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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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darn P0236

I have a car with the GMPP tune for 10 years crimped.... no problem. Just had another car GMPP tuned with the plug N play harness and have the beloved P0236.... now what?
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 05:28 AM
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darn P0236

What’s the output of the MAP sensors look like? Sane values?


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Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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What’s the output of the MAP sensors look like? Sane values?


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I have no idea what you are talking about as i am from the 19th century :-)
Are those values something I can get with my harbor freight scanner?
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gzfqy6 View Post
Are those values something I can get with my harbor freight scanner?
I have no idea. Maybe look up the owner's manual? I use HP Tuners for this stuff. Torque Pro and some other apps will also show you live data like this, with the aid of a cheap Bluetooth or WiFi OBD-2 adapter. (Figure $15-$25 on Amazon.)

The reason I ask is to determine if the connection to the new sensors is the issue or if there's something else going on. If the MAP readings are invalid, then there is likely an issue with the harness or the sensors themselves.

When I installed the 3-bar MAP sensors with the plug & play harness, the harness arrived incorrectly wired. Two of the wires in one of the cables were switched in one connector. But, that caused several codes and the car ran like utter crap. Dave @ Werks identified the problem pretty quickly, and it was a simple matter to push the crossed wires back out of the connector and reattach them in the correct positions.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by raygun View Post
I have no idea. Maybe look up the owner's manual? I use HP Tuners for this stuff. Torque Pro and some other apps will also show you live data like this, with the aid of a cheap Bluetooth or WiFi OBD-2 adapter. (Figure $15-$25 on Amazon.)

The reason I ask is to determine if the connection to the new sensors is the issue or if there's something else going on. If the MAP readings are invalid, then there is likely an issue with the harness or the sensors themselves.

When I installed the 3-bar MAP sensors with the plug & play harness, the harness arrived incorrectly wired. Two of the wires in one of the cables were switched in one connector. But, that caused several codes and the car ran like utter crap. Dave @ Werks identified the problem pretty quickly, and it was a simple matter to push the crossed wires back out of the connector and reattach them in the correct positions.
I was not being facetious. I truly know nothing about this electronic nonsense so any help is greatly appreciated.

lol... my friends and I always make the comment of "it can't be that... it's new" and of course that is exactly what usually is. I think I still have the instructions for butchering the harness. I'll verify the plug/play harness pins are in the correct location. The car actually starts/runs fine, just no boost.

I do have Torque Pro. Bought it specifically for oil pressure after rebuild of engine for initial start up.... of course it told me everything EXCEPT oil pressure
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 11:15 AM
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Most scanners will not read sensor values, they can only read codes and reset the MIL. It is, however, worth checking. What model scanner do you have?

P0236 is set when the pressure of the Intake Air Sensor is not within the correct range relative to the car's barometric pressure sensor during cranking or idling.

You could have a bad Intake Sensor, a bad Baro Sensor, or a wiring problem. A device that can read the sensor values is going to be important.

Did you get the code immediately after installing the tune and the new sensor?

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Without going in great detail, car showed the code before I even left the dealer (back in April). Could not leave the car there as it had no top and was partially assembled. Cleared the code, checked connections and focused on other issues of the car. Fast forward to now.... Car is roadworthy so I went for a short drive to verify an alignment good enough to get me to the alignment shop later this week. Code came up right away.

I'll see if I have anything to read the voltages tonight. I don't see anything on the Torque app resembling any kind of MAP monitoring. I'll check my scanner tonight.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:39 PM
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In my 2008 manual. P0236 refers to issues with the turbocharger boost pressure sensor, not the MAP sensor.

What year is your car?

John
Lexington, KY
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
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In my 2008 manual. P0236 refers to issues with the turbocharger boost pressure sensor, not the MAP sensor.
Are those not the same thing? Manifold air pressure == boost?

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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car is 2007

reason I was focusing on MAP was everyone on here noting that their P0236 post gmpp tune was eliminated by soldering the butchered harness crimps.....and the fact that is all I changed. Where is the boost pressure sensor located..and how is that tested?

I have two sets of these plug-n-play harnesses and both are color coded for cobalt/hhr however everything routes where it is supposed to go. Continuity verified on all. MAP psi is 4.5 with Torque app & obll reader with car warm and idling. Voltage at MAP on charge tube reads 4.95volts with ignition on.

car did not throw the code since I erased it yesterday, but then again I did not go for a drive. Thursday I am taking it up to the alignment shop so we will see then.

Last edited by gzfqy6; 08-20-2019 at 04:57 PM.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:52 PM
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4.5 psi at idle?

At zero boost, should be closer to 1 bar (14ish).

Maybe @JohnWR or someone can chime in and correct me here.


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'07 GXP, Werks Big Wheel K04 and tune, Solo catless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces, RPM rollbar
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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What do I know.... heck I was shocked I was actually able to check this stuff without catching something on fire :-)

Just out of curiosity I hooked up reader to our 2007 Malibu and got a similar value.

Last edited by gzfqy6; 08-20-2019 at 07:08 PM.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 06:42 PM
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4.5 psi at idle?

At zero boost, should be closer to 1 bar (14ish).

Maybe @JohnWR or someone can chime in and correct me here.
Idle should be 0 PSI (1 bar absolute, 0 bar relative)

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Idle should be 0 PSI (1 bar absolute, 0 bar relative)
Ok, so what does that mean? If that is true how do I make it 0 psi....and why is the other car I checked the same? I'll check the other Solstice tomorrow. If that one checks around 4.5 psi yet runs fine am I supposed to make that 0 psi also because it is supposed to be?
Geez, I hate this modern crap. I swear the model T was more reliable.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:14 PM
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Are those not the same thing? Manifold air pressure == boost?
There are two sensors in the GXP: The Turbocharger Boost Sensor is between the intercooler and the throttle body and the MAP sensor is after the throttle body.
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Originally Posted by raygun View Post
4.5 psi at idle?

At zero boost, should be closer to 1 bar (14ish).

Maybe @JohnWR or someone can chime in and correct me here.
The Turbocharger Boost Sensor should read 14.7 psia (or 0 psi of boost) at idle. The MAP sensor will read in the range of 4.5 psia (or 10 psi of vacuum) at idle.
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Ok, so what does that mean? If that is true how do I make it 0 psi....and why is the other car I checked the same? I'll check the other Solstice tomorrow. If that one checks around 4.5 psi yet runs fine am I supposed to make that 0 psi also because it is supposed to be?
Geez, I hate this modern crap. I swear the model T was more reliable.
The pressure you are reading is normal. The problem is that you are reading the wrong pressure.

The "modern crap" is more complex, but more capable and, overall more reliable.
The Model T was significantly simpler but its 2.9l engine developed 20 hp.

John
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