Engine died, replaced batterythromycin now no crank. - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 04:12 PM
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Starting sequence:
Key to Start position
Signal from switch to BCM for start
Message to ECM for start
ECM confirms clutch pedal down or automatic in park or neutral
ECM commands crank relay on
Crank relay supplies power to starter solenoid
Starter solenoid powers starter

So something to check is operation of the crank relay in the Underhood Fuse Block by listening for a "click".
There was a recent problem with a clutch pedal switch although as Raygun stated that would not cause the engine to die.

This process would be infinitely easier with a scan tool and, really, you may have gone as far as you can without one.

John
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post #17 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 04:16 PM
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@JohnWR I'm starting to think I should keep my FSM on my desk.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #18 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 04:22 PM
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@JohnWR I'm starting to think I should keep my FSM on my desk.
I have three of them on mine .....

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post #19 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 04:38 PM
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I have three volumes. If I had three complete sets, I might need to get rid of my LEGOs.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #20 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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I neglected to say it is automatic, sorry.
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post #21 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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The best I have for diagnostic tools is a dvm, a handheld code reader and software for a "Dash Command", had nice laptop software at one time, still have thee cable. I'll follow everyone's suggestions over the next few days.

Tks again.
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post #22 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 05:18 PM
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I have three volumes. If I had three complete sets, I might need to get rid of my LEGOs.
'06 Sol = 2 Volumes, '07 Sky = 2 Volumes, '08 M-Car = 3 Volumes.
Plus Lego: Bricks from the '60s, some kits from the '70s, and Technic/Expert Builder from the '80s and '90s.
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post #23 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 05:28 PM
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Engine died, replaced batterythromycin now no crank.

My ‘07 set for sky and solstice is three volumes.

I’ll snap a pic when I get home.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #24 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 05:36 PM
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The best I have for diagnostic tools is a dvm, a handheld code reader and software for a "Dash Command", had nice laptop software at one time, still have thee cable. I'll follow everyone's suggestions over the next few days. Tks again.
These pictures of the ECM connector pages from the service manual may help you. They are for an '08, but I believe that the '08 and '09 are the same.
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post #25 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 06:07 PM
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Okay, still simple with an auto. Put the car in neutral and try to start it. If it starts, then you know it's the park switch.

____________________________________________

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post #26 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
Okay, still simple with an auto. Put the car in neutral and try to start it. If it starts, then you know it's the park switch.
It will be great if that solves it, but don't you think it is a pretty major coincidence that a bad battery kills the car at the same moment that a bad park switch keeps it from starting?

It also looks from the schematic that the park and neutral indication is one switch, although one mode of that switch could presumably fail independently.

John
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Last edited by JohnWR; 07-28-2019 at 09:04 PM.
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post #27 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Monday morning. Checked ALL fuses in the under hood fuse box and BCM, pulled the connector from the BCM and no burn marks, eveything looks good. Confirmed good electrical ground connection to the engine, alternator and chassis from the battery. Checked the connector under the battery tray, all connections look good. No lockout symbol on the display, eveything seems to function, lights, windows, horn, fuel pump, etc.

Hummmmm
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post #28 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Monday morning. Checked ALL fuses in the under hood fuse box and BCM, pulled the connector from the BCM and no burn marks, eveything looks good. Confirmed good electrical ground connection to the engine, alternator and chassis from the battery. Checked the connector under the battery tray, all connections look good. No lockout symbol on the display, eveything seems to function, lights, windows, horn, fuel pump, etc.

Hummmmm
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post #29 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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I have not checked the start operation as JohnWR outline earlier, after it starts to cool down a little.
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post #30 of 148 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:35 AM
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So I was driving and pulled to a stop light and the engine died, restarted and drove for a mile or so again to another stop and the engine died again, this time when it retired it was backfiring and running rough. Pulled over and it died again, when I tried to restart the starter would spin but not engage.

Replaced the battery and everything seems to work, lights gauges, etc but the starter will not spin. Read the codes and see a U0100 lost Comstock with ECM/PCM A.

Checked all the fuses under the hood (in the fuse box) and everything having enough to do with the starter and ECM is fine.

When I attempt to start it I get the following, Service ESC / Service Traction and the little ESC warning light is on.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

Regards
Did you physically replace the battery, or did you have someone else do it? The reason I ask; is there are numerous stories of audio parts store geniuses installing vehicle batteries in backwards. If the cables are connected with the wrong polarity, even for a nanosecond, it can destroy the ECU/BCU.
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