UGGHH, introduced air into the cooling system - Page 3 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #31 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Unless the crack in the block/head happens to v3e right above the water pump, it seems highly likely that it's oring/hose failure. I saw videos online that show an oring on the pipe coming from the back, does a new pump come with that oring?

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post #32 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:31 AM
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the area circled in red is the weep hole in the bottom of the pump. If the coolant is coming from there, it is definitely the bearing.

Bill.
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post #33 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:42 AM
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I'm still baffled at how a semi-enclosed system has this issue.

Driving and working on a Sly 2008 Solstice GXP 5spd 260/260, and the worst-built 2012 LS3 Camaro 1SS to escape from Oshawa.

Gone but not forgotten:
2007 Solstice GXP 5 speed 290/340

Stored and needing to part ways with a 1970 Skylark Custom convertible I have owned since 1989 and turned into a GS455 clone. 462 with 7/8 primary headers, adjustable roller rockers, TA Performance Stage 1 aluminum heads, auto, Chevy 12 bolt, 3.31:1. Sadly a project car now but a driver from '89 to '06.
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post #34 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by joybill44 View Post
the area circled in red is the weep hole in the bottom of the pump. If the coolant is coming from there, it is definitely the bearing.

Bill.
I don't see that hole in my video, what orientation would it be while installed on the engine?

It's dripping off of the drain plug for the water pump but I think the leak is higher up but I just can't see the exact source.

I ordered a water pump with orings, thermostat, and sprocket holder which should all be in tomorrow. Just gonna go ahead and pull it apart and if there's a crack in the block, I imagine I'll see it. Did anyone look closely at the video I posted? I can refill it, warm it up and take another video and try to get a better shot.

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post #35 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:58 AM
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I'm still baffled at how a semi-enclosed system has this issue.
The weep hole is between two sealed bearings. one on the water pump side to keep coolant from from leaking into the weep hole and one on the oil side of the pump to keep oil from leaking into the weep hole. one reason for having the weep hole between the two sealed bearings is to eliminate the possibility of coolant getting into the oil system or oil into the coolant system.

New water pump does not come with all the gaskets, O rings, and seals needed. Fel-Pro sells a complete kit for that for just a few bucks. see the photo for the part number.

Bill
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post #36 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:02 AM
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with pump installed, weep hole is on the bottom of the pump. You might get lucky, your video seems to show the fluid coming from higher up than the weep hole.

Bill.
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post #37 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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I'd rather it be the water pump. I'm fully prepared to replace the water pump. If it's not the pump, what else would it be?

Here's a better video now that I got it up on ramps. https://youtu.be/2T8aYH38M_I

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post #38 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:46 AM
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UGGHH, introduced air into the cooling system

You need this:

ACDelco 10-5045 Multi-Purpose Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye - 1 oz

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I2VPC4..._sacwDbW02GDK7

And this:


Interdynamics Certified A/C Pro UV Leak Detection Kit, UV Light with Glasses, 438

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOB594..._RbcwDbXNQHSBC

Or just get the big kit, which is what Iíve used successfully to find oil and coolant leaks:

MASTERCOOL 53351-B Black Professional UV Leak Detector Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHJXHG..._QccwDbWFPSPZC

There are different types of dye for AC, coolant, oil and hydraulics.


This will tell you EXACTLY where the leak is. Could be the water pump, line going to/from the turbo, head gasket, head, block, something magically flowing from a hose or clamp, etc. Dye is the best and fastest way to make sure youíre replacing the right thing before spending an entire day and hundreds of dollars on a guess.








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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 08-17-2019 at 10:00 AM.
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post #39 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joybill44 View Post
The weep hole is between two sealed bearings. one on the water pump side to keep coolant from from leaking into the weep hole and one on the oil side of the pump to keep oil from leaking into the weep hole. one reason for having the weep hole between the two sealed bearings is to eliminate the possibility of coolant getting into the oil system or oil into the coolant system.

New water pump does not come with all the gaskets, O rings, and seals needed. Fel-Pro sells a complete kit for that for just a few bucks. see the photo for the part number.

Bill
I'm talking about air being trapped in a semi-enclosed cooling system by the act of adding coolant to an overflow tank.

Driving and working on a Sly 2008 Solstice GXP 5spd 260/260, and the worst-built 2012 LS3 Camaro 1SS to escape from Oshawa.

Gone but not forgotten:
2007 Solstice GXP 5 speed 290/340

Stored and needing to part ways with a 1970 Skylark Custom convertible I have owned since 1989 and turned into a GS455 clone. 462 with 7/8 primary headers, adjustable roller rockers, TA Performance Stage 1 aluminum heads, auto, Chevy 12 bolt, 3.31:1. Sadly a project car now but a driver from '89 to '06.
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post #40 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:50 AM
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UGGHH, introduced air into the cooling system

My Delco Professional pump came with the o-rings.

Also, for pump replacement, youíll need the holding tool (unless you want to remove the entire front of the engine to reseat your balance shaft chain after you remove the pump):

OTC 6616 Water Pump Holding Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C6P0NS...p_mob_ap_share

There is also a half-circle version of that tool. Do not get the half-circle (also called half moon) version. The full circle makes it a lot harder to drop a bolt behind the timing cover.

DDM has pretty good instructions for pump R&R:

http://www.ddmworks.com/assets/image...0Waterpump.pdf




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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar

Last edited by raygun; 08-17-2019 at 10:01 AM.
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post #41 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:58 AM
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Correction! I was wrong! the weep hole on the factory pump is on TOP of the pump when installed. The replacement pumps have two weep holes, one in the top and one in the side. the weep hole I pictured is in the side of the pump when installed, The other is a smaller square opening in the TOP of the pump when installed. I just assumed the hole would be on the bottom of the pump (where it should be). that would account for water coming down around the pump. OE pumps have only the top hole and not the side hole.

The same engineer that designed the passenger presence system must have designed the water pump as well.

I like those low ramps in your video. where did you get them?

Bill.
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post #42 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:02 AM
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Having the weep hole on top makes it a lot easier to spot a leak during a casual inspection, such as when checking your oil.


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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #43 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:05 AM
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Like raygun says, If you haven't ordered the gear tool yet, get the full circle tool. the half circle tool works but makes it much easier to accidentally drop a bolt into the timing chain gallery.

Bill.
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post #44 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:06 AM
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Having the weep hole on top makes it a lot easier to spot a leak during a casual inspection, such as when checking your oil.


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good point, never thought of that.
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post #45 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisBlair View Post
I'm talking about air being trapped in a semi-enclosed cooling system by the act of adding coolant to an overflow tank.
One trick I learned years ago in systems that were hard to purge. Next time you change the thermostat out, drill a 1/16" hole in the new thermostat. It will not effect the operation of the tstat and will allow trapped air to move through the system when the tstat is closed. works well on oil coolant systems that have tstats as well.

Bill
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