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post #31 of 168 (permalink) Old 11-26-2009, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kappster
Does this apply to the 2.4 engine also?
No, just the 2.0L has the issues discussed here.

The Vac-n-Fill procedure can be used for coolant refill process on the base 2.4L engine after a coolant drain.

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post #32 of 168 (permalink) Old 11-26-2009, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Small Dealer View Post
There has been no TSB issued to cover this topic. As posted, one is expected near the end of December.

Also, the warranty excludes damaged cause by "Improper Maintenace". So the threat may not work.
What I provided the dealer is the "GM bulletin" as you provided in post #7. My appologies if this was not technically a TSB.

Seeing as how I had been to the dealer three previous times for the same issue which was not resolved until I provided your "GM bulletin" to them, they would have a hard time making the case for "Improper maintenance".... That is unless they were speaking of themselves. Sad when we have to provide the documentation to our dealers so they can perform proper maintenance and or repairs.
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post #33 of 168 (permalink) Old 11-26-2009, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpdub View Post
What I provided the dealer is the "GM bulletin" as you provided in post #7. My appologies if this was not technically a TSB.

Seeing as how I had been to the dealer three previous times for the same issue which was not resolved until I provided your "GM bulletin" to them, they would have a hard time making the case for "Improper maintenance".... That is unless they were speaking of themselves. Sad when we have to provide the documentation to our dealers so they can perform proper maintenance and or repairs.
Agreed. But since that sadly is the case, it makes the forum a fantastic resource. Glad you got the right information and they did the fix! Let us know how it turns out!

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post #34 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 06:08 AM
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So this is probably inacurate but I'll go ahead and say it. *I did the squeeze test and I did hear the sloshing. *A lot. *BUT, the more I squeezed it the less I heard it. *Probably squeezed it 30 times and then there was no air sloshing noise. *I then filled the reservior to about 4 mm above the line. *During the squeezing I was on a pretty steap incline with the front at the top of the hill.

Ever since that day, I have had instant heat, and no over heating. *Before I did this, every day I would hit at least 230 and have no heat untill the temp started dropping. *So I would suggest to everyone who is overheating just try this free "fix". *if it works, awesome, if not, you have a dirty right hand and are out no money.

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post #35 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 08:04 AM
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Any update on the new fix? Not available to dealers yet?

Current fleet:
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1971 Jensen Interceptor
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post #36 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wspohn
Any update on the new fix? Not available to dealers yet?

Racing towards the end of December, but no information has been released as of yet (12/15).

Still not showing any parts stock or parts pricing informaiton for the expected to be used parts.

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Last edited by Small Dealer; 12-15-2009 at 10:19 AM.
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post #37 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 09:51 AM
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OK, thanks.

I have an overheating condition that is very inconsistent and I am not too worried about it as I keep the DIC set on coolant temp and keep an eye on it, but I'd rather take it to the dealer when the real fix is available than twice, once to get it temporarily fixed with a coolant flush and then again when they have the valves you spoke of.

Interesting flaw in the design - my system is topped up and has never even had the cap off, with good level, yet still shows the problem. Hope the valves fix it once and for all!

Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

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post #38 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wspohn
I have an overheating condition.....
The procedure being talked about here is not expected to take care of an overheating condition, it is for "a gurgle/knock noise from the heater core area, a low/no heat condition and or the coolant temperature gauge may read high intermittently".

You should have an overheating condition checked by your dealership.

INFORMATION POSTED ON SITE
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post #39 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 12:06 PM
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So you figure that this must be improper filling from the factory?
Coolant hasn't been touched since the car was picked up from the dealer and they wouldn't have had any reason to touch it as it was sitting in their showroom as a display and was never used on the road.

Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

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post #40 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wspohn View Post
So you figure that this must be improper filling from the factory?
Coolant hasn't been touched since the car was picked up from the dealer and they wouldn't have had any reason to touch it as it was sitting in their showroom as a display and was never used on the road.
You are assuming that the dealer never opened it. Someone could have thought it looked a little low and opened the tank. Not saying it happened, but assumptions like this get a lot of people in trouble.

A few people have posted about squeezing the radiator hoses and being able to purge most of the air out of the system, perhaps you might give that shot.

The best bet would be like SD said, take it to the dealer.

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post #41 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 05:36 AM
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I originally posted about the squeezing of the radiator hose untill the sloshing noise stops. Here's an update. It's Been a month now, we have had weather from the 70's to 16 degrees. Not once did it go above 205. Heater worked every time. I'm gonna stand behind the squeez and listen method. I also did a few 1/4 mile runs back to back and temps were below 200.

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post #42 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 09:58 AM
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When this thing is off warranty, I'll be squeezing along with you, but as long as it is covered they can damned well fix it themselves (it goes in on Monday).

Imagine my delight to find a car that is designed so that the cooling system craps out if you fill it on a slope and then needs a $500 tool available only at the dealer to fix it. What next, a special $600 tool that you need to change the oil? Anything to keep you coming back?

I know that isn't the case, but this seems like something that should have been sorted out before these things made it to the showrooms, or if it didn't show up until they were in service, within a very short time thereafter. And the fix shouldn't be a special tool no one but the dealer owns, it should be some way to eliminate the problem for good, be it a new reservoir or a new mount or a new hose routing. I don't mind the crappy cup holders that self destruct that much, but silliness in necessary engine systems does tick me off a bit. Could you tell?

Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

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post #43 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:40 PM
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I appreciate your pain in the cooling system issues that many of us have/had/ or will have at some point.

Our system is sensitive to air bubbles because the top of the heater core and the reservoir are nearly at the same height. The HVAC system for the Kappas was taken from the H3 IIRC. The coolant system like the brake system is vacuum filled for this vehicle and all GM vehicles that I'm aware of. This eliminates the need to burp (or bleed) the system later in the assembly process. The filling instructions for the coolant system mention to fill the car when it is on level ground, and if you can jack up the left side and pull the reservoir tank up out of the car to ensure it is the highest point in the system. That if you don't have access to a vacuum filler like many dealers.

I'm not saying that it's right that we have to deal with these issues, just trying to shed a little light on why it happens.

-INFO2X

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post #44 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 09:47 AM
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Appreciate the explanation. All cars are flawed creations, hampered by available money, hardware and imagination. I understand this. I still lament the shortcomings I see in all cars, mind you. I own another example of a case where easier production line procedure trumped harder servicing thereafter. And I cuss the designers at Abingdon every time I have to jack up my MG, remove a wheel and then remove an inner fender panel just so I can reach the distributor to set the timing. Wasn't an issue on the assembly line - they fitted the complete engine to the bare chassis and dropped the body on top. Ah well.

Part of it is probably me - I am used to working on my own cars, something becoming less and less possible every year.

Current fleet:
1957 Jamaican bodied MGA
1958 MGA Twin Cam (race car)
1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe
1971 Jensen Interceptor
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe
2007 BMW Z4M coupe
Recently departed: 1965 Jensen CV8, 1969 Lamborghini Islero S, 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, 1969 MGC roadster
Mods at https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...thread-102178/

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post #45 of 168 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by info2x View Post
I appreciate your pain in the cooling system issues that many of us have/had/ or will have at some point.

Our system is sensitive to air bubbles because the top of the heater core and the reservoir are nearly at the same height. The HVAC system for the Kappas was taken from the H3 IIRC. The coolant system like the brake system is vacuum filled for this vehicle and all GM vehicles that I'm aware of. This eliminates the need to burp (or bleed) the system later in the assembly process. The filling instructions for the coolant system mention to fill the car when it is on level ground, and if you can jack up the left side and pull the reservoir tank up out of the car to ensure it is the highest point in the system. That if you don't have access to a vacuum filler like many dealers.

I'm not saying that it's right that we have to deal with these issues, just trying to shed a little light on why it happens.
Ultimately we should probably all familarize ourselves with the (manual) bleed procedure. I for one will not be spending some $500 for the vacuum bleed tool which amounts to not much more than a plastic bottle and a couple of hoses. Nor do I want the hassle of going to the dealer to correct this when it does happen.

My problem was originally fixed by the dealer, but when it reappeared I did the jack the left side and raise the bottle method which has been working ever since.

This is not all that uncommon a problem but it's usually associated with mid-engine cars. I have a 72 Lotus Europa Twincam that severely suffers from the same symptoms. In its case it's because of the radiator being way up front and the engine in the rear at the same level. At least for the Europa it's easy to bleed because they put a bleed valve on the top of the radiator. All you have to do is park on an incline with the nose up and open the bleed screw until the air stops.
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