replaced water pump on 2209 gxp, won't accept coolant back into car - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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replaced water pump on 2209 gxp, won't accept coolant back into car

Followed DDMWorks guide to replacement, however the system won't accept refill. Did the things recommended by DDM, but no luck on refilling the system - crazy huh? Anyone ever run into this problem?

Help!!

grandpop07

Meant to type 2009 not 2209

Last edited by grandpop07; 03-30-2019 at 09:58 AM. Reason: disregard this question -thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 10:31 AM
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Did you watch the DDM coolant refill video on Youtube?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpop07 View Post
...however the system won't accept refill...
Could you elaborate on this? What do you mean by "won't accept refill?"

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 01:04 PM
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Another note: I tried the DDM "lift the reservoir" method when I replaced my recently replaced my water pump. I couldn't get all of the air pockets out that way. (Note, though, that I didn't have the check valves installed.)

An Airlift is really the way to go. It makes the entire process take about 5 minutes and will quickly let you identify any leaks in the system.
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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 02:07 PM
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You need to give your car a hand job as well to get rid of the air.

WooHoo!!! Ordered a loaded Deep GXP on March 19th, 2008. Order number 0814D93708
Event code 3400 on April 12, 2008
Born April 30, 2008
Delivered to dealer May 23th, 2008
Delivered on May 27, 2008

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Last edited by Sly Bob; 03-30-2019 at 02:39 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 02:12 PM
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That also did not solve the problem.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 03:15 PM
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The hand job worked great to get rid of the excess air when I did mine but that's not the issue here now.
Grandpop07, as was asked earlier, What do you mean you can't refill???

WooHoo!!! Ordered a loaded Deep GXP on March 19th, 2008. Order number 0814D93708
Event code 3400 on April 12, 2008
Born April 30, 2008
Delivered to dealer May 23th, 2008
Delivered on May 27, 2008

Mods: lose the chicklets, VentureShield, Dual horns, AfterShock spoiler, Weathershield cover, Lil Chromies, Red calipers with black Solstice stickers, Opel GT antenna and
Solo GXP-RCD exhaust with Solo hi-flow cat!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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refill coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sly Bob View Post
The hand job worked great to get rid of the excess air when I did mine but that's not the issue here now.
Grandpop07, as was asked earlier, What do you mean you can't refill???
At first the water would not go into the engine. I did not use anti-freeze. By the way, I did use a clear plastic hose on the fitting from which Dave removed the rubber hose on top of the engine, so I could monitor the fluid as it came out to see the air bubbles and also to let the water go into a container instead of on top of the engine. But first, after the water refused to drain into the engine I used a very short piece of the clear hose to serve as a'nipple' to be able to blow air back through the engine which process cleared whatever prevented the water entering by gravity flow. I can only surmise that there was an air pocket that somehow prevented the water from flowing in. After the 'back' flow of forced air the water did start to flow and I filled the engine. I wanted to ask Dave if he had ever run into this problem, but they're closed on Saturday, so I may call him Monday.

Now I have a new problem. After filling and running the car up to operating temperature to check for leaks (none so far) and after several starts I got a CEL and the car would not restart. Instead I got a chattering sound of the starter kicking in and out. I checked battery voltage - showed 12.5 volts on an analog meter - then I left my meter on to see what the voltage would drop to when attempting to start. A loud, deep sounding popping noise occurred as if being amplified through the radio, which was not on, so I quit there, hoping that nothing is damaged. But I'm very puzzled about what happened. I have an OBDII analyzer ordered to see what code or codes may have been set. I'll post more about this when I get it figured out.

Stay tuned,

grandpop07
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:11 PM
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Good luck with this.

FYI: The radio amplifier is always "on" to provide warning chimes and the turn signal tick-tock.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 05:58 PM
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Did you get this figured out? I had a use an air extraction system on mine 5 different times to get the air out. Be very careful. If you notice the temperature very rapidly fluctuating, stop immediately!!! That means you have an air bubble in the system.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Did you get this figured out? I had a use an air extraction system on mine 5 different times to get the air out. Be very careful. If you notice the temperature very rapidly fluctuating, stop immediately!!! That means you have an air bubble in the system.
I got it all figured out. My battery was bad - only held a surface charge that quickly drained away after 1 start ( I had my charger on overnight and the car started the next morning, but would not start a second time immediately after shutdown and the popping noise returned through the radio speaker. So,replaced - the battery which turned out to be the original from the factory 11 years ago so can't complain - problem solved. I did have a CEL that said bad or no connection to the turbo - I found that I had not reconnected the cable to the turbo - again, problem solved. All is good after several hard, moderate runs - no leaks - monitoring the temps re. DIC - never got above 194 degrees - drops to 186 or 187. I am still only running water not coolant mix, but will flush out system again and refill with the 50-50 mix of Dexcool. I think I have the refill process down pat now. See my previous post.

grandpop07
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Last edited by grandpop07; 04-09-2019 at 07:36 AM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:46 AM
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Congrats on figuring it out and posting how you fixed it. It's weird how often the battery affects stuff on our cars.

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