Dirty Valves - Page 7 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #91 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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@rob the elder

IF You're asking if I could come over THEN I'd be delighted to~

I'm putting my resignation in tomorrow for the hospital I work for. I've been recruited to start a new outpatient surgical center. With this being said I will be getting rid of my 120 hours of call that I take monthly in exchange for a 8-5 Mon-Fri job, all with a pay raise! Therefore my weeks should be opening up very soon!

The valve cleaning was by far the easiest part of the job for me. Removing the intake for my first time had a large learning curve...I believe now that I've done it once, I could do it again much more quickly.

I would bring my media blaster, walnut media, handful of tools, and some terrible jokes.

Would you want to change spark plugs at this time? Would you want to install a set of PAW intake/throttle body spacers at the same time? May as well ship your TCM to Dave to let him reconfigure it as well 😃.

I don't have a bore scope but I think that's a great idea to see everything!

ELSE Good luck ::Grin::
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post #92 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 11:32 AM
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Saveaux,

Thanks for the pictures and description. I am rethinking whether I will walnut blast/vacuum or spray/scrape my GXP.

You make it seem easier than I recall cleaning BMW intake valves.

What does the PAW Intake/throttle body spacer do?
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post #93 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 11:38 AM
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@rob the elder

I'm putting my resignation in tomorrow for the hospital I work for. I've been recruited to start a new outpatient surgical center. With this being said I will be getting rid of my 120 hours of call that I take monthly in exchange for a 8-5 Mon-Fri job, all with a pay raise! Therefore my weeks should be opening up very soon!
Congrats on the job!
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post #94 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 11:55 AM
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@rob the elder

IF You're asking if I could come over THEN I'd be delighted to~

I'm putting my resignation in tomorrow for the hospital I work for. I've been recruited to start a new outpatient surgical center. With this being said I will be getting rid of my 120 hours of call that I take monthly in exchange for a 8-5 Mon-Fri job, all with a pay raise! Therefore my weeks should be opening up very soon!

The valve cleaning was by far the easiest part of the job for me. Removing the intake for my first time had a large learning curve...I believe now that I've done it once, I could do it again much more quickly.

I would bring my media blaster, walnut media, handful of tools, and some terrible jokes.

Would you want to change spark plugs at this time? Would you want to install a set of PAW intake/throttle body spacers at the same time? May as well ship your TCM to Dave to let him reconfigure it as well 😃.

I don't have a bore scope but I think that's a great idea to see everything!

ELSE Good luck ::Grin::

I'm getting a borescope

The way that garage day is going, I will need lots of hands on help. My goal for the April event is to make sure all the cars are running and safe. Tires and brakes, oil changes, check the torque etc. Then if we have time we can schedule doing the more demanding tasks like media blasting. I have a larger shop compressor that should handle the job. I have (if I can find it) several pounds of media, a wand and I bought the sucker tool. You could bring yours as a backup. Would like to do the Dragon as a learning / demonstration because we have a backup car.

We have probably ten? Maybe 15 cars that are well over 40k miles and could benefit from the blasting. We have one that is over 150k miles and I don't know that its ever been opened up.

For safety reasons I want to get as many cars with new brake fluid as we can in April and May before we start driving around.

It will be great to have you available to help out at garage day.
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Rob the Elder

Punisher's Daddy
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Carol's husband for 50 years

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post #95 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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@syjos - You're welcome for the write up! The PAW spacer set is basically a thick chunk of plastic that goes between the intake and head, and throttle body and intake. The spacer prevents metal to metal heat transfer. Dave told me at NASSAM that before the spacer set you wouldn't be able to touch the intake with your hand after running the car because the intake would be so hot. After spacer install he could keep a hand on the intake. Cold air is more dense meaning it carries more oxygen for detonation in the cylinder. I got the set for $100 on a "show special". If the 11whp claim is true, I'd gladly invest thousands of dollars at that return for investment. Dave's website describes them as:

This product was added to our catalog on Tuesday 26 April, 2011.
In our continuing improvement of the GM LNF/LDK/LHU engine platform is the WERKSracing LNF/LDK/LHU Intake Manifold Spacer!!! The High Temp HDPE material lessens heat transfer between the cylinder head and the aluminum intake manifold. Our testing has shown a 73 degree (F) reduction in thermal heat transfer between the intake manifold and the cylinder head and an 11whp gain with the spacers installed!!!

http://www.performanceautowerks.com/...cer-set-p-1880
@znaut Thanks!!

Prices on everything:

$100 PAW spacers
$35 Media Blaster on Amazon
$25 Walnut Media
$6 Two Harbor Freight blow gun extensions
$14 Four AC-Delco spark plugs
$8 Permatex Copper Spray Gasket
$5 Harbor Freight dental style pick set
One cut index finger, One Band-aid on said finger

@rob the elder I mentioned on our club email awhile back that I had a failed attempt at changing my brake fluid by myself. I've been planning on bringing my wife into the garage and just doing it the old fashioned two person way "I open bleed valve and tell her to press and hold brake, squirting fluid out the valve, then close valve and have her release brake" rinse and repeat a million times starting with right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Hanging out with the guys (and maybe Jo) and doing it in your garage sounds way more fun though. I'll make plans to go to garage day on the 24th.

I work pretty quickly when I'm by myself, with no one to talk to; but should there be any concern that we may not have enough time to do everything in one day? I'm almost afraid that maybe we should keep the intake valve cleaning for a single day by itself? I'm thinking that it would take me 4-6 hours of straight work to disassemble clean everything, then reassemble. I'll have a better idea of reassembly time after this weekend. I bolted the intake/throttle body up in about 3-5 minutes, I'm hoping everything else will take less than an hour, although several of the bolts we're wooly boogers to deal with.

Do you have the intake insulation/cover on the dragon? Do you have a venom bar installed?
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post #96 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 10:02 PM
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Saveaux do spacers really work? I get how it can help with air temperature, but how long does air take to travel from the throttle body to the combustion chamber? is it enough to raise the air temperature?
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post #97 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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@SSolstice

Im not sure if it really helps to be completely honest. I had some extra money at NASSAM and Dave said "I wouldn't steer you wrong" about the purchase, so I believed him, hah!

There are a number of components on the engine that are susceptible to damage if over headed so even if I don't get 10 whp (which I doubt I could feel anyway) I like that things will be cooler.

In the event that the spacers do literally nothing.....well, it was only $100! In the event that I really do get 10whp AND things are cooler, all for $100....well, that's a huge win in my book!
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post #98 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 06:26 AM
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If you're going to change spark plugs after blasting & vacuuming, I would put a few miles on the old plugs before doing so. Then check the old plugs for speckles on the insulators with an otoscope or magnifying glass and bright light.
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post #99 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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If you're going to change spark plugs after blasting & vacuuming, I would put a few miles on the old plugs before doing so. Then check the old plugs for speckles on the insulators with an otoscope or magnifying glass and bright light.
Great idea!

Forgive my ignorance here....but sort of speckles are you suggesting that I should look for? What's the significance?
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post #100 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 01:41 PM
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Black or dark brown spots from the soot or media that were wedged in the upper part of the valve seats. No harm to the engine, but dirties up the spark plugs. I like "reading" my spark plugs.
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post #101 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally put everything together today. It went much faster than I expected! To recap:

- Walnut blasted valves
- New Spark Plugs (gapped to 0.032, light coat of copper anti-seize, very light coat of dielectric grease on the inside wall of the boot)
- PAW Intake and TB spacer
- PAW TCM Tune (requires sending TCM to PAW)

I went to start the car and....drum roll....nothing! The engine doesn't turn over, nothing.

I reinspect everything, put a meter on the battery, it reads 12.5 volts.

I check the fuses; nothing obviously wrong here.

I perform the definition of insanity, per Mr. Einstein, and try to start the car several more times hoping for a different result.

There is no different result.

I'm embarrassed to admit the following...it then clicks with me....the TCM is still sitting in the shipping box I got from PAW.

I unhook the battery, install the TCM, reconnect the battery and sit in the driver's seat. I turn the key and subsequently have an engine that sparks to life.

An engine that coughs and runs rough. There is a "Reduced Engine Pwr" message staring at me. While the engines still running, it seems to clear up after about 8 seconds.

I turn it off and restarted, once again it runs rough and then clears up.

The thirds time I start the car it runs perfectly but still has the reduced engine per message. I let it idle for quite awhile.

I pull out my OBD2 reader and get the same message that it said on the car a year ago - Error.

I walk to my neighbors house whose a mechanic, since his trucks at home and ring his "Ring" doorbell. For the second time that I've ever rang his bell he doesn't answer.

Tomorrow I'll drive it to O'Reillys and try their reader and reset the code at the same time.

I've read here on the forum that it could be anything from a bad HPFP to an electrical gremlin.

I look forward to my O'Reillys trip....

Stay tuned...
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post #102 of 102 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Update

More embarrassment from me here.....turns out if you don't plug the wiring harness back into the HPFP then it doesn't like to run! I drove it around the block this morning and I'm quite sure that I can tell a definite difference with the TCM tune.

I need to call Dave Gilbert and inquire with him but I'll start with y'all first....

Since the TCM tune claims to remove the torque management system - does that mean I'm able to access more torque than previously? Maybe it's because I haven't driven the car in several months but it sure seems like my butt Dyno says that I'm being pushed into the seat much harder than I previously remember. Perhaps it's cold tires but half way through first gear I get the low traction warning, I never remember the car doing this before the tune.
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