and defroster
11 Treat all rubber seals with di-electric grease
12 Pull the center console and check for cracks. Install support if required.
13 Cycle both cupholders and check operation. Lube as necessary.
14 Check operation of dash trunk release button.
15 Pull the right carpet front and visually inspect BCM area
16 Visually inspect BCM fuses.
17 Cycle driver's seat height adjustment to verify operation. Lube as necessary.
18 Check operation of hood release latch, lube as necessary
19 Check dead pedal for condition
20 Check door hinges for operation, service as necessary
21 Verify condition of door body latches
22 For vertical doors verify fit and adjust. Lubricate
Trunk
1 Verify trunk latch operation
2 Check trunk operation. Verify condition of torsion bars / hinges
3 Check / service trunk lid hold down rubber feet.
4 Visually inspect trunk pressure release valve
5 Visually inspect flap cables for operation and condition. Adjust / Lube as necessary
6 Visually inspect trunk cable assembly, connectors etc.
7 Visually inspect and lube as necessary buttress latches
8 Check trunk light for operation
9 Check rear trunk drain area. Clean as necessary.
10 Verify operation of trunk forward drains, left and right. Clean as necessary
Underside
1 Inspect intercooler drain tube, check for presence of oil, water or contaminates
2 Inspect radiator for blockage, clean as necessary.
3 Inspect the front bumper and "chin" for scuffing or damage
4 Visually inspect inner fenders for rubbing / wear inside rear wheel wells
5 Inspect condition of wheel electrical connections
6 Check break pads / disks for wear
7 Visually inspect shocks for condition / leaks / operation
8 Check wheel hub bolts (three per wheel) for proper torque (or if missing)
9 Inspect the bottom attachment points for fenders and condition of fenders
10 Visually inspect the differential for leaks and condition of mounts
11 Verify condition of wheel bearing condition.
12 Inspect exhaust system for condition and tightness
13 Inspect condition of O2 sensor wiring
14 Check / torque wheels
15 Inspect tires for condition, wear
thanks for the list


1 - no key fobs, either the stock GM or the Code-Alarm ones (aftermarket alarm)

Exterior
1 - all lights work - done prior to purchase
2 - checked fit of hood, trunk, prior to purchase
3 - RKE module dead, all 4 TPMS readings are "--"

engine bay
1. - done prior to purchase
2. - done prior to purchase
3 - done - hence the discovery of the intercooler
4 - new when I did plugs
5 - cleaned when I did oil change on day 2
6 - done
7 - done
8 - done
9 - done both at purchase and on day 2 with oil change
10 - done prior to purchase
11 - done prior to purchase
12 - expected to replace all fluids
13 - done on day 2
14 - done
15 - done
16 - done at purchase - 2 fasteners missing on driver side, however 4 more fasteners on drivers side came loose on way home and flopped into tire. new fender liners on list.
17 - done at purchase

cockpit and top
1 - done at purchase
2 - done at purchase - 1/2 hour long test ride
3 - done at purchase
4 - done on day 2
5 - Slide plate???
6 - done at purchase
7 - inspected at purchase
8 - inspected at purchase, lubed on day 2
9 - inspected at purchase
10 - verified defroster worked at purchase, noted delamination of window
11 - done with silicone spray
12 - noted crack at purchase
13 - pass side cup holder noted broken at purchase
14 - done at purchase, noted that trunk didnt always pop up, however latch and solenoid work. lubricated latch on day 2
15 - done at purchase, noted aftermarket alarm at BCM
16 - done on day 2 when it was light
17 - inspected at purchase, still need to lube
18 - inspected at purchase, lubed on day 2
19 - inspected at purchase
20 - inspected at purchase
21 - inspected at purchase
22 - inspected at purchase, lubed on day 2

TRUNK
1 - done at purchase
2 - noted lazy trunk at purchase expect bad springs
3 - done on day 2
4 - pressure relief valve??? have to look this up
5 - new clips and zip ties to keep the cables from poping out the clips. this was noted at purchase
6 - will re-look
7 - lubed all latches day one with lithium grease
8 - inspected at purchase
9 - inspected at purchase, reviewed on day 2
10 - cleaned on day 2

Underside - this is where I failed at point of purchase
1 - inspected on day 2 - hence finding the mashed IC
2 - inspected on day 2
3 - chin is missing - noted on day 2
4 - inspected at purchase, and on day 2 - zip-tied remainder of drivers inner fender in place on day 2
5 - done at purchase, re-done after pulling wheels to clean off spray-dip
6 - new brakes and tires prior to purchase - inspected on day 2
7 - done after week1
8 - done after week 1
9 - done after week 1
10 - done after week 1
11 - done after week 1
12 - done after week 1
13 - new O2 sensors today
14 - done after pulling wheels to clean off spray-dip
15 - new brakes and tires prior to purchase - inspect every week since TPMS is dead


replaced to date: O2 #1 and O2 #2, knock sensor, spark plugs, filters, oil/filter
purchased, and planned; orifice block and receiver drier
in-process - PPS module - awaiting parts
on order - new factory key fobs and RKE module

need to get ASAP - replacment stock IC

determine if mis-fire on cylinder 1 is coil or coil boot.

planned after the boat project is complete:

upgraded IC, boost tubes, MAP sensors and a tune
custom center console, new material on door panels to match

as needed for replacment, tires and brakes will be upgraded
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorennerol View Post
^^^^ Great list. I'd add:
Inspect door sill covers for integrity of bond between plastic and metal insert.
Inspect underside of doors for damage caused by loose metal door sill inserts.
Check for presence of GM 3 bar MAP sensor. If present, check quality of electrical splice.
Inspect water pump for leaks.
door sill covers in tact
will look at doors
inspected on day one. factory 1.5 bar MAP
new water pump and timing chain just prior to purchase
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Scott, First I have to heartily congratulate you on all the research you've obviously done, reading through these fora and finding the answers that you have. It's SO nice to see someone interested in learning, rather than being spoon fed answer to common issues that have come up so often. Kudos, man!

OK, then the only question I see in your post is...



If it's the latch that's intermittent, it may just need adjusting. But the lid not staying up is probably one or both failed torsion spring/rod(s) which could also make it hang up when opening. Here's a starter post that may help: https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...7/#post1045403

And more threads are listed here: https://www.google.com/search?q=sols...rum.com&num=50

One more...



You probably know this, but if your 'green coolant' is non-Dexcool compatible you should THOROUGHLY flush all of it out of your system, multiple times, with clean water. It will not react well to Dexcool and can sludge up.

Now many green coolants ARE Dexcool compatible, but you can't tell at this point (unless the PO can tell you what was put in) so better to be safe than sorry.


Thanks. been turning wrenches since I was 3. welded my first go-cart when I was 10, got my first speeding ticket at 11 - prefer to be knowledgeable on what i am working on, however also know many of you guys are in the BTDT-own-the-tee-shirt group, so I humbly ask

looked at the latch, it appears to pull in consistently, and is lubed with enough lithium to make a battery. trunk appears to "stick" at the weather stripping (will be re-lubing when I condition the top this weekend now that it stopped raining) and need to look at the lazy trunk springs.

exactly my thoughts on the coolant. even though I can tell nearly every automotive fluid by smell and taste, unfortunatly both green and orange taste the same.... plan on a complete flush, reflush and refill. thought of taking some of the green and mixing with some of the orange. if i get brown sludge, then I know the green is not correct.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
inspected on day one. factory 1.5 bar MAP
Actually the OEM MAP sensors are 2.5 and the GMPP as you described are 3.0.
This is one of the reasons Trifecta leaves the 2.5 and accomplishes what the GM GMPP tune HP gets from that OEM tune.

Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, MT.
Options:
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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either way, dont think there is a tune in this thing as top boost is about 17psi for a split second then drops down to about 15/16, and the stock MAP sensors are what is in the car.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 09:38 PM
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EDIT: Nevermind...I'm thinking P2188

But, P2178... IMSMC....I think it's do to a leak in the IC.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.

Last edited by The_Ghost; 06-02-2018 at 09:42 PM.
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