Engine died, replaced batterythromycin now no crank. - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #31 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-29-2019, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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JustKelly, I did it myself (and performed a little rust removal/paint on the tray while it was out. Used the fender method.
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post #32 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-29-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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I've been looking for a wiring diagram for the start circuit and reading anything that sounds remotely like me situation and a number of them seem to have been caused by a bad ignition switch. That could explain why the engine shut off and why the starter won't spin. Don't know what to say about the battery, maybe it wasn't bad.

Thoughts
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post #33 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-29-2019, 08:48 PM
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Here you go. Good luck.
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post #34 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-30-2019, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDoug View Post
I've been looking for a wiring diagram for the start circuit and reading anything that sounds remotely like me situation and a number of them seem to have been caused by a bad ignition switch. That could explain why the engine shut off and why the starter won't spin. Don't know what to say about the battery, maybe it wasn't bad.

Thoughts
Did your car have the ignition switch recall done?
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post #35 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-30-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, last Fall along with the passenger airbag fix.
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post #36 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-30-2019, 07:20 AM
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It is easy enough to check for 12V at the ECM, so that would validate the power contact.

When you turn the key to "Start" does the radio go off? If it does, the start contact is working.

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post #37 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-30-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, radio does go off.
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post #38 of 148 (permalink) Unread 07-31-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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So .... Pulled the wheels and verified all wheel sensors are clean, etc (only because the dash told me to service the and someone indicated the sensors connection could be a problem), I was hoping for a small win.

Pulled every connector from BCM, ECM and the bottom of the engine compartment fuse box. I have 12 volt at the big starter lug. Left the battery disconnected (both terminals) for over an hour. Picked up a scanner from Autozone and the only thing it comes up with is it lost Coms with the engine control module.
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post #39 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
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Picked up a scanner from Autozone and the only thing it comes up with is it lost Coms with the engine control module.
Are you saying you received a code? U0140 lost communication with BCM?

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post #40 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
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So .... Pulled the wheels and verified all wheel sensors are clean, etc (only because the dash told me to service the and someone indicated the sensors connection could be a problem), I was hoping for a small win.

Pulled every connector from BCM, ECM and the bottom of the engine compartment fuse box. I have 12 volt at the big starter lug. Left the battery disconnected (both terminals) for over an hour. Picked up a scanner from Autozone and the only thing it comes up with is it lost Coms with the engine control module.
Unplug the ECM and locate the supply voltage pins from the diagrams that I posted. X1-19, X1-20, and X1-73 are +, X2-73 is ground. Power the car, (do not try to start it) and check for voltage on those pins.

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post #41 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 09:19 AM
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Are you saying you received a code? U0140 lost communication with BCM?
Read Post 1. The code is (or at least was) U0100: Lost Comm with ECM.
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post #42 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 09:24 AM
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Either the ECM is dead, it's not powered and/or properly grounded, or there is some physical issue with the bus (harness) between the ECM and BCM, or (unlikely but I suppose it's possible) the CAN bus isn't terminated, though I seem to recall that the bus is internally terminated on this car.

The ECM is sounding more and more likely.

If you need an ECM, Rock Auto has prices that are FAR better than the dealership. However, you'll have to flash it. If you have HP Tuners, you can do this yourself though it will cost you a couple of credits due to the VIN. You may get a better deal on an ECM from Performance Autowerks.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

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post #43 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 09:44 AM
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I got an ECM from DDMWorks for what seemed like a reasonable price at the time, but i don;t remember what it was.

Flashing can be done by many independent shops as well. All it takes is a Tech2 (or equivalent) and a TIS2WEB subscription.

Definitely shop around.

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post #44 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Solstice ECM ground check.

ECM X2 (Grey) connector
Pin 73 Resistance to battery ground
Key off 0
1st position - .04
2nd position - .07
Start position - .05


ECM X1 (Black) connector
Pin 73 Ignition 1 voltage
Key off 12.36
1st position 12.36
2nd position 12.06
Start position 12.20

JohnWR -
KO - pin 19 .2
pin 20 - 12.6
pin 73 - for some reason I don't read any voltage there no. See above for previous reading.

McDoug

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post #45 of 148 (permalink) Unread 08-01-2019, 04:47 PM
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There is one additional voltage check: X1-3 should have 12V with the key on.

Does "KO" mean "Key On"? If it does, you should have 12 V at pin 19, and you have a problem with the Ignition contact in the key, the run/crank relay 51, or the ECM/Trans Fuse 43.

To check them in order:
1) Turn the key to power the car.
2) Pull Relay 51 and reinsert to listen for a click.
3) If it does not click the switch or the relay coil is bad
4) If it does click skip to (8)
5) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
6) If it does not click the switch is bad
7) If it does click the original coil was bad
8) Check the voltage on both sides of the ECM/Trans Fuse 43
9) If neither side has 12V, the relay contacts are bad
10) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
11) If one side only has 12V, the fuse is bad
12) If both sides have 12V there is a wiring harness problem

Pin 73 will only have voltage if the ECM is connected. I missed that the ECM turns on the relay that supplies this power.
With the ECM connected:
1) Turn the key to power the car
2) Pull Relay 26 and reinsert to listen for a click.
3) If it does not click the switch or the relay coil is bad
4) If it does click skip to (8)
5) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
6) If it does not click the switch is bad
7) If it does click the original coil was bad
8) Check the voltage on both sides of the ECM Fuse 42
9) If neither side has 12V, the relay contacts are bad
10) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
11) If one side only has 12V, the fuse is bad
12) If both sides have 12V there is a wiring harness problem or the ECM is bad
13) Check voltage at X1-73 with the ECM connected
14) If there is not 12V there is a wiring harness problem
15) If there is 12V the ECM is probably bad

John
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