1) Door speakers: 6.5" is about as large as you can go (without rebuilding the doors)
2) Sub: I think people have put larger subs in, but the main issue is how shallow the sub enclosure is. Even an 8" sub must be a shallow one, or you'll have to build a front baffle and poke out of the waterfall panel.
3) Rear 3/4: I wouldn't even bother with these, but you could prolly get 4"-ers glued in there if you really want.
4) USB cable: I wind mine down the footwell and leave a microSD in
Yeah. I hear you on the 6.5"... it seems most, if not all the 6.75" and some 6.5" are just a little too wide for the cutouts. I'm finding many 3.5" are lower power than my head unit, bottom have mount only issues, or tweeter protrusion issues... or more than I want to spend.
This is what I'm thinking of:
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8
(50-150 watts RMS (75 watts per voice coil), peak: 300 watts, top-mount depth: 2-5/8", sealed box volume: .20-.70 cubic feet)
Rockford Fosgate P165-SI
( Cutout diameter: 5.447 - Car: 5.398, power range: 5-60 watts RMS , peak: 120 watts, top-mount depth: 2-5/16")
( Tweeter: Frame diameter: 1.656 - car: 1.535; Total height: 0.783, car: 0.754)
Sound Ordnance™ P-35B
(2-25 watts RMS, peak: 50 watts, top-mount depth: 1-1/2", grilles not included)
Kenwood KDC-X944 (OWNED)
I would consider the
Rockford Fosgate P132
(Tweeter protrusion: 0.47 - car: 0.4, power range: 6-20 watts RMS, peak 40 watts, top-mount depth: 1-1/2")
However, I am concerned about the 20/40 power rating with my head delivering 22.5/50... it might not be wise.
I know I'll need to widen the 6.5" opening about 1/16" (in diameter, 1/32" of material around the diameter) but that shouldn't be too horrendous if I have to put the old speakers back in.
My alternate to the RF sub...
I haven't decided yet on an amp for the sub if the original Monsoon amp isn't available or usable.