My fan quit and I found the 60 amp fuse blown.
Replaced the fuse and it worked fine for awhile then blew the fuse again.
Replaced fuse, then the temp climbed and I pulled over for a cool down and found coolant leaking from where I know now is the thermostat.
My theory now is the thermostat blew out from on and off high coolant temp caused by the failed module stopping the fan rather than the water pump which is what I am into now.
Long and short, keep an eye on these fans as they should be running when you shut down and carry extra 60 amp fuses and copper wire to jump blown fuse pins (Elmer Fudd sez "bwe berry, berry cwarefewl) as the potential high resistance from "Fudding" like this can cause lots of heat. Wire jumps are only for EMERGENCIES, not a "Fudd" fix.
My research says a resistor in the module goes high in resistance increasing amperage and blowing the fuse.
This can be checked with power supplied to the module. Dealers do it all the time which is where I got my info but why bother if the unit is constantly blowing the fuse. The module is BAD if it keeps blowing fuses.
Now be conservative about replacing the water pump as it is a pain. The thermostat can be a pain but change that if a puddle is there near the firewall and when you change it, boil it to make sure it works and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 hole in it.
If coolant is leaking towards the front, that's obviously water pump so do the thermostat too.
Thanks so much for the module sourcing information
Saves us po folks $$$