Skid plate - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Skid plate

With the ~1.25" drop I have on the coilovers, my PWerks Really Big Intercooler sits about 3" of the ground.

This is a bit anxiety-inducing. Earlier today, I was pulling into a parking garage that had a somewhat steep approach angle. The sound of metal on concrete is not a happy one.

There was a thread awhile back about protecting the intercooler. Any suggestions?

I could always put it on hinges. Sure, the charge pipes would get mangled and pop off, but they're significantly cheaper than a new intercooler.

Or, I could mount my spare swaybar in front of and below it. Maybe put some little wheels on the bottom. Ha.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 12:39 PM
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I would make some type of a skid plate . Home Depot sells sheets of different types of metal at a reasonable cost make a template out of cardboard and locate mounting points and that should solve your problem to some degree don't really know about the hinges . All you will really need in the way of tools are the basics and an angle grinder with a cut off wheel if you don't have one Harbor Freight has them for not much money .
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 03:30 PM
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Raise the car?

A skid plate is going to have to be able to support the front of the car, so sheet metal isn't going to work. It will also have to be ski-shaped at the front, or have wheels to keep it from digging into the ground.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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All good points. But, I like my skis, and my car is not an Esprit.

I think it would be better to just raise the intercooler. That's going to require a bit of fabrication, but nothing impossible. (Raising the car sort of defeats half of the purpose of the struts. If I had my way, the CG would be 10 feet underground.)

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
If I had my way, the CG would be 10 feet underground.
It'd be a disaster! You'd lean the wrong way in corners!

I would pay good money to watch.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
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All good points. But, I like my skis, and my car is not an Esprit.

I think it would be better to just raise the intercooler. That's going to require a bit of fabrication, but nothing impossible. (Raising the car sort of defeats half of the purpose of the struts. If I had my way, the CG would be 10 feet underground.)
Yeah, didn't think you would go for that idea. Although, when I read the post title I thought I had stumbled into a Jeep forum, and raising would fit right in.....
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Originally Posted by phil1734 View Post
It'd be a disaster! You'd lean the wrong way in corners!

I would pay good money to watch.
I had that same image....talk about a strange situation.

How much-if any-fresh air does the radiator need? In stock configuration there is a pretty good sized gap between the top of the intercooler and the top of the air passage. Raising it will eliminate the gap. Is that a concern?

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 08:13 PM
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I put a nylon wear plate on the bottom. The kind that is on the face of a table saw fence. You can buy them in different sizes. Makes the bottom impervious to scraping. You can still crush it. Raising it sounds like the best solution
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 08:16 AM
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I actually i went the other way i had Dave from DDM raise mine slightly after he installed the coilovers as i don't want to end up replacing the larger intercooler he installed. I like the look of lowering it but had to think it through that for me its more practical . Just my opinion.

Last edited by easyryderca; 01-15-2019 at 08:19 AM.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 08:36 AM
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When I did my suspensions I was careful to match the after mod height with the original stock ride height. No amount of 'looking tough' is worth trashing the underside of your car on speed bumps and rough streets (dropping one front wheel in a deep pothole can ruin your whole day).

I used to race against guys that went for the low look (this was road racing, and they should have known better) and by lowering by cutting springs etc. they took the suspension out of the best range for avoiding bump steer and also would hit the bump stops on hard bumps in the track and the second you do that you effectively have no suspension and the car can jump sideways a foot or two.

My car with more or less optimized ride height had none of those problems.

To each his own - it is amazing what people will do with their cars (far beyond just lowering them too much) for what they think looks cool.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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@wspohn I honestly don't care much how it looks (though it does look cool). This is about lowing the center of gravity, which has a noticeable impact on the track.

This car does about 40% track and 60% street. Every modification I've made on these cars is at least intended to enhance performance (or to replace panels destroyed in the storm).

The nylon plate isn't a terrible idea - sort of like ablative armor. But, I think raising the intercooler is the way to go. Looks like I have to yank the front bumper off again and get a new wheel for my angle grinder. Woohoo!

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 09:13 AM
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I'd suggest that you go do some laps with the car lowered and repeat that at stock or slightly lower than stock height. We found on the cars that I was running that having the proper suspension settings was much more important than dropping the car an inch - lap times showed no improvement lowered. Maybe your results would prove otherwise on your car - it would be interesting to know!

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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I don't want to discount your experience, but I ran the '06 for a few years before upgrading the struts. Body roll is significantly reduced. Lower CG leads to improved traction. Being closer to the ground means the car "floats" less at speed.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Overall, it feels a lot better. Lowering, on its own, won't make a huge difference, but, in combination with better swaybars, struts, etc., I think it does. (That said, I don't have any hard data on this. It's just my impression of the car before & after.)

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 10:17 AM
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just mount the IC on top like a subaru
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 06:04 AM
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I know this isn't what you're looking for but....I bet a couple of spanner wrenches could help!
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:30 AM
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Was the garage entry lane so narrow that you could not drive slowly at an angle to have just one tire at a time traverse the low spot?
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