UGGHH, introduced air into the cooling system - Page 9 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #121 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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i have a total of $5k in this car thus far, including the car itself and the HP tuner, so not really bad at all. I plan to autocross this car, so I want to be sure it's as good of a condition as it can be.

How hard is it to do the delete kit?

I saw this: WERKSracing Ecotec Balance Shaft Delete Sprockets, Performance Autowerks

and this: MWR Ecotec Balance Shaft Deletes, Performance Autowerks

but what concerns me is this statement: "***Requires balance shafts to be cut and machined at the rear of the front mount housing." Does that apply if you are using both parts?

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post #122 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 08:28 AM
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That's a great question. I don't have this particular mod on either of my cars so I can't say for sure. That said, I think the MWR part completely replaces the stock shaft. I can't see how that would fit while maintaining the stock shaft.

BUT, Dave Gilbert at Performance Autowerks would certainly be able to answer. They're very good about responding quickly to email and answering their phone. (Though, who knows if they're open as today is a holiday.)

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #123 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 09:47 AM
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From my understanding, a few have removed these and wished they hadn't. While you'll net about 20hp from it, its just not worth it unless all you're doing is racing the car. The only real advantage too it is that if you are tracking the car, you can use an electric WP instead of chain driven.

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Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
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ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #124 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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From my understanding, a few have removed these and wished they hadn't. While you'll net about 20hp from it, its just not worth it unless all you're doing is racing the car. The only real advantage too it is that if you are tracking the car, you can use an electric WP instead of chain driven.
Does anyone here run an electric WP and can shed light on the install process and what needs to be removed? I imagine the stock water pump has to remain in place.

I have pulled the radiator fan, the hood, the charge pipes, and the upper radiator hose. Stopping for the day as I have spent way too much time on this car the last few days. I will say that the radiator fins are literally falling off with the lightest of touches, so I think an upgraded radiator is now a must. Does anyone know what modifications on the fan shroud are needed to fit the WERKS radiator?

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post #125 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:00 AM
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If you are looking for a "better" radiator...look at Griffin Radiators. They're custom, so they're not cheap... I dont even know if they make them for the Solstice. It's a friend of a friend that owns the company. I know they do them for older muscle cars and trucks....

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #126 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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If you are looking for a "better" radiator...look at Griffin Radiators. They're custom, so they're not cheap... I dont even know if they make them for the Solstice. It's a friend of a friend that owns the company. I know they do them for older muscle cars and trucks....
I'm not looking at going extravagant with the radiator, without a working water pump, the car runs for several miles before overheating so I doubt even the stock radiator has issues keeping the motor cool. I just figured that while I had it all apart and the radiator is clearly not in good condition, I would "upgrade" it. WERKS looks much thicker and better built so I'll just upgrade to that, unless the stock radiator is pretty cheap.

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post #127 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:06 PM
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I have the Werks (Howe) radiator on my '06. It's a drop-in replacement, except for the fan shroud which needs to be trimmed on the sides to fit. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel, masking tape, a Sharpie and a steady hand make short work of it.

But, it's a $650-ish radiator. Not sure what the stock radiator goes for, but it has to be less than that. The extra gallon of coolant and WAY more surface area really comes in handy for road racing, but for autocross it's overkill.

Could you elaborate on fins "literally falling off?" As in, they are LITERALLY falling off?

Electric water pumps have been done by a few guys on the Cobalt forums (they also use the LNF motor). It's nontrivial. A properly installed pump should last you ~100k miles on this engine. (Though others have had different experience, so let the tomatoes fly.)

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #128 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I have the Werks (Howe) radiator on my '06. It's a drop-in replacement, except for the fan shroud which needs to be trimmed on the sides to fit. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel, masking tape, a Sharpie and a steady hand make short work of it.

But, it's a $650-ish radiator. Not sure what the stock radiator goes for, but it has to be less than that. The extra gallon of coolant and WAY more surface area really comes in handy for road racing, but for autocross it's overkill.

Could you elaborate on fins "literally falling off?" As in, they are LITERALLY falling off?

Electric water pumps have been done by a few guys on the Cobalt forums (they also use the LNF motor). It's nontrivial. A properly installed pump should last you ~100k miles on this engine. (Though others have had different experience, so let the tomatoes fly.)
Yes, the fins are very corroded and weak, even just lightly running my hand across the fins makes them crumble off.

Still trying to find a cost effective timing and balancing kit that won't crap out quickly but also won't break the bank. Anyone have any experience or can recommend a kit?
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post #129 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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I have the Werks (Howe) radiator on my '06. It's a drop-in replacement, except for the fan shroud which needs to be trimmed on the sides to fit. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel, masking tape, a Sharpie and a steady hand make short work of it.

But, it's a $650-ish radiator. Not sure what the stock radiator goes for, but it has to be less than that. The extra gallon of coolant and WAY more surface area really comes in handy for road racing, but for autocross it's overkill.

Could you elaborate on fins "literally falling off?" As in, they are LITERALLY falling off?

Electric water pumps have been done by a few guys on the Cobalt forums (they also use the LNF motor). It's nontrivial. A properly installed pump should last you ~100k miles on this engine. (Though others have had different experience, so let the tomatoes fly.)

Yes, the fins are very corroded and weak, even just lightly running my hand across the fins makes them crumble off.

Still trying to find a cost effective timing and balancing kit that won't crap out quickly but also won't break the bank. Anyone have any experience or can recommend a kit?

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post #130 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 01:30 PM
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(Though others have had different experience, so let the tomatoes fly.)
Huh? What? Someone call for Tomato?
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post #131 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Got the timing cover off!

So it looks like the balancer guide broke, tensioner sprung itself out into the cover, and the crank sprocket ate itself up since it didn't have tension.
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post #132 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 02:32 PM
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There are about 4 different name brand kits....ACDelco, Cloyes, Melling and 1 other I can't remember. Don't buy chinese junk knock offs. You'll be back in this same boat again in a year. Spend the $200 on one that I mentioned....It'll be like $100 for timing and $100 for balancer kit....

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #133 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 04:27 PM
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Wow. That's... impressive.

Maybe we should make some polycarbonate timing covers. It'd save some diagnostic time.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #134 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 11:06 PM
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Thx for the updates @laser411. FWIW, check this out (no affiliation).
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...pgrade-159705/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153210121039
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post #135 of 140 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Luckily the timing chain is nice and tight, I think my upper guide bolt will probably come out just fine and not be a pita.

I did buy the Cloyes balance kit and then the Cloyes timing kit because they published videos on the process to satisfy my curiosity and it was a well made video; A company that is willing to do something like that, has my vote.

While I am at it, I'm going to buy the upgraded radiator (stock is about $200 and this one is horribly corroded), charge pipes, CAI, and intercooler upgrade (stock one is dented). If the car lasts more than a month after all this, I will upgrade the turbo, downpipe, and maybe the fuel rail.
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