How to align my fender? - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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How to align my fender?

I had to replace my battery. I opened the fender, removed the battery, and installed the new battery. The problem I have is aligning the fender. I snugged it in place; the door opened and closed fine. When I tightened it down the edge of the door hit the fender. The other problem I had was the fender in the middle is out too far. The top and bottom are aligned. Please HELP! Bob
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:13 PM
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This should help

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...54/#post880069

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 01:20 PM
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For other folks seeing this thread before they change their battery, let this be a warning!

ALWAYS use painters tape at the top and trailing (door-adjacent) edges and make alignment marks with a Sharpie pen, BEFORE removing the panel!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
For other folks seeing this thread before they change their battery, let this be a warning!

ALWAYS use painters tape at the top and trailing (door-adjacent) edges and make alignment marks with a Sharpie pen, BEFORE removing the panel!
Good advice. I prefer the fender removal option while others prefer to remove the wheel. Removing the wheel is more work (in my opinion) but eliminates the misalignment risk.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 04:29 PM
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Just replaced mine last week I do the inner fender method works for me but if I was removing the fender I would follow TS's advice
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:35 PM
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I'll take the freaking windshield out myself before I take sheet metal off of that car. The body alignment guide (linked to elsewhere) is helpful, but incomplete.

Having removed, from the blue car:
- Hood
- LH door
- Trunk lid
- Both fenders
- Head and tail lights
- Rear bumper
- Soft top

(Or, everything except the quarter panels and the RH door)

I'm probably doing it wrong. I sometimes consider and regret the series of events that have led me to this point.

I can say with some authority that getting everything aligned is a dark art, the secrets of which have been lost to antiquity. Or at least are hidden from me, which is equally likely.

The wheel liners should really come with some sort of quick disconnect feature. Any time you're working on the engine, it is 100 times less (physically) painful if you can straddle the control arm, sit on the tire, and do your thing, rather than bending over the liner the whole time. If everything didn't get so wet and dirty with them removed while driving, I'd just leave them off permanently.
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Last edited by raygun; 02-14-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
For other folks seeing this thread before they change their battery, let this be a warning!

ALWAYS use painters tape at the top and trailing (door-adjacent) edges and make alignment marks with a Sharpie pen, BEFORE removing the panel!
I'd love to see a series of pics on that the next time you have occasion to remove a fender.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:49 PM
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I have to wonder if the lines of the Sky make it easier to realign that panel because I have had mine off three times with no drama getting it back in the correct location. More evidence of its innate superiority maybe?

John
Lexington, KY
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:52 PM
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@JohnWR It helps somewhat that the Sky fenders are fiberglass. Steel flexes a lot, and the panel is under some amount of tension normally.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
I'd love to see a series of pics on that the next time you have occasion to remove a fender.
Better still, here's DeepBlueGXP's battery removal video. Now he only marks the fender support (triangular thingy) at 3'18" and draws on the metal directly, but I would also mark the fender alignment itself, too, at the start.



Replacement:

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RA Mol View Post
I had to replace my battery. I opened the fender, removed the battery, and installed the new battery. The problem I have is aligning the fender. I snugged it in place; the door opened and closed fine. When I tightened it down the edge of the door hit the fender. The other problem I had was the fender in the middle is out too far. The top and bottom are aligned. Please HELP! Bob
For the middle of the fender - assuming you mean "middle" vertically - remember the Big Ass Bolt that goes in the back, between the door and the fender. That hole, IIRC, is slotted. The fender also rotates along the vertical axis.

It's a pain. I'd happily buy one of the factory workers stock in their favorite brewery to find out how they did it. I'm reasonably certain that they didn't spend an hour or more per car getting every panel correctly aligned.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces

Last edited by raygun; 02-14-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:57 PM
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@TomatoSoup Oooh - Shiny! Thanks!

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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