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Took The Sky Redline To The Dragstrip (Cecil County) Friday (9/28/2018)

5K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  marksbug 
#1 ·
So I decided to take the sky to Cecil County md dragstrip Friday. I only got three runs in and I was chasing the right "tune" with the wot box. It was strange and I never thought I would say this but the traction was too good! I had the wot box set at 3000rpms for two runs and it fell on its face allowing only a 14.1 and 14.2. Third run I upped it to 4000rpms and got some spin which helped. It was also my best run at 13.68. This was with a trifecta budget tune as well.

With more time I know I can get it way down but this is the first time Ive run a rear wheel drive and sky down a dragstrip. I definitely believe with more tuning of the WOT Box (Launch settings and no lift shift delay settings) I could do much better. Here are the vids:

This was the best time
https://youtu.be/pvj__ZRU9Bw

Two 14 second runs:
https://youtu.be/3mYa-4b7xhU

https://youtu.be/YdobvDOeTE8
 
#3 ·
i did my share back in younger days. mostly on the back roads though. :cool:

had a couple of fast cars that handled like crap. then a long succession of slow mini vans that handled like crap.

my sol is fast enough to scare me. but the handling is just so impressive. even before the brace bundle.

for me it's become all about finding a curvy road and trying to defy the laws of physics.
 
#4 ·
There's a severe lack of enthusiasm for most things performance related on this forum. Most of the guys (and a few gals) that are still active seem content with bolting on some mods and staring at their car in the garage on sunny days that have no chance of rain.

If you want/need to discuss performance stuff you're better off doing it on Facebook in the Classifieds & Tech group or other pages.
 
#6 ·
The car was never build for drag racing. It was build for driving, enjoying twisty roads or canyons. Also as an open air (convertible) to enjoy top down while you drive.
Can you take it to the drag strip sure, but it will not perform that well even though the HP is there to get you some 12.9 or low 13's.
 
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#7 ·
"Doesn't perform well at the strip"? Speak for yourself.

Currently very close to having mine in the 10s. It will run 1.6 60ft times all day long with a best of 1.5. Working right now on improving that. Im waiting on my 6L90 valve body to return from having a trans brake installed. In the meantime Ive wired up a 2 step rev limiter. The combo should make for a better launch and quicker ETs.

Ive done AutoX, rally and road racing. Getting a street car down a 1/4 mile fast isn't as easy as a bunch of these guys seem to think it is. Mechanically there is way more involved than any of the other motorsports Ive been involved in. And if you don't think it takes skill to drive in a straight line hit up a no-prep race sometime.
 
#9 ·
Did you understand he has an LS3 motor under the hood and not the standard 4 cyl turbo?. So yes I speak for myself.
 
#10 ·
Here's what people don't really think about.....

Even though it's not "made for drag racing," it doesn't mean it wasn't by accident made with the ability to be a good drag car.

How many cars do you know that run a 14 flat from the factory and with $400 in mods can get into the 12s? Seriously, for a $400 e47 tune from trifecta this car makes enough power to run in the 12s. Bun1T was able to get 12.5s for example. There aren't many cars that can do that. My 93 probe gt I needed to spend like $5,000 just to get it into the 13s. THAT wasn't made for drag racing.

I get much more of a thrill out of drag racing than I do any other type.
 
#14 ·
Not at all, I was just wondering what your basis for comparison was. You've tried them all and prefer a different sector of the sport to me, but to each his own (I'm an old road racer).
 
#17 ·
Read his signature and you will see it.
 
#18 ·
My engine swap not withstanding, Ive done very little to the suspension. Probably less than most AutoX`ers. It pulls very respectable 60ft times and launches straight as an arrow. Which simply proves it is a very good performing car regardless of how you want to race it. And there are plenty of guys who have taken the turbo LNF into the 12s, a few into the 11s. There is one twin turbo LS Sky I know of that has run 9s (not sure I have the guts to push any Sky/Solstice that far).
 
#19 · (Edited)
Matt,

Most serious stick car racers will say that a radial does not work well at all with a stick. An ET street, or similar d.o.t. bias tire could be used. I understand that most of those cars work well with the tire slipping a wee bit on the hit. It's said that a radial doesn't recover well if it spins on the hit. Serious stick racers use "soft" clutches these days. A guy could abuse his street clutch to get the same effect, but that's another subject.

Here's a great forum on the subject. https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=119

Dave
p.s. - Ideally, at `102 mph, imo, your 60' times should be in the 1.9x range. A Moroso slide chart is pretty accurate, and it shows that at 102 mph, e.t. is 12.70s. [ideal chassis/tires, etc]
 
#22 ·
I bogged at 3000rpms and spun pretty well at 4000rpms so I'm thinking a 3700rpm launch would be just about perfect. It should net me about a 1.9 or 2.0 60'. Another trick I'll do if 3700rpms don't improve my 60 as much as I want will be to lower my tire pressure some. I'm going to attempt to get a sub 60' on stock tires at 29 psi (which is what I was at). If I can't after lowering to 3700rpms I'll lower the psi to about 25 psi and up the 2 steup to 4000 rpms again. If I still spin too much I'll lower the psi to about 23 or so. That should get me where I want to be. If I don't get there from just the 2step changes.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the information! I was looking at those as well. I'm going to put the two step around 3700 rpms, and make the nls around 120 mls down from 125 mls. That should help as well. We'll see. I'm probably done for this year with it though.
 
#23 ·
as long as your having fun dont worry about who replies to the thread. for me I think this is the slowest car Ive ever owned by far., but it's fun none the less.and not going to be drag racing it, Ive been a drag racer for most of my life once I got on dirt bikes long long ago. prostreet, brackets, top spartsman&promod. there is never enough power. my solstice will stay somewhat stock,just building headers and some freeer breathing.I need to swap out a rear since mine is a 06 and had almost 1/2" backlash....the car fox shows befor a year it was in for rearend issues... and agin, and again and again... apparently nothing was ever done. I dont have time to pull it and rebuild it, since this is now my daily driver and will remain as such. I do wish I had a broken spare rearend to mess with. I think Im probably going to put in the gxp 373 rear I got that was supposed to be a 391. then I can pull apart this 06 pos and see whats up. it dont ,make any noises other than the CLUNK. no wine at all. I kinda think diff was built this way.....Ill fix it., machinesy engine builder racer...I can do about any thing...execpt for drive a slug or electronic stuff.... but I did love the racepack computer on the drag car's. oh so sweet to know everything and what needs to be done to get what you want. yes my car is a NA car ..but it's pretty!!!!
good luck keep playing. if you want more... add power add a 9" and get the right gear in it for the track. hell I ran 5.38 gears on the street for almost 15 years. and loved every second of it.But the car was built for that. there are a few rules to racing. there is never enough bite, if there is too much bite there isant enough power, if you have the power and the bite tires may be too small or too big. when all that is right hold on something is going to break....thus purpose built race cars. and cracks still happen in parts . as does breakage. the key is going over everything every race after every race and before you head off to the race trying to find every posibility. do not ignore anything. or it will bit you. if you think your car is hard to nail down try a doing it with a new promod with 825+ CI 4 stages of gass. now thats fun. best to start off with something smaller like a experamential 632 3 stage motor.....with lenco crower 2 disc in a prostocker with 20 runs on it as a prostocker 500 ci .nhra car. thats where I learned how to read the computer and figure it all out. especialy the slipper clutch base&weights.oh what fun I miss it oh somuch.
 
#24 ·
dont lower psi and change the launch rpm at the same time. and some tires work better at low some better not so low and some varry on different car setups. also the way the clutch is let out affects the bite. and rearend life too. a little slip before lock up gives everything time to work instead of 1 bog 2 breakloose. for these cars that would be in the disc type. I dont know if a bleedse can be used in the clutch on these cars to "slow down" engaugemsnt a tenth or so. not delay, but rather soften the hit so you can launch higer rpm with no tire spin. dont try feathering it with your foot you will burn up the clutch... some cars with solid linkage can use a shock type cylinder on the clutch fork to slow the grab and there tunable too. then there are the slipper clutch with lots of weights&pressure you adjust.... .
 
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