Need some quick buying help! - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 08:41 PM
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What did your girlfriends dad have...a GXP or a normally aspirated? Cause if you fell in love with the GXP, don't get an NA. You'll regret your purchase. The power difference is extreme!
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
What did your girlfriends dad have...a GXP or a normally aspirated? Cause if you fell in love with the GXP, don't get an NA. You'll regret your purchase. The power difference is extreme!
He had an NA, and you're not kidding about the power difference! It's really not a huge deal for me as the looks/cruising factor is the most important part for me. I'm seriously right down the middle here. For $5k I would get a red N/A with no real extra options & 71K miles. The only immediate thing I would do would be upgrade the stereo and MAYBE down the line an exhaust & tune. Any replacement parts (struts, clutch, air filter) would be upgrades when needed but most likely I would just use this as an intro to the car and something to enjoy the drive.

The turbo for $11,250 I wouldn't really have to do anything at all except maintenance but it would be the absolute roof of my spending ability. It also has the traction control (which would probably come in handy when I decide to drive it in the winter in New England), fancy roof liner and ABS. I'm just wondering if the extra 6k is worth it.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 04:30 AM
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A tune wont do a whole lot for an NA car. You might add 10hp...but it's not a big thing on an NA. Where a GXP it will really wake it up if it's not tuned already.
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____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 04:51 AM
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... The only immediate thing I would do would be upgrade the stereo and MAYBE down the line an exhaust & tune. ...
there you have it. You have been bitten. You already want to tune the car. Therefore, you want a GXP. As stated, a tune on a NA car is not worth the money.

Sir William's Fleet
Mean 2007 NA 2007 Solstice ordered on 8/24/06 - Picked up on 12/12/06 - Totaled on 6/12/10
Mean 2008 GXP Acquired 6/21/10 with 1275 miles on it - Summer Solstice !
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Mean 2009 GXP Coupe Acquired 8/27/16 with 9100 miles on it
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 05:53 AM
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I am definitely torn between the two. No lien issue on the '09 gxp (Carfax confirmed) and the 07 base is getting a body shop to fix the scrape if I pay the $5k asking price. Ugh! Not sure what direction to go.
If you truly are torn after driving both I would go for the NA. But take the tune off of your wish list.

Maintenance on the turbo could end up being several thousand dollars more than the NA over the next couple of years because the water pump and fuel pump are both more likely to fail in it.

John
Lexington, KY
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 05:56 AM
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Take it from someone who just finished sorting out a $4000 Solstice..... you'll save money buying the $11,250 one
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 06:06 AM
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Take it from someone who just finished sorting out a $4000 Solstice..... you'll save money buying the $11,250 one
Was that $4000 Solstice an NA or a GXP?

John
Lexington, KY
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 06:20 AM
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Was that $4000 Solstice an NA or a GXP?
This was a gxp, but none of the expenses have been gxp related.... yet. Mostly age, neglect, abuse and availability of parts. Not to say you can't be successful in finding a good $4000 car of any model that doesn't require a bunch of money thrown at it, but most people are not so fortunate..
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 06:28 AM
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I will add one more thing. The GXPs are holding their value better then the NA cars. And according to the VIO report I just got, the GXPs seem to be going away quicker as well. But opinions are much like belly buttons, everybody has one.

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Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by gzfqy6 View Post
This was a gxp, but none of the expenses have been gxp related.... yet. Mostly age, neglect, abuse and availability of parts. Not to say you can't be successful in finding a good $4000 car of any model that doesn't require a bunch of money thrown at it, but most people are not so fortunate..
The GXP has been valued approximately $5k more than the NA since they were new, so a $5k NA is going to be roughly equivalent to a $10k GXP.

In this case I would call the two cars equal in relative value, so the real question is whether the newer car with more performance but more potential for relatively expensive repairs is worth more than twice as much money.

Since the OP has equal desire for the two, and the more expensive car is at the top of his spending limit, and he wants something low-maintenance, I think the NA is the better choice.
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John
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:34 AM
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The GXP has been valued approximately $5k more than the NA since they were new, so a $5k NA is going to be roughly equivalent to a $10k GXP.

In this case I would call the two cars equal in relative value, so the real question is whether the newer car with more performance but more potential for relatively expensive repairs is worth more than twice as much money.

Since the OP has equal desire for the two, and the more expensive car is at the top of his spending limit, and he wants something low-maintenance, I think the NA is the better choice.
Agreed. In this case NA is probably best choice with this budget in mind.... it is always nice to start out not in debt Used cars are such a crapshoot. You can rationalize & study consumers reports till your red in the face and still get a clunker. I am the original owner of an early 2007 gxp and have had no expense other than tires, pads and battery....but I know that is not the norm.

low maintenance.... did someone say Miata
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you everyone who has posted! This is exactly what I was hoping for - as many opinions as possible. Overall I feel like I'm stuck right in the middle because of the following (not taking into account performance):

N/A - at 71,000 miles, just the regular things that are going to come up are strut/spring replacement, clutch replacement (feels good now but...), and little things here and there (seals, bushings etc). The car also has no ABS, no traction control, no cruise but it does have power door locks, a/c auto lights and after the scrape is repaired (it's in the shop now) it will really shine nicely. I'll also want to upgrade the stereo (I like my music).

GXP - 40,000 miles - I'll have about another 10,000 miles until I have to worry about anything major as far as repairs go so I'll have time to save up some cash for that. It has all of the GXP options that aren't available on the N/A and the stereo is better out of the gate, "premium" headliner (not sure if that actually makes a difference). The resale value will probably hold up a bit better too, especially considering the mileage and the fact that it's the last year the car was available.

I am actually curious, how is the traction control on these cars? Also, please let me know if what I have posted makes sense or if I'm completely off base.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 10:09 AM
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I have a manual NA with 105k miles that has only had the cam solenoids replaced, so under $100 in repairs. The shocks still feel good to me. No seals, no bushings, and the clutch is still fine. So the need for repairs is not a given. I have ABS but no traction or stability control. ABS is good, but I think it has activated twice in 13 years. Does it have a limited slip differential? I do have the premium headliner, but usually have the top down so it really doesn't matter. Ditto for the radio, as it hasn't even been turned on in a couple of years since it is nearly in-audible at speed with the top down.

You may have time with the GXP, but you may not, and unless you would do the repair yourself you are looking at a couple of thousand to replace a pump. Not a warning, but it could happen and you should be prepared for the possibility.

How will you drive the car? You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have. I have only driven either of mine on snow once, and it wasn't fun. On the other hand there are some northern cars that have been driven year round in all weather and they were old enough that they probably didn't have traction control or LSD.

It sounds like you are talking yourself into the GXP, which means it may now be the better choice for you.

John
Lexington, KY
Sky NA 2007 Midnight Blue
Sky RL 2008 Carbon Flash - Naked

Last edited by JohnWR; 08-27-2019 at 03:43 PM.
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 11:27 AM
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Agreed. In this case NA is probably best choice with this budget in mind.... it is always nice to start out not in debt Used cars are such a crapshoot. You can rationalize & study consumers reports till your red in the face and still get a clunker. I am the original owner of an early 2007 gxp and have had no expense other than tires, pads and battery....but I know that is not the norm.

low maintenance.... did someone say Miata
Good points.

I have directed several friends from a Sky/Solstice to a Miata, but more for utility than reliability.
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John
Lexington, KY
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 03:01 PM
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I picked up a 90k mile GXP a little over a year ago for $6500. I've had to replace the water pump (not as bad as everyone makes it sound), high pressure fuel pump and a few other bits, but overall it's been great.

I also have an NA (that's since been turbo'd). Nothing in the world or any parallel dimension, real or imagined, would convince me to get another NA.

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You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have.
Hell, I need traction control in a straight line, on dry pavement on RE71's.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 08-27-2019 at 03:05 PM.
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