The most direct path to the valves without removing the manifold is via the port that connects to the brake booster. There is a barbed fitting that threads into the intake manifold body, with a large hose that goes to the booster.
The correct way to clean the valves is to remove the intake manifold. I walnut blasted, but it's a messy process. You can also use chemical or other mechanical means to get rid of the carbon buildup. Going in via the evap solenoid isn't something that I see working very well.
Removing the intake manifold isn't difficult. The first time it took me about an hour. Now it's a 15 minute process. There are a couple of brackets under the manifold that are conveniently painted black. They're difficult to get out of the way.
Things can be made easier by removing not only the manifold-to-head bolts, but the studs, as well. The head of the studs require a female Torx bit to remove. It is NOT a regular hex pattern. Attempting to use a regular socket will strip the heads.
Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders
'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
Last edited by raygun; 09-10-2019 at 08:47 AM.