Cooling Fan Failure - GXP (Variable Speed?) - Page 5 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #61 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 09:36 AM
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Pretty sure this sounds like something broken in the fan motor, making intermittent connection. Need a new one - I doubt it's repairable.

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #62 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 10:53 AM
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ok, yeah I have a new one ordered and on its way, should be here tomorrow. (fan shroud assembly) which has all the parts included (shroud/fan/motor/controller) 390.00

Thank you for reading and replying
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post #63 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 03:10 PM
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I am with TS, specially when you said you hit it and black stuff came out of it.

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post #64 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 07:55 AM
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Just wanted to post my results and what I've done to fix the over heating issue.... First read the forums, bought the valves installed them, did the air sucky thingy, seemed ok until I noticed fan was no longer working, bought a new controller, fan burnt up, so had to replace entire fan assembly as no motor was available separately, installed it last night, did the sucky thingy to get the air out of the lines again.... and so far so good... Thanks all for the tips and help while I figured this thing out....

oh side note... the upper hose that connects to the radiator rubs on the bottom of something so when I was replacing things I noticed there is a small cut in the bottom of the hose... upon trying to find a replacement GM no longer makes this part at all and you cannot get it from GM or any GM dealers..... for now the hose is taped but, curious is this the same hose for maybe a Saturn sky and maybe they have them available?? gonna research this on the web. again.. thanks all for the help!!!
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post #65 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 08:20 AM
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DDM and Werks used to sell replacement hoses. There is a thread on this subject around somewhere.
Solstice/Sky Upper Radiator hose by DDMWorks


https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...-50-off-74250/

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post #66 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 08:49 AM
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The hose cut is a common issue - one that people unnecessarily panic over. Unless yours is deep enough to have scored the inner threads in the hose, just zip-tie it up away from the fan shroud flange and forget about it.

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...4/#post1107741


Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...

Last edited by TomatoSoup; 07-01-2015 at 08:54 AM.
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post #67 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 09:05 AM
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I hope that is not the soupmobile! I mean I am shocked! That hose is soiled and dusty. And the zip tie is the wrong colour . . .

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post #68 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 09:16 AM
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ah perfect thank you both again!
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post #69 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob the elder View Post
I hope that is not the soupmobile! I mean I am shocked! That hose is soiled and dusty. And the zip tie is the wrong colour . . .
<Hangs head in shame>

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #70 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 12:03 PM
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Replacing another one on a friends car and we decided to use Dorman part number 902-209 since we could find it local. The dorman controller looks to be a little thicker and it includes new pigatils for both the fan connector and power connector if you damaged your existing wiring. It was $132.99 at O'Reillys
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post #71 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 05:13 PM
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The dorman controller did not work as expected since I ended up having to make changes in HPTuners to get fan to start up correctly. The fan motor itself may have issues that we were unaware of so make sure you can return it if you have issues with the controller.
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post #72 of 89 (permalink) Old 10-16-2015, 11:58 AM
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Great Posts!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger28 View Post
All I had the same issue, bad controller.
alternates available:

china 50 bucks including shipping 15 day delivery -
100% factory New 902 209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay RR28 6W1Z8B658AC/ 940002904-in Air-conditioning Installation from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Dorman 902-209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay

oriely autoparts: $192.99 Each (Part Number: RR28)

Rockauto - 100 bucks

APDTY 013310 Radiator Fan Relay (Replaces Ford 6W1Z-8B658-AC RR28)

2007 GXP
good luck all - hope this helps someone.

PS- do not buy the radiator fan assy from Rock auto for 78 bucks (says it is fo turbo but is not - have to send mine back :>(
No one in town but Ford with the part for $244. Found the Dorman 902-209 in stock at O'reilly for $139 one day before our local autocrossing 2-day weekend.

Awesome posts!
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post #73 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmiles813 View Post
Thanks.

The OEM replacement is $370 shipped - that is a bit pricey... It is frustrating that you can't buy the controller solo.

Adding a touch of reverse engineering... The controller essentially has two sides to it. On one side, the high power circuitry (the FETs and back EMF protection Diode). On the other, we have the low power logic control. It is my guess that the severe overheat condition, originally caused by the "bad jump start", may have fried the logic control.

Additional testing revealed the FET gate is either too fast for my oscilloscope to measure (unlikely, but possible), or it is perpetually sitting at 0V due to a logic control failure. If it is just stuck at 0V, the FETs will never turn on and close the circuit to the cooling fan. I have ordered a $40 function generator from Ebay to generate a new gate signal, and an upgraded 120V capable oscilloscope.

It is now my intention to use the function generator to test the FETs themselves, manually - under the assumption that the low power portion of the board has died. This device was designed to never be taken apart, including ultra-high temp solder which my iron won't melt. So, removing the low power portion will fundamentally ruin the device, but who cares at this point?... However, with the knowledge I have obtained thus far, it might be possible to salvage the high power side of the board and design a new analog (or better yet microcontroller) based circuit board and place it in the same case.

If the existing FETs are proved to still be viable, I would likely choose the analog path initially just to get the vehicle back in full operating condition. Using an opto-isolator 4N25, I can isolate the ECU signal in case of failure (and fool the ECU into thinking the OEM controller is in use). Then, it should be a simple matter of providing a valid gate signal to the FETs. If I choose the microcontroller option, it is feasible to build in a case thermistor to sense compartment temperature and keep the engine bay a little better ventilated. (It gets hot and dry in SoCal). Ordering the OEM part will be a last resort.

It will be at least a week or so before I get my parts in, I will post back with results.

If anybody happens to know the name of the 2 pin fan connector, and/or the 3/4 pin harness connector, please let me know. I'd like to order plugs to make extension cables for the fan and harness.
Did you ever get the part number for the fan connector?
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post #74 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for all of the information. I had the fan stop working, and the shop diagnosed the problem as the controller. They wanted $340 for the part, but I bought a YK-132 off of Amazon and took it to them instead. They replaced the controller and said the fan was now working fine.

When I started the car to leave the shop, the check engine light was on. This light was definitely not on before. Has anyone run into an issue of using a substitute controller causing an error code? They reset it, but mentioned that it may have been caused by the substitute part. Since they may try to blame this on the part, I wanted to see if anyone else had run into it.

I also had the battery replaced, and I have read on the forums that this and jump-starting can be an issue that causes the check engine light to come on.

What is strange is that after the check engine light was reset, I started up and drove home with no warning light. It showed up the next time I started the car (a few days later).
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post #75 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 08:57 PM
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Garage
Is the fan and blade the same as a NON turbo unit less the controller?

I have a fan that is noisy, but the controller seems to be working fine.
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