2008 GM Tuned Solstice GXP Issues - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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2008 GM Tuned Solstice GXP Issues

I am having this on going issued with my 2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP GM Tuned. It only has 8,000 original miles. Mainly garage kept. The issue is when i am driving the car, the car will suddenly lose power. No check engine light will be thrown but I get a code of P0101. I have changed the MAP sensor, air filter, checked the intake, etc. Today was especially interesting. I was going good and then I down shifted and lost power. The engine was causing the car to jerk and again no check engine light. When i go to read the codes there are tons regarding cylinder misfires, etc...

I am baffled about what is really going on here. I have plans to take to the dealer today. However, the last time I took it they had it for 4 days. Their solution was to erase the codes, take it for a quick drive, and tell me nothing is wrong. Now I know how to reproduce the issues and I am hoping to the get the service guy to take a ride with me so I can show him exactly what is going on. This is so frustrating.

David

p.s. could this be the wastegate?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:27 PM
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P0101 MAF Circuit Range/Performance

Basically, this says that the signal from the MAF is out of the expected voltage range. That could be due to a bad MAF (NOT MAP) sensor, wiring between the ECM and the sensor (aka, a broken or failing connection), or a dirty MAF. It is not related to MAP sensors, air filter, wastegate, or any of the other things you mentioned.

The FSM has a pretty thorough test procedure for the MAF sensor. I don't have mine handy. Perhaps some other kind soul will post it here. I'd test the sensor before swapping out any more perfectly good parts.

A bad MAF can easily contribute to misfires. If it's providing bogus readings, the ECM will not inject the correct amount of fuel. You might just try unplugging the MAF. That *may* make the ECM go open loop. Rather than assuming that bad data from the MAF is reliable, it might just guess, which would be better. I haven't tried that, but the software is bound to have some sort of fallback mode for the case where the sensor is bad.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces

Last edited by raygun; 03-27-2019 at 01:34 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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I am sorry but I replace the MAF not the MAP sensor. I said the wrong thing. But I will look at the wiring.


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Originally Posted by raygun View Post
P0101 MAF Circuit Range/Performance

Basically, this says that the signal from the MAF is out of the expected voltage range. That could be due to a bad MAF (NOT MAP) sensor, wiring between the ECM and the sensor (aka, a broken or failing connection), or a dirty MAF. It is not related to MAP sensors, air filter, wastegate, or any of the other things you mentioned.

The FSM has a pretty thorough test procedure for the MAF sensor. I don't have mine handy. Perhaps some other kind soul will post it here.

A bad MAF can easily contribute to misfires. If it's providing bogus readings, the ECM will not inject the correct amount of fuel.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:35 PM
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Interesting.

Are there any other codes?

Do you happen to have access to HP Tuners or another scanner than can display the MAF signal (voltage)? That would be invaluable.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:41 PM
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Here's some potentially helpful information from https://www.obd-codes.com/p0101

Basically, this says: look for vacuum leaks and examine the wiring harness.

Possible diagnostic and repair steps include:
* Visually inspect all MAF sensor wiring and connectors to make sure they are intact, not frayed, broken, routed too close to ignition wires/coils, relays, motors, etc.

* Visually inspect for any obvious air leaks in the air intake system Visually *closely* inspect the MAF sensor wires or film to see if you can see contamination such as dirt, dust, oil, etc.

* If the air filter is dirty, replace it

* Carefully clean the MAF using MAF cleaner spray is generally a good DIY friendly diagnostic/repair step

* If the air intake system has a mesh in it, make sure that is also clean (VWs mainly)

* Loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can trigger this DTC

* A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.

* Use a scan tool to monitor real-time sensor values from the MAF sensor, O2 sensors, etc.

* Check for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for your particular make/model in case of known issues on your vehicle

* The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON.

* A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set

* Do an exhaust backpressure test to determine if the catalytic converter may be clogged



Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hi raygun... thanks for your help and responses. When I down shifted this last time, that's when I got several codes most focusing on cylinder misfires plus the P0101. I wish I had my camera to take pics because I was on the road and unless I cleared the codes, the car was limping along. The interesting part is once I clear the codes, it goes back to normal until it does its thing.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:08 PM
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well...
before you do the hard stuff, you better check the easy stuff...

When the GMPP first came out, during the installation, some wires would be crimped.
Over time, the crimp gave out causing all sorts of grief.
These wires need to be soldered.

My adventure here -> https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...dering-133402/

Over time, later installations used a pig-tail...

Lots of stories on this forum over the GMPP.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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I reviewed what you suggested and look what I found on my GM Tuned MAP sensors. I don't know if it's because since it has the GM tune it didn't need it or what.

one of the wires not attached when installed
http://i67.tinypic.com/2iw4zm1.jpg

the other one
http://i65.tinypic.com/flz06.jpg
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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I apologize. I guess back in 2012 I posted about this very problem. I guess I need to solder those connections in the picture.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like I need to do some soldering Thank you. Also, I checked the waste gate factory position ... I noticed it was altered a bit so i reset that. Took it for a test drive and seems to be running good with no issues. Knock on wood. Will do soldering tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sirwm View Post
well...
before you do the hard stuff, you better check the easy stuff...

When the GMPP first came out, during the installation, some wires would be crimped.
Over time, the crimp gave out causing all sorts of grief.
These wires need to be soldered.

My adventure here -> https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...dering-133402/

Over time, later installations used a pig-tail...

Lots of stories on this forum over the GMPP.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 08:53 AM
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If I recall correctly, those sensors only use three of the pins in the connector.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 11:50 AM
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Makes me think that the $100 for ZZ Performance MAP sensors and plug and play wire harnesses, was well spent!

2008 GXP Aggressive Red - SOL LVR - Trifecta custom tune - DDM CAI/charge tubes/silicone hoses - Werks IC - Solo Hi-flow Cat/Mach Shorty exhaust - DDM Probeam/Backbone/Venom brace - Short throw shifter - Full LED conversion - Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Well... I have been beating this car to death since last night. After readjusting the waste gate back to what I think is "factory setting." Everything seems to be fine. Knock on Wood. Thank you lord. I still need to follow your advice RayGUn and solder it. I am back in love with my solstice again. I was ready to trade it in for another sports car. Saved me a lot of money
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatgab View Post
Makes me think that the $100 for ZZ Performance MAP sensors and plug and play wire harnesses, was well spent!
Unfortunately, if you were an early adopter of the GMMP tune, you can't retrofit the newer adapter to it. I'm still crimped, but will probable get around to soldering mine someday.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 01:44 PM
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Well, you could always solder the original connector back onto the engine harness, and THEN use the adapter cables.

If you're really, really, really bored.
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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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