GMPP tune install tomorrow - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
Think about using NLS....the clutches are a weaker part of the transmission in these cars.... just a warning if you don't mind spending $2500 on a clutch. And since I haven't introduced myself yet....I'm the "negative nelly" of the forum.... I'll tell you not to do something because it'll cost you more money most of the time.

Okay, man - how on earth does one spend TWENTY FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS on a clutch?!?! My whole car was only $6500. (Not counting the subsequent $15k in "must haves"...)
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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:17 AM
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NLS shift is nice. I used it once. Big deal. Novelty 99.9999% of the time, but features are nice.

I enjoyed the GMPP tune a lot. Probably going to do it again.

Driving and working on a Sly 2008 Solstice GXP 5spd 260/260, and the worst-built 2012 LS3 Camaro 1SS to escape from Oshawa.

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Stored and needing to part ways with a 1970 Skylark Custom convertible I have owned since 1989 and turned into a GS455 clone. 462 with 7/8 primary headers, adjustable roller rockers, TA Performance Stage 1 aluminum heads, auto, Chevy 12 bolt, 3.31:1. Sadly a project car now but a driver from '89 to '06.
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
Okay, man - how on earth does one spend TWENTY FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS on a clutch?!?! My whole car was only $6500. (Not counting the subsequent $15k in "must haves"...)
You should see how much some people have invested just into brakes!

2008 GXP Aggressive Red - SOL LVR - Trifecta custom switchable tune - DDM CAI/charge tubes/silicone hoses - Werks IC - Solo Hi-flow Cat/Mach Shorty exhaust - DDM Probeam/Backbone/Venom brace - Sprint Booster - Short throw shifter - Full LED conversion w/pulsating third brake light and sequential turn signals - SaddlX & GearTripR center console - Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:55 AM
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I had the GMPP tune for a few weeks after I bought my car (new) until the day after it came off warranty, when I installed a Trifecta tune that gave whole bunch more. I'd have gone straight to the second tune if warranty hadn't been an issue, but many are happy with the GMPP forever after.

I'd forget about the no lift shift unless you are manic street racer or do bracket racing on weekends.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatgab View Post
You should see how much some people have invested just into brakes!


Yeah. My brakes were a little over $3200.


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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:51 PM
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But, the spec clutch and aluminum flywheel were about a grand IIRC. Nowhere near $2500.


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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
But, the spec clutch and aluminum flywheel were about a grand IIRC. Nowhere near $2500.


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Dealer world.....about 15-18 hours IMSMC..that's over $2k at most dealerships right there...let alone parts. And IMSMC I remember parts at the dealer level were about $800 for just the clutch kit...that wasn't bearing, slave or anything to do with the flywheel....

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ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
.about 15-18 hours IMSMC
Well, thar's yer problum'.

Remove shifter, lift car, remove starter, disconnect hydraulics and wiring harness, remove catback, remove driveshaft, support transmission, remove engine-to-transmission bolts, remove transmission mount bolts, slide it back and drop it. Remove pressure plate bolts, and clutch, remove flywheel bolts and flywheel. Installation is the reverse of removal, plus bleeding and minimal first aid time.

I can see that being a ~10 hour job on a lift, but 18? :/

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 12:02 PM
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That's GM book time. And I haven't been at it found a dealer yet across the country that doesnt go by book time.

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Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 01:10 PM
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That's GM book time. And I haven't been at it found a dealer yet across the country that doesnt go by book time.
"Book time" for automotive repair has to be in the all-time top five list of consumer rip-offs. I know almost all bill this way, but sheesh, what a disingenuous way to treat customers: "We bill by the hour, but not the actual hours we work on your car...imaginary hours from a book of fiction."
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorennerol View Post
"Book time" for automotive repair has to be in the all-time top five list of consumer rip-offs. I know almost all bill this way, but sheesh, what a disingenuous way to treat customers: "We bill by the hour, but not the actual hours we work on your car...imaginary hours from a book of fiction."
You should probably do a bit of research before you make a nonsense statement like that. Do you even know how these "hours" are created for book time? You probably have no clue. Do you know that they take an experienced tech, and a brand new vehicle to calculate this? So the bolts come out easy...there's no rust and no chance of spinning a head off a bolt. His tools are all the best in the industry and are are layed out in perfect order and most are provided for him and it usually includes an assitant to help him with tools. Then they start a stop watch when he picks up his first tool. They don't stop till he stops. They do add a bit of a cushion...but it's nominal. Of course this time they create doesn't include time to work on your nasty, rusted, bolt broken off, stripped out vehicle. These are brand new, right off the assembly line vehicles. So in the dealership, if the book time says it takes 12.5 hours...he might finish in 10, he might take 20. And he doesn't get paid for the extra 7.5 hours it took him to drill out that broken bolt and rethread it.... Sure, there are some super techs that turn 60+ hours working 40 hours, but in all of the dealerships I've been in in my career (over 250!!) I've met 3 that are capable of this. I've also seen shop time (true time) from shops in Europe....you don't want shop time...trust me. Because shop time starts when they punch the clock on your car and punch the clock when they're done with your car. It includes their bathroom breaks, coffee...running to the parts counter...training to fix your issue, etc. Let's not even get into the fact that techs have to spend $50k+ for their own tools because the dealer doesn't provide them for them. And then there are the medical issues with cuts, smashed fingers, bad backs and hips these guys all have later in life. Or better yet, a tech I saw carried away by ambulance because a scalding hot radiator blew the cap off and gave him burns all over his entire body. His face melted off in front of me. And then there is cancer because they're working with something that causes cancer almost every day. So why don' you try and take an unknown possible 5%, 20%, 40% pay cut from what you should be paid each week... If they don't turn 40 hours that week because of a stuck bolt, their kids might not eat. Oh...and by the way, warranty time is even less. So remember that next time you take your car in for a warranty repair.
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Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 05:04 PM
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FWIW, I have personally known mechanics that beat the book consistently, but you might not approve of their methods...

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:17 PM
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@The_Ghost

Iíve heard the same thing regarding how book hours are calculated from a friend who is a Mercedes tech. (He said they do it three times, though, and take the average.) and, youíre right: the job is risky, both medically and financially.

But, Iím having trouble rectifying that with the idea of 15-20 hours for a clutch on these cars. The thing just isnít that complex. Iíve done a clutch on jack stands in far less time. Swapping an entire engine in this car doesnít take 20 hours.






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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:26 PM
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Brethren,
I have too many memories in the past of friends trying to power shift without using the clutch with disastrous results to show for So for me it's, clutch, shift,release .

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:38 PM
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NLS still uses the clutch. You just donít lift off of the throttle.


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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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