Want to buy it and fix it? - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Want to buy it and fix it?

What's up guys, I have a black GXP with 58k miles in great condition other than overheating. I changed wp, thermostat and now I'm left with head gasket. I'm sure it's that. Will be doing a compression test today. Well I just got offered a job out of state. Not sure if I'll have the time to fix it. Anyone want to buy it cheap and fix it themselves? I'll knock the price down $2k which is the high end price for a shop to fix it. I don't want to sell it but it would be less of a headache than trying to get it fixed and move. I'm in Tampa area.


Last edited by Myllertime; 04-08-2017 at 06:09 AM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 05:36 AM
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What is the actual price you are asking for it? If I understand you correctly you are lowering it $2000 below that.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Want to buy it and fix it?

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Originally Posted by Hoosier GXP View Post
What is the actual price you are asking for it? If I understand you correctly you are lowering it $2000 below that.


Yes the actual price is 10k. I'm actually running it right now. Got the air out. I get no heater on the vents and it's idling at 207-210. Waiting for a friend to help me do a compression test. There's a chance it's a minor fix
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Ran it for about 30 mins. The idle maxed out at 214 but when I touched the gas lightly for about 5 mins it went up to 225 then I shut it down. Pretty sure air is getting back in there from the heads. No oil in the coolant and no milky oil. Leaves me slightly clueless.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:28 PM
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I have had gaskets allowing water into the chambers but no loss of compression and negative chemical indication when tested that way. It was on my 6 cylinder MG, and in the end I threw up my hands and changed the head gasket as I didn't know what else to do. It fixed it and I've had no trouble since.

Sounds like you might be at about that point.....

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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I have had gaskets allowing water into the chambers but no loss of compression and negative chemical indication when tested that way. It was on my 6 cylinder MG, and in the end I threw up my hands and changed the head gasket as I didn't know what else to do. It fixed it and I've had no trouble since.

Sounds like you might be at about that point.....


Yeah I have similar symptoms. I just did a compression test. Got 185, 175, 175, 180. Also did a fluid pressure test with each spark off 1 at a time and at 15lbs. All of them acted the same. Took about 5 mins to lose .5lb of pressure. Anyone know any indications here? I also did a combustion chemical test in the coolant and it failed.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myllertime View Post
Yeah I have similar symptoms. I just did a compression test. Got 185, 175, 175, 180. Also did a fluid pressure test with each spark off 1 at a time and at 15lbs. All of them acted the same. Took about 5 mins to lose .5lb of pressure. Anyone know any indications here? I also did a combustion chemical test in the coolant and it failed.
You could try putting a check vale in the bled line. You may have a air leak in the surge tank cap.

Here is the vale part number. 20876185


Check out this post.
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...t-lines-71309/
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier GXP View Post
You could try putting a check vale in the bled line. You may have a air leak in the surge tank cap.



Here is the vale part number. 20876185





Check out this post.

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...t-lines-71309/


I also replaced the tank cap
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 09:21 PM
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I used the check valves and it fixed my heating problem after thermostat didn't. I was running to 231 degrees now at 205.
Just a thought.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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I used the check valves and it fixed my heating problem after thermostat didn't. I was running to 231 degrees now at 205.

Just a thought.


I'll def look into it. Can you send me a link and maybe how to do it. Never heard of it
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 09:31 PM
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Ordered from Amazon. Engine coolant air bleed line valves. You'll need two at $13 ea .
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 06:07 AM
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TSB about the check valves can be found here.

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...tml#post938806

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Just ordered two of them. Fingers crossed.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 10:22 AM
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For what it's worth, I'll post it here.

See below:



.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TSB_10-06-02-001-coolingcheckvalves.pdf (259.2 KB, 299 views)



1st 1K - #741
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 12:05 PM
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Myllertime, you might want to check out a tool for filling your cooling system called an airlift. A few of us on the forum have used them and have good luck getting the air out of the system.

One of the threads that discusses the tool can be found here;

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...2/#post1847554

I've used this tool on a few cars and have no problems with air in the system, plus if you do have a leak somewhere it will be pretty evident by the fact that your system won't hold vacuum. My car will hold about 20 HG of vacuum for as long as I wanted it to and all I had to do to seal the system was to plug the overflow line.
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