heater/AC blower stopped working - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #16 of 111 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 10:33 PM
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No, I wouldn't you are going to end up replacing it again anyway. The resistor is held into the blower motor cover with two screws, on the connector end. If you hard wired it would be a pain. The wiring harness is only about 30 bucks, to me it wasn't worth it. Technically you could do that but there isn't much wire there if you had to do it twice.

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post #17 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 08:04 PM
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I had the same problem on mine twice. I replaced the resistor and it burnt again. Just get it from advanced, was like 28 for an Acdelco OEM part. Return it before the year warranty is up, then maybe after they lose enough money from all those returned resistors they may get some competent engineers to address the problem. P.S. most mechanics now, more often than not are retards. The older mechanics are the ones that know how to fix them better. Learn about your vehicle and try to do as much as you can by yourself or do what most common folk do and trade it in.
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post #18 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 01:19 PM
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I just have to say thank you to all ya'll fella's. Mine went out
Saturday and upon reading ya'lls post I was able to fix it myself. Yes I am my daddy's daughter. You guy's rock, thanks again.
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post #19 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-09-2012, 09:57 AM
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Wow! What great info!

Yep same issue with the wire burnout on that exact end!I used a hot knife and cut plastic housing away from that end of connector and sepperated burned terminal. I then attached a new crimp on terminal and added nolox( electrical anti-corrosion compound) to the connection and Wah-La it works! I really appreciate all of your input. It made the locating and fixing this issue easy! It is 107 outside and I need my a/c cranked up!
Thanks again for all your help and input!
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post #20 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-09-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IamSlvrWolf View Post
Yep same issue with the wire burnout on that exact end!I used a hot knife and cut plastic housing away from that end of connector and sepperated burned terminal. I then attached a new crimp on terminal and added nolox( electrical anti-corrosion compound) to the connection and Wah-La it works! I really appreciate all of your input. It made the locating and fixing this issue easy! It is 107 outside and I need my a/c cranked up!
Thanks again for all your help and input!
I wish you had pics to show how this was done. My blower has been out for a while now. I'm just looking for a perminant fix.

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post #21 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 06:38 PM
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This is exactly my problem. Wiggled the connection and got it to work again briefly, but I'm about to sit down and fix it. Thanks!

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post #22 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 11:47 PM
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This was a good little saturday evening project. If you're handy, it could be done in an hour.

Remove the harness from the car. Just leave the white resistor piece connected as it may be a little melted on, so you're not struggling with it upside down in the floorboard. You'll need to remove the two screws holding it in place though. There are three more plugs that were not hard to unclip. The one furthest up is easiest to access by dropping the glove box and approaching from there.

Once out, disconnect the last plug from the resistor piece and cut the offending pin plastic with a hot knife (I used a really crappy $10 one from harbor freight).



Put a new connector on it. I should have used a thinner one as I had to cut a little plastic out of the inside of the white plug to accommodate.


A little heat shrink tubing


plugged them both in and wrapped them in electrical tape to hold it securely.



Worked like a charm! Thank goodness- it's been hot and rainy here this week.

If it stopped working again I'd probably just order the $35 harness, but this time around I was too impatient to wait for one to ship.

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post #23 of 111 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 07:41 PM
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Mine melted because the ECU was put into failsafe mode and disabled the AC when it was throwing a P0119 code for intermittent coolant sensor. As a result of the ECU pulling the AC, it "popped" the resistor much in the same way that everyone else's has.

Thanks for the failsafe GM! But I want my AC on whether my engine's going nuclear or not! I know if its overheating, even though your Chinese sensors obviously don't!

I guess we can all chalk this up as another common issues on our cars.

Last edited by Torquenstein; 09-29-2012 at 07:44 PM.
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post #24 of 111 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 08:12 PM
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Mine went out last week in the middle of a heat wave. Hopefully the parts come in this week.
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post #25 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 05:51 PM
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Okay. Stopped working. Started working. Replaced the relay (position 30 in the fuse panel under passenger's floorboard.) Checked fuses related to the blower/HVAC - no problem (pulled and metered.) Ran the calibration routine on the buttons - no joy. Pulled plugs on the harness and saw nothing melted. Cleaned contacts nonetheless and the HVAC automatically went into calibration mode (buttons flashing for several seconds) and still no blower motor.

This morning we take the car out and the blower works. Shopping finished and leaving to go get lunch - blower doesn't work. After lunch, blower works.

What da .... heck?

I'm inclined to think it may be "chip" related and maybe the chip ain't gettin' the ground it needs?

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post #26 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 05:52 PM
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When I say "stopped working" it's only the blower. When driving there is air being forced through the ducts - warm/cold depending upon the temp setting on the dial.

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post #27 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 07:10 PM
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I'm inclined to think it may be "chip" related and maybe the chip ain't gettin' the ground it needs?
Not sure what 'chip' you mean. The blower is completely "old skool". There's just a big-assed heavy duty multi-way switch attached to the middle knob of the A/C control dials. That just routes the current to one of the resistors in that pack shown in the photos a coupla posts above ^^. The resistor that's thusly 'chosen' limits the current into the motor and hence controls the blower speed.

I would look it the same resistor pack and connector that this whole thread is about. Maybe it looks OK from the outside but the contacts are burnt?

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post #28 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 10:24 PM
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Yeah, what you're describing sounds exactly how our problems started as well!

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post #29 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 10:35 PM
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The heater and controls came from Hummer. Check the Hummer diagnostics and failures?

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post #30 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-16-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Not sure what 'chip' you mean. The blower is completely "old skool". There's just a big-assed heavy duty multi-way switch attached to the middle knob of the A/C control dials. That just routes the current to one of the resistors in that pack shown in the photos a coupla posts above ^^. The resistor that's thusly 'chosen' limits the current into the motor and hence controls the blower speed.

I would look it the same resistor pack and connector that this whole thread is about. Maybe it looks OK from the outside but the contacts are burnt?
Soup - thanks for confirming that. I didn't imagine there would be a microprocessor involved but you find them everywhere anymore. I figured it would be just a 5 position switch as you described. I'll get a fire going in the workshop this afternoon and pop some things apart and put a meter to 'em. I didn't pull the resistor pack out. I guess I'll just hope it ISN'T working today (lol) and see where the current is and isn't present to narrow it down. I'm thinking juice is making it to the rotary switch and passed on to the resistor pack as you imply.

Rob - thanks for the tip, but wasn't the HVAC from the Saturn Vue? (Or maybe it was used in both?) Either way, it's a great idea for an additional resource!

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