Code P0106 - MAP sensor problem - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Code P0106 - MAP sensor problem

To all you GXP owners;

Had this code pop up when CEL appeared. Checked with my tester and found it was the MAP (manifold atmospheric pressure) that was not functioning properly. Could be a bad sensor, bad vacuum hose, bad electrical connection. So did some investigating. Pulled the sensor out and observation told me it was possibly because the o-ring seal was dried (but still resilient) and allowed some intermittent leakage.

Background: Applied some silicone grease to the o-ring, reinstalled the sensor and took a ride. The car ran beautifully!! Is it fixed? Time will tell, but for now all is well.

Background: Had some intermittent running problems in the last couple of months that seemed to straighten out, but was temporary. One was the car would idle a bit roughly on startup and then smooth out - drove OK. Secondly the car would indicate no boost, but seemed to have boost. After awhile (car warmed up to normal temp) boost would appear again, especially after shutting it down and restarting - all OK again. Next and most recent indication of boost problem occurred while in cruise on level roadway and the car began to surge and boost would jump to 1, 2,3, or 4lbs boost as well as doing the same thing while holding steady throttle with my lead foot. This just showed up today. Heating and expansion of the o-ring may have been giving the intermittent operation.

So reading about the possible cause the indication was maybe the MAP sensor, etc. You've read my probable fix, which had not been suggested in the write-up I came across.

Have fun with the cars. Maybe this will be helpful to someone else.

grandpop07
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 08:19 PM
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Are you using the GMPP sensors? Are they soldered or crimped? Chances are your issue isn't fixed. When you pulled the sensor you "reconnected" the crimped wiring....

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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sensor for MAP

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Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
Are you using the GMPP sensors? Are they soldered or crimped? Chances are your issue isn't fixed. When you pulled the sensor you "reconnected" the crimped wiring....
Not sure about your question. The sensor is bolted into the intake and the wiring is through a connecter (2 wires). The vacuum tubing is actually a plastic preformed line. I am quite comfortable that the problem I described has been alleviated by what I found and did to correct it. Will let all know if it returns anytime soon.

Thanks for your comment.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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GMPP sensors?

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Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
Are you using the GMPP sensors? Are they soldered or crimped? Chances are your issue isn't fixed. When you pulled the sensor you "reconnected" the crimped wiring....
I think you misunderstood my post to be talking about the upgraded sensors in the turbo tubing used along with the GMPP programing change for the horsepower/torque increase. There is only one (1) MAP (Manifold Atmospheric Pressure) sensor that bolts into the intake manifold itself on the driver's side near the back of the engine.

I installed the sensors that you are referring to. I did not remove the original connectors, but rather used "tap" connectors rather than cutting the wiring and in-line splice connectors. This was done 3 years ago and have not had any issues with failing connections to date.


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpop07 View Post
I think you misunderstood my post to be talking about the upgraded sensors in the turbo tubing used along with the GMPP programing change for the horsepower/torque increase. There is only one (1) MAP (Manifold Atmospheric Pressure) sensor that bolts into the intake manifold itself on the driver's side near the back of the engine.

I installed the sensors that you are referring to. I did not remove the original connectors, but rather used "tap" connectors rather than cutting the wiring and in-line splice connectors. This was done 3 years ago and have not had any issues with failing connections to date.


grandpop07
I think you are confusing the names of the sensors...that's why I misunderstood. The 2 sensors you replaced with the GMPP tune are both called MAP sensors. One in the cold side IC piping, and one on the intake manifold. Together they measure loss between them to make sure there is no leaking. Unless there's a sensor I'm just now learning about. I think you are thinking the one in the IC piping is the MAF, it's not. The MAF is located by your airfilter and measures the air flowing in before the turbo.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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confusion reigns

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Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
I think you are confusing the names of the sensors...that's why I misunderstood. The 2 sensors you replaced with the GMPP tune are both called MAP sensors. One in the cold side IC piping, and one on the intake manifold. Together they measure loss between them to make sure there is no leaking. Unless there's a sensor I'm just now learning about. I think you are thinking the one in the IC piping is the MAF, it's not. The MAF is located by your airfilter and measures the air flowing in before the turbo.
Ghost, Please look up the P0106 code, which when it appears has thrown a CEL that will not clear and stay clear until you address the MAP sensor issue which is what I did. When the other problem with the bad/intermittent electrical connection
/connections occurs, the engine will eventually go into "limp" mode reducing power. See my first post that describes what occurred when the MAP sensor problem reared it's ugly head - the engine was speeding up and falling back to normal whether in cruise or steady throttle by foot - no loss of power. The other point is that the MAP sensor has a vacuum line to it, the sensors you are citing do not. The replacement sensors you refer to are Bosch, as supplied by GM in the GMPP upgrade. My MAP sensor is still the original for the car and is an entirely different configuration and mounts on the intake manifold, not the turbo tubing. I really can't explain it much differently.

Hope this helps to clarify the original post that I submitted.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 11:53 AM
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Replace the map sensor with a genuine gm part. My friend had same issue and we cleaned censor, no change, then we put a auto parts sensor in but the didn’t fix the problem. Finally we bought a gm map sensor and bingo it worked!!

07 Aggressive NA, 11-06 SOLD 9-17-08
09 WickedGXP9-25-08 Auto, Red calps,shorty antenna,windscreen,dibit & bkup light covers, leather armrests/console & door pockets,de-badged, pulsing 3rd light,GMPP CAI&tune, DDM susp set,Clear bra,garage opener in header, JPM lumbar,SOLO Mach Shty cat bk
09 Aggressive GXP Coupe 4-16-14, #577, Auto,soft top,Red calps,GM tune,GM acc whls,Conti Xtreme contact tires,pulsing 3rd light,red eng cover, DDM susp set,SOLO center Exh, Norm Valance
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpop07 View Post
The other point is that the MAP sensor has a vacuum line to it, the sensors you are citing do not.
Then this is not a MAP sensor you touched! There are 2 MAP sensors, as I stated. There is NO vacuum line to a MAP sensor....or the MAF sensor for that matter. I think you are referring to the vapor cansitor purge valve that sits just in front of the MAP sensor on the intake manifold. Please see this post: https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...1-p0106-66212/ I included some pics. The items with redlines/circles to them are the MAP sensors. I believe the item you touched was the one circled in yellow. This is the vapor canister purge valve. It has NOTHING to do with boost. I believe what happed was when you removed it, your MAP sensor wires were moved just enough to reconnect. They need to be soldered instead of spliced, if they are still spliced.

Now onto the other statement that you made. There are 2 modes to the CEL. When it's iluminated, the vehicle will stay in limp mode till its cleared or x number of starts when it will clear itself. The second mode to our vehicles is what is called "pending" mode. What happens in that mode is that the ECM has detected a certain condition for x number of seconds. It will reduce your boost a little bit, but will not put the car in "limp" mode. So as an example of mine when my HPFP was going. I normally see 23psi of boost at WOT. When mine would "pend" I would only get 16 or 17psi. Your vehicle will stay in "pending" mode until 1 of 3 criteria is met.
1. pending mode CEL is reset
2. 30 minutes of driving has occured with no recurring issue
3. 5 ignition cycles (I believe the engine must be at operating temp for 1 minute during each cycle)

As a side note, your ECM stores every single CEL code your car has ever had, cleared or not, and only GM engineers can read these
Also, your ECM tracks how many times the ECM has been rewritten with a tune, and again, only a GM engineer can read that.....

I hope this helps.
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____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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MAP sensor replacement

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Originally Posted by WickedMike View Post
Replace the map sensor with a genuine gm part. My friend had same issue and we cleaned censor, no change, then we put a auto parts sensor in but the didnít fix the problem. Finally we bought a gm map sensor and bingo it worked!!
Yes, I think it's wise to use the GM replacement parts as well. Mine did not need to be replaced at this time.

For Ghost: The MAP sensor I'm talking about is located about 2-3 inches behind the oil dipstick and a little forward of the manifold sensor you referred to and is midway on the intake casting and is a vertical unit not horizontal.

If you will go on line asking for 2009 solstice code 0106 meaning there will be some very good writeups about the MAP sensor replacement procedure.

I've been driving and working on these cars since 2008. Had a 2007 GXP stick and presently have a 2009 auto. Love them both.


Hope this helps,

grandpop07
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 02:20 PM
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There are definitely two MAP sensors and one MAF sensor on the GXP. None of them have vacuum hoses connected to them.

The MAP sensors both have o-rings around their respective vacuum nipples. One goes directly into the intake pipe and the other goes directly into the intake manifold. No vacuum hoses. The only thing I've seen in that area that resembles a sensor and has vacuum lines is the bypass valve.

In the picture below, the poorly-placed "MAP #2" label refers to the piece with the blue and white label, NOT the evap purge solenoid next to it. (Which is black with the hard plastic hose connecting to the top.)



Also, just for completeness, there's a third CEL mode: flashing wildly. That indicates a misfire and you will lose about 90% power, get zero boost, and should probably pull over as soon as safely possible.
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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 06-29-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Raygun,

Thank you for a correction of a misnomer on my part. End of controversy.

granpop07
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 03:40 PM
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The point wasn't to make a big deal out of this. It's just useful to keep the information in the threads as correct as possible for the benefit of future readers who may be trying to fix a related issue.

Thanks for the post.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 06:36 PM
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I misspoke above and meant MAF to replace. Sorry my figure printed wrong.

07 Aggressive NA, 11-06 SOLD 9-17-08
09 WickedGXP9-25-08 Auto, Red calps,shorty antenna,windscreen,dibit & bkup light covers, leather armrests/console & door pockets,de-badged, pulsing 3rd light,GMPP CAI&tune, DDM susp set,Clear bra,garage opener in header, JPM lumbar,SOLO Mach Shty cat bk
09 Aggressive GXP Coupe 4-16-14, #577, Auto,soft top,Red calps,GM tune,GM acc whls,Conti Xtreme contact tires,pulsing 3rd light,red eng cover, DDM susp set,SOLO center Exh, Norm Valance
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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maybe more controversy will ensue with this post

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Originally Posted by grandpop07 View Post
Raygun,

Thank you for a correction of a misnomer on my part. End of controversy.

granpop07
I know now that the sensor I was calling a MAP is the Purge solenoid. What I did to the o-ring made it seal and took care of the problem I described and I think I know why - maybe. Muddying the waters here.

The purge solenoid plugs into the intake manifold, just as does one of the MAPs. If there is atmospheric (barometric ) pressure leakage around the o-ring this would affect the pressure that the MAP is seeing in the manifold. Therefor the stoichiometric balance has been upset, albeit intermittently. There is a stoichiometric parameter built into the engine design (as in all engines, but the carbureted engines are not computer controlled and the main effect is on gas mileage, not running), ideally 14.7 to 1. There is probably a certain range of variableness that is compensated for when changing altitudes that is taken care of in the programing of the turbo system and no programing allowance for a leak in the intake manifold affecting what the intake manifold MAP sees. An engineer would have to provide this kind of information.

I have worked on many carbed cars over the years and rebuilt many carbs, especially the Rochester 2GCs and Carter AFBs as used in the early tripower Pontiacs up through the 60s and into the early 70s Rochester 4 bbls. I particularly specialized in the multi carbed setups. Been doing this stuff more than 65 years. Not so much anymore though except for personal friends.

Again, just 'muddying' the water or atmosphere.

grandpop07

Last edited by grandpop07; 07-05-2019 at 05:10 AM. Reason: mispelled word
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE on my repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpop07 View Post
I think you misunderstood my post to be talking about the upgraded sensors in the turbo tubing used along with the GMPP programing change for the horsepower/torque increase. There is only one (1) MAP (Manifold Atmospheric Pressure) sensor that bolts into the intake manifold itself on the driver's side near the back of the engine.

I installed the sensors that you are referring to. I did not remove the original connectors, but rather used "tap" connectors rather than cutting the wiring and in-line splice connectors. This was done 3 years ago and have not had any issues with failing connections to date.


grandpop07

I promised an update on my "repair" results. Since I simply removed the Purge solenoid and applied a little silicone grease to the o-ring the car has been running great - no problems, no CELs, etc.. My simple fix has obviously worked, so don't discount the efficacy of doing the simple things. Note this in your playbooks as a possibility to alleviating the P0106 code.


Enjoy the cars,

grandpop07
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