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Modifications

20K views 88 replies 17 participants last post by  JohnWR 
#1 ·
I'm currently adding further modifications to my GXP. I've replaced the silicone turbo pipes with mandrel bent aluminum, put in a Performance Werks intercooler, Solo Mach Exhaust, GMPP tune and upgrades with both front and back cross-member stabilizers and .25" tunnel brace. I also put on a set of 18x8.5 wheels from Stern (before they went out of business) and had them powder-coated to match the silver of the front wind screen and M bar. It's shod with 18x255/35 rubber. I'm putting in Comp Cams stage II cams, Opel injectors, improved high pressure direct injection fuel pump and BC Racing Coilovers. Then it is off to Performance Werks up near Chicago to add a methanol injection system, large impeller turbo and blow-off valve and then have it tuned.

I've had the car since it was new as my wife had bought it for me as a birthday/Christmas present in 2007. I was born on Dec 23, 1946. My health had be keeping from working on my 1969 Opel GT project car and she bought it so I would have something to drive to shows and do solo and rally racing as well as attend car shows. It is Mean Yellow and has just over 46,000 miles.

Next year I plan on putting on some aero packages and removing all emblems. It will be painted Cadillac Black Diamond with all black intakes and splinters painted to match the silver around the front wind screen and M bar.

Have fun and wish me luck!
 
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#62 ·
Your using the LT HPFP and a 5th injector?
 
#63 · (Edited)
I'm using the higher capacity HPFP from ZZPerformance and the 5th Injector Kit from PerformanceAutoWerks.

I just got the Kappasphere rear frame brace back as it had to be repowdercoated. I had installed a PAWerks rear frame brace in the mean time. I will be putting the Kapasphere up for sale on eBay sometime next week unless someone on the forum wants to PM me and negotiate a price. I will be listing it the proper forum shortly.
 
#64 ·
The zzp pump should provide more than enough fuel.

Why the 5th injector also?
 
#65 ·
Just insurance against coking of the intake valves. This adventure all started when I was having fluttering turbo issues and thought is was because of valve coking. But when we got into it after welding in the bung for the 5th injector we found that it was actually caused by the flanges on both the turbo and and exhaust manifold being cracked an leaking boost. The intake valves were actually clean.

Randy
 
#66 ·
The center “fin” on the turbo and manifold always crack


That’s normal and doesn’t effect operation
 
#67 ·
It was the flanges of the mating surfaces between the turbo and exhaust manifold not the divider. The crack was all the through to the outer surface of both the turbo and the exhaust manifold. Boost was blowing out the crack rather than going into the charge tubes. I know about the divider issue.

Randy
 
#68 ·
If it was the exhaust housing cracked...

Boost wouldn’t leak

Just exhaust gases

Boost is only on the compressor side
 
#74 ·
That brace is not new, it was designed many years ago by Dave. By the way IT IS NOT A STRUT Brace, our cars do not have struts.
 
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#79 ·
I am telling Dave at PWERKS it is not a strut system on our cars. Also the CAD simulation that Dave at DDM performed, did not show any or much difference between that brace and the Venom brace.
 
#86 ·
Norm is backed up with painting. It only took 2 weeks to get the 1/4 panels and front diffuser from him. I will be painting them in house.

Norm is still working on the ducktail spoiler design. I was wondering if anyone can recommend another supplier for a rear spoiler that installs on the bumper and if you have to do much work taking off the factory one.

Randy
 
#88 ·
Wow, a new look for the site. Been slowly working on my Solstice preparing to install new front 1/4 panels and front splitter. On my way to a speed/custom shop got temperature overheating light. As the switch for the information has been acting flaky it took awhile to switch to the temperature panel. It was reading 260 degrees, I pulled over turned on the heater full blast and popped the hood. The damn cooling fan wasn't running. After it dropped to about 240 it came back on and continued to run but would shut off as soon as the car was shut off even though it was still reading over 220. (I had been running at 75 with air on on highway with top up) After leaving the shop limped into the dealer that I had purchased the car from. They were unable to look into things so had to leave the car there and call for a pickup. Next day they said there were no codes but it could be one of 2 issues: a recall that placed valves into the inlet and exit lines near the radiator to prevent air being trapped in the lines (I ruled that out as the fan wasn't running) or needing a new fan unit. They tried to tell me I had to order the entire fan unit as there was no relay (which was my old school thought). That runs 513+ if you can even find one still in GM inventory. With the strike going on who knows when that would come in. I decided to pick the car up and come home. Car did get over 220 on the drive home. Doing a little digging I determined that you can order the control module aftermarket for just over 100. It's the same as what's used on v8 Crown Vics from 2006-2011. Go figure, ordered from local O'Reilly's and got it the next day. Took 5 minutes to install. Haven't had an issue yet but then the humidity hasn't been over 100% and 90+ degrees lately. Have yet to see the temp go over 204 even when driving the car hard. Hope that was the issue. Anyone else have trouble with the fan module?

Will keep you posted once the new body panels are on!

Randy
 
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