Overheat and don't know why... - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Overheat and don't know why...

HI all - need help on an overheat...replaced the thermostat last summer (with a drilled hole just to be safe to burp the baby ) and car has been running fine - today overheated to 260. Was able to limp home when it cooled down below 210 but never was back at normal upper 190's. Top radiator hose is of course hot, bottom is cool to the touch. Almost like the t-stat is stuck closed.. I do have heat from the heater...any help appreciated. 2008 2.0L GXP ~60K miles.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DaLynda View Post
HI all - need help on an overheat...replaced the thermostat last summer (with a drilled hole just to be safe to burp the baby ) and car has been running fine - today overheated to 260. Was able to limp home when it cooled down below 210 but never was back at normal upper 190's. Top radiator hose is of course hot, bottom is cool to the touch. Almost like the t-stat is stuck closed.. I do have heat from the heater...any help appreciated. 2008 2.0L GXP ~60K miles.
easy way to find out. just remove the thermostat and run the car without it. If it cools down put in a new thermostat. Since you've changed the Tstat before, you already know you don't have to disconnect the hoses. Or, since Tstats are cheap, just skip the extra step and drop a new one in. Can't be sure but it definitely sounds like a stuck Tstat.

Bill
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:18 AM
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Is your radiator fan turning on? My first one went out at around 72,000 miles. If you turn on the A/C while they car is running, your fan should turn on.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:21 AM
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A couple things come to mind.

First would be as stated by Joybill. If you purchased a cheap replacement like Stant or some other off brand, these don't last more then a year from other people's posts here on the forum. Get an ACDelco from the dealership.

Second, is the reservoir full? Have you added any coolant to it lately? If so, are there visible leaks anywhere? If nothing is on the ground, look under the waterpump and see if there is any orange jelly-like substance under it...if so, you need a WP.

Third, headgasket...which is not an easy task or cheap....
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:31 AM
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........ is the reservoir full? Have you added any coolant to it lately? If so, are there visible leaks anywhere? If nothing is on the ground, look under the waterpump and see if there is any orange jelly-like substance under it...if so, you need a WP.

Third, headgasket...which is not an easy task or cheap....
Either of these will cause loss of coolant and that will eventually cause overheating, but if the reservoir hasn't gotten low enough to let the system ingest air, will either of these directly cause overheating?

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 11:08 AM
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Make sure your radiator cap is good.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 03:15 PM
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Be a bit unusual for the issue that plagued some cars early on to manifest itself - the one cured by installing the valves in the heater hoses. Guess it is still possible, though.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Feedback on the t-stat removal

Thanks for the response. I've often wondered about the 'why' of a thermostat with a summer vehicle like this...good idea I think to remove altogether! Thanks.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Kaotikvet - Thanks - good tip I'll double check the coolant cap!

Last edited by DaLynda; 08-11-2019 at 04:20 PM.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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SolCal - yes, good point the fans are turning on and working fine!
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
Either of these will cause loss of coolant and that will eventually cause overheating, but if the reservoir hasn't gotten low enough to let the system ingest air, will either of these directly cause overheating?
I asked and stated this merely because some people don't think about the fact that they added coolant 2 weeks ago before the overheating started. And lately, there's been a lot of newer people on here that don't give the entire story until you "jog" their memory.

Much like I was going to take my tire off and take it to the tire store 3 weeks ago. Well, I left the lugs loose until I could work on it again. Not thinking one day, I decided to get it to the tire store. I completely forgot I left the lugs loose until I got up there and 2 of them fell off!! Thank God it was only 3 miles away.

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Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
Either of these will cause loss of coolant and that will eventually cause overheating, but if the reservoir hasn't gotten low enough to let the system ingest air, will either of these directly cause overheating?
I asked and stated this merely because some people don't think about the fact that they added coolant 2 weeks ago before the overheating started. And lately, there's been a lot of newer people on here that don't give the entire story until you "jog" their memory.

Much like I was going to take my tire off and take it to the tire store 3 weeks ago. Well, I left the lugs loose until I could work on it again. Not thinking one day, I decided to get it to the tire store. I completely forgot I left the lugs loose until I got up there and 2 of them fell off!! Thank God it was only 3 miles away.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the response. I've often wondered about the 'why' of a thermostat with a summer vehicle like this...good idea I think to remove altogether! Thanks.
May not be a good idea to leave the tstat out permanently. You want the engine to come up to operating temperature rapidly for best operating efficiency, even in hot weather.

I have taken them out and run the engine without them just for testing purposes. you can put the tstat in a pot on the stove with a thermometer in the water and observe whether or not it opens at the proper temperature. If it opens properly, reinstall and look for the problem elsewhere.

Good luck,
Bill
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 01:13 AM
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Another thing to check (and this happened to me) is to take off the water pump cover on the front of the engine and check the chain. The balance shaft/water pump crank sprocket had stripped and wasn't turning the water pump any more. The chain was very loose.

As long as you just take off the cover there is no risk in messing anything up. If you have to replace the chain it can get rather expensive if you pay a shop to do it.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing to check (and this happened to me) is to take off the water pump cover on the front of the engine and check the chain. The balance shaft/water pump crank sprocket had stripped and wasn't turning the water pump any more. The chain was very loose.

As long as you just take off the cover there is no risk in messing anything up. If you have to replace the chain it can get rather expensive if you pay a shop to do it.
Amorget - thanks - great tip and tonight i plan on digging into this further. ill keep everyone posted on findings.
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