Audio System Questions - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Audio System Questions

Hi,

I recently got my first Solstice: 2006 model and am not too satisfied with the stereo system install. It appears to have been (still is?) a Monsoon equipped version, as the code shows up on the sticker in the glove box AND there is a factory sub mount (whether the speaker itself is factory or not, I don't know yet)... yet someone installed a 1 DIN aftermarket JVC head unit in the dashboard (at least with the dash kit, and apparently the steering wheel interface.) Anyway, what I am planning on doing is this: I want to pull the JVC KD-AHD65 that is in it, and drop in my Kenwood KDC-X994 and upgrade the speakers.

Yeah I know I'm in for a little fun in just tracking down the HDRadio (KTC-HR300) adapter, the Sirius (KCA-SR50) Adapter and the Sirius tuner, plus the adapter to allow both hooked up (KCA-S220A.)

What I need to know in particular is what has been the largest door speaker mounted without much modification, and has anyone managed a 10" sub in the same enclosure as the original 8". Also, has a 4" speaker been successfully installed where the 3.5" speakers are? Also, as the USB on the Kenwood is a cable and not part of the face of the unit, where might be a good spot for it? And the mic? I'm not into competition audio and I'm also not into treating my solstice as if it was taking on the local race track or drag strip. I just like a good solid bottom end in my audio in addition to it having a clean output.

TBH I'm almost afraid of what I'll find when I finally get to opening things up, as they seemed to have skipped the chime interface and the sub doesn't seem to be hooked to the sub-out on the JVC head. I don't even know if they bypassed and/or ripped out the monsoon amps.

Also, what is the code for satellite being included?

Advice, input, etc. are appreciated.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 06:25 AM
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Barnes View Post
Hi,

What I need to know in particular is what has been the largest door speaker mounted without much modification, and has anyone managed a 10" sub in the same enclosure as the original 8". Also, has a 4" speaker been successfully installed where the 3.5" speakers are? Also, as the USB on the Kenwood is a cable and not part of the face of the unit, where might be a good spot for it? And the mic? I'm not into competition audio and I'm also not into treating my solstice as if it was taking on the local race track or drag strip. I just like a good solid bottom end in my audio in addition to it having a clean output.
1) Door speakers: 6.5" is about as large as you can go (without rebuilding the doors)
2) Sub: I think people have put larger subs in, but the main issue is how shallow the sub enclosure is. Even an 8" sub must be a shallow one, or you'll have to build a front baffle and poke out of the waterfall panel.
3) Rear 3/4: I wouldn't even bother with these, but you could prolly get 4"-ers glued in there if you really want.
4) USB cable: I wind mine down the footwell and leave a microSD in

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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1) Door speakers: 6.5" is about as large as you can go (without rebuilding the doors)
2) Sub: I think people have put larger subs in, but the main issue is how shallow the sub enclosure is. Even an 8" sub must be a shallow one, or you'll have to build a front baffle and poke out of the waterfall panel.
3) Rear 3/4: I wouldn't even bother with these, but you could prolly get 4"-ers glued in there if you really want.
4) USB cable: I wind mine down the footwell and leave a microSD in
Yeah. I hear you on the 6.5"... it seems most, if not all the 6.75" and some 6.5" are just a little too wide for the cutouts. I'm finding many 3.5" are lower power than my head unit, bottom have mount only issues, or tweeter protrusion issues... or more than I want to spend.

This is what I'm thinking of:

Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 (50-150 watts RMS (75 watts per voice coil), peak: 300 watts, top-mount depth: 2-5/8", sealed box volume: .20-.70 cubic feet)
Rockford Fosgate P165-SI ( Cutout diameter: 5.447 - Car: 5.398, power range: 5-60 watts RMS , peak: 120 watts, top-mount depth: 2-5/16")
( Tweeter: Frame diameter: 1.656 - car: 1.535; Total height: 0.783, car: 0.754)
Sound Ordnance™ P-35B (2-25 watts RMS, peak: 50 watts, top-mount depth: 1-1/2", grilles not included)

Kenwood KCA-S220A (Discontinued)
Kenwood KCA-SR50 (Discontinued)
Kenwood KTC-HR300 (Discontinued)
SiriusXM sxv300v1
Kenwood KDC-X944 (OWNED)

I would consider the

Rockford Fosgate P132 (Tweeter protrusion: 0.47 - car: 0.4, power range: 6-20 watts RMS, peak 40 watts, top-mount depth: 1-1/2")

However, I am concerned about the 20/40 power rating with my head delivering 22.5/50... it might not be wise.

I know I'll need to widen the 6.5" opening about 1/16" (in diameter, 1/32" of material around the diameter) but that shouldn't be too horrendous if I have to put the old speakers back in.

My alternate to the RF sub...
Pioneer TS-SW2002D2


I haven't decided yet on an amp for the sub if the original Monsoon amp isn't available or usable.

Last edited by Bill Barnes; 01-28-2018 at 08:07 PM.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Okay... after poking around, apparently the original setup in this car was:

No XM Satellite, AM/FM Head Unit with 6 CD changer in Dash (can play MP3s via CD), Auxiliary Mp3 Audio Input, Monsoon Speaker System. No OnStar. (rear-view mirror supports no OnStar was ever present.)

As I stated previously, the head unit was pulled at some time and replaced with an after-market unit not of my liking (JVC KD-AHD65) and currently the sub seems tied to the side pillar speakers instead of on its own channel(s).

I haven't verified as of yet, if the power amp(s) are still present. I just might figure out the wiring harness on the Monsoon amp and install my own. Not sure yet.

I'm still trying to figure things out so I can finalize what I am getting, so info would be appreciated by anyone, even though I gather TomatoSoup is the resident guru, and knows the most.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 07:04 AM
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Monsoon wiring below, but I would warn that it is difficult to keep the amp, since all the inputs are high level balanced (both wires rest at 6V).

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Monsoon wiring below, but I would warn that it is difficult to keep the amp, since all the inputs are high level balanced (both wires rest at 6V).

Spoiler: (Highlight this box to see the hidden message.)

On that note, I may take advantage of the wiring still.. but drop in my own amp. Now to decide, to just use the power amp(s) in the head unit (22.5W x4 @ 4 Ohm) and use an external power amp for the Sub (60-80W x2 @ 2 Ohms)... or find a suitable power amp that is five or six channel.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 02:43 PM
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If you're going to change the sub to a single voice coil either at 2 or 4 ohm i would suggest this amp https://www.crutchfield.com/S-dB8qnu...-GM-D9605.html
It should easily fit behind the drivers seat, i have the d8604 and d8601 amps there and they barely fit.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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I'll keep that in mind, although a 2 + 2 can be wired in series for 4, which was something I was thinking about.

Now, looking at the door posts, I don't understand how a bottom mount would not work. The area where the grill goes is curved and a surface/top mount would need to deal with that.



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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Okay.. after some thought, about my head unit and the availability of some of the parts I've been looking at, I've modified what I am looking at. I do have some questions as to what gauge of of wire the original Monsoon power amp is fed off. It appears to have a 20A fuse in it, I'm assuming under the hood. (Been a little chilly here recently, so I haven't done much in physical work on this.) Anyone know for certain? It will make some differences in my misc. column of costs (hardware, harnesses, etc.) Hopefully I won't have the expense of having the wiring harness fixed back to factory conditions.

Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 ALT: P3SD4-8 (dual 2 Ohm coils can give me a 4 Ohm load.)
Rockford Fosgate P165-SE (External crossover version... can use it to take advantage of the original tweeter lines and the mid/mid-bass door speaker.)
Rockford Fosgate P132 (Kinda weak, so I'll either use the fader, and/or cheat and max the channel voltages for them as a form of attenuation. Prob use a high pass @ 100Hz)
MB Quart NA710.5 ALT: NA540.6 (both are 60W/ch, except on the 710.5 where it's 200-350W on the subwoofer channel: BOTH call for 4GA power and 10GA speaker. Hence the question on what exists already.)
Kenwood Excelon DDX794 (double DIN - BT & HD built in.)
SiriusXM sxv300v1
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 07:09 AM
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... Monsoon power amp is fed off. It appears to have a 20A fuse in it, I'm assuming under the hood. (Been a little chilly here recently, so I haven't done much in physical work on this.) Anyone know for certain? It will make some differences in my misc. column of costs (hardware, harnesses, etc.) Hopefully I won't have the expense of having the wiring harness fixed back to factory conditions.
If you look more carefully at the wiring diagram I linked, the fuses are in the BCM (passenger footwell). If you're going to put more powerful amp(s) in, though, I would suggest running new thicker wires direct from the battery with an in-line fuse. The factory wire gauges are adequate for 20A (just), but you should consider at least 12GA for power.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 03:41 PM
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I did a stereo replacement as my first mod. You can read the details on the thread I created titledĒcalling all audiophilesĒ (I would search it on google if you wanna read).

I went the route of 6.5 component speakers, no rear speakers, a 10 inch shallow mount sub and a Bluetooth amp (and a bunch of sound deadening) All fits nicely behind the seats. I went Bluetooth so that I donít have to worry about the head unit being stolen when I park without a roof. My car looks completely stock. Plus even the best head units still suffer under direct sunlight, which is a common occurrence in verts.

Instead I pull up Spotify on my phone and just hit play, no wires attached. Couldnít be happier
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 10:06 AM
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Instead I pull up Spotify on my phone and just hit play, no wires attached. Couldnít be happier
Only problem with that is you wouldn't be able to control the radio while driving in many jurisdictions. Using a cell (for any reason) gets you fines and license suspensions if you do it while driving in an expanding list of areas.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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@TomatoSoup

Thanks for the info on the amp power wiring. Now I'm thinking about attempting to run the new power along side the old... and of course, the 20A fuse is getting pulled just to make sure the original line doesn't short to the body.


@Solsearching

I read that. It was an interesting read. I don't have the original head unit since when I got it it had the JVC HU already in place, so it's almost a moot point. (Someone who really wanted the HU bad enough could just slice through the top anyway.



Now I do have another question (heh... so full of questions.... only way to learn and plan.)...
If I do install another amp in about the same place as the original Monsoon amp, it will obviously be more powerful and produce more heat. Would you recommend modifying the panel for better ventilation or mounting it elsewhere, such as under a seat, or do you think it would be fine behind the panel? (I'm starting to question this position.) Amps can be on the expensive side, and I'd hate to cook one because I let it get too hot. @Solsearching, I'm going to go back and review where you put yours.)
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 08:59 AM
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Only problem with that is you wouldn't be able to control the radio while driving in many jurisdictions. Using a cell (for any reason) gets you fines and license suspensions if you do it while driving in an expanding list of areas.
Thatís a good point, though to be fair your statement assumes one follows all laws to the t. Iím not gonna lose any sleep at night using my phone responsibly while driving, and Iíve lived in enough places that didnít allow phones while driving that Iím used to being discreet. Everyoneís different, but for me the trade off was a no brainer. No headunit will be anywhere close to the convenience of Spotify premium on a phone. (Ability to search for albums and songs, make playlists, and generate radio stations. Head units can do some aspects just as well, but not all. Cars gpsís can be as good as google maps on a phone, but honestelly outside of oem gps in high end cars , they usually fall short of google maps. I imagine some head units can link up with your phone to provide google maps quality gps, however, for me itís not worth the cost and the risk of theft and having to remove it when parking. For me, Bluetooth phone is the best way to control my audio and gps. Now, I see op has said they already have a head unit it, so itís a moot point for them.


Concerning amp placement, I think behind drivers seat is the way to go. My installer didnít even take out the waterfall, he installed the amp and crossover into it. Iím 5í11 and my natural seat position is not compromised. Plenty of ventilation. None of the other routes seemed feasible.
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