Starting issue - help? - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #31 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 08:06 PM
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Whether or not the radio goes off will help pinpoint the problem, as the radio should go off while cranking. If it does not go off the problem is in the ignition switch contact that commands the BCM to operate the starter. If the radio does go off the command is being sent, but either the starter relay in the underhood fuse block or the starter itself are sticking.

I would turn the ignition on and make sure the radio is on, then turn the key to crank and check to see if it goes off while the key is in that position.

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post #32 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
Whether or not the radio goes off will help pinpoint the problem, as the radio should go off while cranking. If it does not go off the problem is in the ignition switch contact that commands the BCM to operate the starter. If the radio does go off the command is being sent, but either the starter relay in the underhood fuse block or the starter itself are sticking.

I would turn the ignition on and make sure the radio is on, then turn the key to crank and check to see if it goes off while the key is in that position.
Thank you. Will do this and report back tomorrow.👍

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post #33 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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JohnWR,
Turned her to on and KENWOOD unit was on. Cranked her and KENWOOD goes off.

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Last edited by Northern Sol; 07-01-2019 at 09:08 AM.
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post #34 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 12:01 PM
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That is what should happen. Did that also happen when the engine didn't crank?

If the radio goes off when the key is turned to crank, the switch is OK. If it doesn't the switch has a problem.

Now I think it is down to the crank relay in the UFB and the starter itself. I would first reseat all of the fuses and relays in the UFB.

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post #35 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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That is what should happen. Did that also happen when the engine didn't crank?

If the radio goes off when the key is turned to crank, the switch is OK. If it doesn't the switch has a problem.

Now I think it is down to the crank relay in the UFB and the starter itself. I would first reseat all of the fuses and relays in the UFB.
Yes. When the engine did not crank everything went off. Gauge cluster and radio. So, you are ruling out the battery?
Appreciate your help and knowledge on this. I will be taking her into my dealership this Wednesday and I now feel much more informed.👍

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post #36 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:13 PM
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I'm not sure that I would ever completely rule out anything, but this does not appear to me to be battery.

A sticking relay seems the most likely to me, but a corroded battery connector is always a possibility.

The only way to narrow it from here is going to be voltage measurements at various places, preferably while it doesn't crank.

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post #37 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure that I would ever completely rule out anything, but this does not appear to me to be battery.

A sticking relay seems the most likely to me, but a corroded battery connector is always a possibility.

The only way to narrow it from here is going to be voltage measurements at various places, preferably while it doesn't crank.
Ok. Thanks again. I will go armed with this info and have them investigate. I will report back with outcome.

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post #38 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 12:40 PM
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CLUTCH SWITCH!

There is a switch on your clutch pedal mechanism that must be made before the starter will engage. This is to keep your car from "lurching" forward or backward if you're in gear and the starter is engaged - you have to have the clutch fully depressed. When these switches start to go bad (or out of position, but usually bad) the contacts will not be made cleanly and repeatably. This is why sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.
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post #39 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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CLUTCH SWITCH!

There is a switch on your clutch pedal mechanism that must be made before the starter will engage. This is to keep your car from "lurching" forward or backward if you're in gear and the starter is engaged - you have to have the clutch fully depressed. When these switches start to go bad (or out of position, but usually bad) the contacts will not be made cleanly and repeatably. This is why sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.
I will bring this up at the dealership tomorrow morning. Thank you and JohnWR.

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post #40 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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The Winner is?????

Chicken Wire. They have diagnosed it as a CLUTCH SWITCH. $12.00 part that they have to get from USA. Will take a week and a bit to get here. Having two Sols is paying off!!!!! I am bringing her home until part comes in. They have quoted hour and a half of labour. Looks like it will be around $200 total so not bad. Thanks again to everyone for their help on this and major kudos to JohnWR and Chickenwire.👍
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post #41 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 04:48 PM
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Good news. I'm glad that they found the problem so quickly. I am curious though, did the dealer call it a clutch switch? It is actually an analog position sensor.

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post #42 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Good news. I'm glad that they found the problem so quickly. I am curious though, did the dealer call it a clutch switch? It is actually an analog position sensor.
I called it a clutch switch and they rolled with me. They did a search for the part and as I mentioned they had to order from USA. It is a back order here. They did not charge me for today and did a tire and fluid check to boot. I am going to mention to my service advisor that it is an “analog position sensor” just to be sure.
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Last edited by Northern Sol; 07-03-2019 at 05:12 PM.
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post #43 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:40 PM
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I called it a clutch switch and they rolled with me. They did a search for the part and as I mentioned they had to order from USA. It is a back order here. They did not charge me for today and did a tire and fluid check to boot. I am going to mention to my service advisor that it is an “analog position sensor” just to be sure.
I really expect that they will know that, since one step in the installation is to calibrate it, which would not be needed for a switch.

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post #44 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Sol View Post
Chicken Wire. They have diagnosed it as a CLUTCH SWITCH. $12.00 part that they have to get from USA. Will take a week and a bit to get here. Having two Sols is paying off!!!!! I am bringing her home until part comes in. They have quoted hour and a half of labour. Looks like it will be around $200 total so not bad. Thanks again to everyone for their help on this and major kudos to JohnWR and Chickenwire.👍
Glad you found the solution. For $200.00 I'd come up to the great white north and change it out for you! lol

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post #45 of 59 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 03:07 PM
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I really expect that they will know that, since one step in the installation is to calibrate it, which would not be needed for a switch.
John - is it a "proximity" sensor? Honestly I understand the function of the "switch" but didn't know if it was a physical "switch" or a sensor.

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