Hawk HPS Brake Pad Install - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 11:04 AM
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So in concensus, it seems that in order to correct the front bias of the OEM braking system, we should go to a more aggressive pad in the rear and less aggressive one in the front. Combinations suggested so far are:

OEM Front- HPS Rear (good performance)
OEM Front- HP+ Rear (better performance, noisy)
Ceramic Front- HPS Rear (better performance, quiet)
Ceramic Front- HP+ Rear (much better performance, noisy)
HPS Front- HP+ Rear (best performance, noisy)

Also, any with the HP+ in the rear will sacrifice quietness and cleanliness, but give you the best stopping performance. The HPS in the rear seems to give you the best all around package. Agreed?

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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I like the idea of HPS in front and HP+ in the rear.

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ender View Post
I like the idea of HPS in front and HP+ in the rear.
When I had the ceramics in front and HP+ in back, it was NOISY beyond tolerable. This is just a heads up. I loved the performance, but I could not take the noise, especially between stop signs and traffic lights. People would turn and stare, not because of the car, but because of the noise from the HP+ pads in the rear. For the track, though, it is perfect and noone cares about noise.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
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What sort of SOLO do you mean? Autocross or Road Race style Time Trials/Time Attack? 'Cause after a few warmup laps on a road race track, my stock pads faded like red Vega in Arizona!

Russ
Autocross. After about 150 total runs on the stock pads there was still plenty of material left but I had KILLED them. The front stock pads were slowly disintegrating. I keep a handheld IR temp gun with me that goes to 500 degree f. It can't read the fronts in the summer after a couple runs!! When I hose down the tires I just SOAK the calipers, disks, and rims, and THEN I start spraying the treads. Before people start fainting, NO ill effects at all.

YES, the Plus pads are noisy, and the hotter they get the noisier they get. And they will most certainly wear the rotors. Good news, they aren't expensive.

p.s. ANY highly metalized pad is going to be noisy. TURN UP THE RADIO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That fixes any rattles, too.

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Last edited by snaponbob; 09-24-2008 at 12:36 PM.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, that makes sense. Yeah, even the mild stock pads can handle a minute or so on an Autocross course.

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 12:50 PM
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Ah, that makes sense. Yeah, even the mild stock pads can handle a minute or so on an Autocross course.
The stock pads will work for a while, but once one starts really pushing the envelope on Hoosiers they WILL fade. And, boy the ABS software is easily confused with gumballs and more aggressive pads. More than a few times I have had an inside front LOCK UP !!!! Not often, but it happens. It just seems that the system reacts too slowly sometimes. Others have confirmed my impressions. No biggie, because if one locks, I have gone too deep !!!!!!!!!!

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 09:35 PM
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Just installed HPS front and rear and new hook slot rotors from DDMWorks. Still running my Falken Ziex 612s. Pretty sweet. I've never felt a car stop so well. Looks great too.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 11:43 AM
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Okay, so I have a question related to my latest install.

On the old rotors and pads, the fronts developed a line around them. It happened after racing at Hallett MRC. I figured it was because I cooked the brake pads.

I have installed the new Hawk HPS pads, front and rear; and now the line is back on the fronts, even with the new pads and rotors installed. Any ideas?

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSUCherokee View Post
Okay, so I have a question related to my latest install.

On the old rotors and pads, the fronts developed a line around them. It happened after racing at Hallett MRC. I figured it was because I cooked the brake pads.

I have installed the new Hawk HPS pads, front and rear; and now the line is back on the fronts, even with the new pads and rotors installed. Any ideas?
Picture Please

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 02:49 PM
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Fronts:

Rears:

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 03:00 PM
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Smile

Guess...Just a guess
If your pads have a slot in the center pad material, it has filled up with crud when you bedded them in. I had this happen on some ceramics that I used. Took them out and cleaned the slot and they were fine. HTH

YMMV

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolNut View Post
Guess...Just a guess
If your pads have a slot in the center pad material, it has filled up with crud when you bedded them in. I had this happen on some ceramics that I used. Took them out and cleaned the slot and they were fine. HTH

YMMV
Sounds good. I'll take a look.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-15-2014, 02:32 PM
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Problem seems to have resolved itself with some more hard breaking. Probably just needed to to get seated a little better.

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-15-2018, 08:47 AM
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Just swapped my pads out for HPS front, HP+ back. Super easy, although I have a brake caliper tool for the rears. Also it's odd that the rear caliper bolts require a 7mm hex rather than a normal bolt.

Final comment: I didn't bother with a bleed and catch when I compressed the rears and some fluid shot out of the reservoir. Oops. Next time I'll change that one up.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:30 PM
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I looked for a thread describing how to install brake pads and couldn't find a detailed step by step description with photos. I did find a good post by Miles from the Tire Rack and used that, plus the service manual to do it. So I decided to document it more here. Please pardon this thread if this has already been done.
........
7. Now for the rear pads. Place chocks around the front tires and jack the rear of the car up via one of the aft lower A-Arm supports. Remove the wheels.

8. Pop off the front spring using a screwdriver at the spots circled.


9. Pop the plugs off the allen bolts/pins.


10. Unscrew the pins using a 7mm allen socket. You don't need to pull them all the way out, just out enough to pull the caliper free.


11. The pads practically fall out. Compress the piston, not by simply screwing it down with the C-Clamp, but by using a tool to screw the piston in. I used needle nose pliers, but there are proper tools for this. Apply pressure as you turn the piston. I found that clockwise worked. I also used the C-Clamp for just a tiny bit of compression as specified in the manual. 1mm.


12. Refitting the pads is a bit tricky since they want to fall out. With one hand holding the caliper use a finger or thumb to hold the inner pad (the one with the spring along the top edge) in place. At the same time, hold the outer pad in the frame against the rotor. The caliper should be be able to slide in place easily. Watch that the pins don't get in the way.

13. Torque the pins to 20 ft-lbs. and replace the plastic caps. Also work the outer spring back in place.

14. Remount the wheels, torque to 100 ft-lbs.

15. Before driving, pump the brakes ......
Hi ender, WRT rear caliper/pads, is there any place to lubricate? Didn't see that mentioned in steps 7 thru 15..... Also the photos aren't visible to me, even after logging in. I've removed one rear caliper and it's not obvious to me what, if anything, I should lube.

Last edited by 2seater; 05-13-2019 at 02:31 PM. Reason: typos
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