Werks WR3 upgrade thread - Page 2 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 13Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
Thanks Eternity. I will be relocating the PS reservoir prior to the turbo install.

I will look into upgrading the fittings. Unfortunately it's hard to visualize what I need before actually trying to install everything. Do you happen to have any pictures of your setup?
znaut is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 09:10 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: chicago, IL
Posts: 66
Ill get a picture later, but the hose fittings, i used 2 x JEGS Hose Barb Adapter 14mm x 1.5 Male Straight to 3/8" Hose. part number 555-110477, and vibrant .375 heater hose. I also put a high tempurature sleve in it. Heater hose is better for high temperature.
These fittings go right where you would put the banjo bolts on the coolant supply hard line. And i routed the line around the outside of the downpipe, against the frame, so that you can take out the turbo, without undoing to coolant line.
raygun likes this.
EternityFalling is offline  
post #18 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
Thanks for the parts list Eternity. I just ordered everything and will have them on hand when I do the install. I would like to avoid cracked lines if possible
znaut is online now  
post #19 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 04:23 PM
Member
 
raygun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,338
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to raygun
@EternityFalling I had a few blown turbo-to-manifold gaskets on the '06 after I installed the turbo kit. Turned out that I just wasn't torquing the thing down correctly.

Good times.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
raygun is online now  
post #20 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:39 AM
Member
 
easyryderca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: okanagan valley b.c. canada
Posts: 776
I'm just curious is there a test one can do to know if the wastegate & blow off valve are working correctly? Thanks for the explanation raygun on what they do.
easyryderca is offline  
post #21 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 09:38 AM
Member
 
raygun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,338
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to raygun
The FSM usually lists diagnostic procedures for sensors and actuators. If you’re seeing smooth, consistent boost at expected levels for your tune and altitude, they’re most likely fine.

I’m sure you could test the bypass valve by applying shop air, and DC voltage to the pins in the harness connector to make sure the valve opens. If you can hear the high-pitch “SPPFFFFTTT” sound when you release the throttle under boost, it’s working fine. (Others May correct me here, but that’s my take.)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
easyryderca likes this.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
raygun is online now  
post #22 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 09:48 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
I will be doing this same install in the near future. I have all the same parts, but my WG is dumping to the atmosphere not back into the downpipe. I am pretty confident with everything but drilling and tapping my intake. I know it's pretty basic, but it still unnerves me. Good luck and share any tips/trouble you come across and I will do the same.
zmego is offline  
post #23 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 10:54 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: chicago, IL
Posts: 66
Photo as promised. Not the neatest, but you can take out the turbo without spilling a drop of coolant, or dissconecting the line. And yes, im aware of mismatched bolt, i lost one...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20190127_115322_1548611646906.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	343.5 KB
ID:	93275  
EternityFalling is offline  
post #24 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
Thanks for the pic Eternity!

I'm just working through what documentation there is.

"You will need to drill and tap the supplied 3/8" NPT push lock fitting into your intake pipe. Then trim to fit and attach the supplied 3/8" push lock rubber line from the stainless OEM line you removed from the turbo to the 3/8" push lock fitting installed in your intake."

I'm guessing this is the vent line that goes into the stock turbo now being routed into the plastic intake pipe? Anyone have a picture this completed?
znaut is online now  
post #25 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 10:32 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by znaut View Post
Thanks for the pic Eternity!

I'm just working through what documentation there is.

"You will need to drill and tap the supplied 3/8" NPT push lock fitting into your intake pipe. Then trim to fit and attach the supplied 3/8" push lock rubber line from the stainless OEM line you removed from the turbo to the 3/8" push lock fitting installed in your intake."

I'm guessing this is the vent line that goes into the stock turbo now being routed into the plastic intake pipe? Anyone have a picture this completed?
Yes, you have to reroute the breather line from the valve cover to the turbo. The stock turbo has a place for the line to go, but the WR-3 doesn't so you have to drill and tap the intake to create the vacuum needed to pull the oil vapors out of the engine. This picture isn't mine, but the finished product should look something like this.

Side note: If you are installing this larger turbo you should probably have an aftermarket CIA and it probably isn't plastic!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	LNF Intake image.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	1.62 MB
ID:	93307  

Last edited by zmego; 01-27-2019 at 10:35 PM.
zmego is offline  
post #26 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
Ok I see.

The kit includes a long rubber line which extends that stock braided line. My connection is short enough that I don't need the extra line. I can do it like the one pictured.

So that type of connection is called an "SAE quick disconnect push on EFI" fitting if anyone is like me and didn't know what to search for. It looks like you could use something like this to go directly from the factory line to the intake tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...oaAsXyEALw_wcB

I think eventually I would like it welded on and not have the threads protruding into the pipe.
znaut is online now  
post #27 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 11:55 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by znaut View Post
Ok I see.

The kit includes a long rubber line which extends that stock braided line. My connection is short enough that I don't need the extra line. I can do it like the one pictured.

So that type of connection is called an "SAE quick disconnect push on EFI" fitting if anyone is like me and didn't know what to search for. It looks like you could use something like this to go directly from the factory line to the intake tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...oaAsXyEALw_wcB

I think eventually I would like it welded on and not have the threads protruding into the pipe.
That fitting would work nicely. The line is just a breather line and is under very little pressure so you don't have to use the same connection. The "quick disconnect" only works when there is enough space to use a tool! If there isn't enough space then it is anything but quick.
zmego is offline  
post #28 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmego View Post
That fitting would work nicely. The line is just a breather line and is under very little pressure so you don't have to use the same connection. The "quick disconnect" only works when there is enough space to use a tool! If there isn't enough space then it is anything but quick.
Yeah, getting that factory line off of the valve cover looks like a chore.
znaut is online now  
post #29 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
znaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 117
I decided to knock out the PS reservoir relocation while I'm waiting on parts to arrive. This ended up taking a lot longer than it should have but it's done. I chose to 90 degree it coming off of the reservoir to avoid doing the big swoop in front of the battery.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	EFR PSR full.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	459.1 KB
ID:	93387   Click image for larger version

Name:	EFR PSR elbow.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	279.7 KB
ID:	93389  
raygun likes this.
znaut is online now  
post #30 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 09:26 PM
Member
 
raygun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,338
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to raygun
Nice!

The hose routing on that thing has always bugged me - too much of a hack. I know it's designed to be easy to install, but the recommended configuration is sloppy. (No offense to DDM - it works fine, just doesn't feel right.) (Insert inappropriate jokes here.)

I'm still considering moving the reservoir up front, forward of the radiator. There's plenty of room there since removing the stock intake assembly. After the other billion projects I have on the list get completed.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
raygun is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac Solstice Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome