Werks WR3 upgrade thread - Page 4 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #46 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Within the coupler the pipe and turbo are touching and there's no way to swing flush as it's blocked by the hood strut. On the other end I'm an entire pipe diameter off of the coupler.
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post #47 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Even with the hood strut removed it's not even close.
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post #48 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Sent some pics off to [email protected] and he agreed that the tube is too long for the positioning of the Werks components. He graciously offered to cut, clean and re-bead the tube if I marked it and sent it to him.

I started by cutting off 3/4" and that was enough to barely clear everything. Tomorrow I will have to grab a cheap pair of wire crimpers and turn it into a beading tool.

I also found a weld on 3/8" barb fitting and added that to the intake tube for the second PCV connection.
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post #49 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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Negative Ghost Rider


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #50 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 07:53 AM
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I had to play with the routing of the harness to get the MAF connector reach. It's still tighter than I'd like, but it did fit.

Thanks for the link to the extension harness.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #51 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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All done. I still have the rattle in the exhaust as noted in the other thread but the turbo seems to be running ok. I've taken it out for a couple of easy trips around the block while data logging. I see KR around 1500 which I'm attributing to the rattle but so far clean everywhere else.
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post #52 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Slowly working my way through issues as I have time. First real data logging run showed the EFR instantly maxing out the stage 1 sensors. I didn't realize that the factory DIC doesn't read any higher than before with the 3 bar sensors in place. I thought I was safely running 23psi when the logs showed 30+ psi. No knock fortunately.

New boost gauge installed so I can troubleshoot the wastegate. Also seeing P0420 errors which it appears is fairly common with high flow cats on OBD2 cars. O2 sensor spacer on order to try and clean things up.
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post #53 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:30 AM
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@znaut What does the log show with the engine off? Is it possible that it's showing absolute pressure?

You can disable the P0420 CEL in HP Tuners. I had to do that after I installed the catless downpipe.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #54 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
@znaut
You can disable the P0420 CEL in HP Tuners. I had to do that after I installed the catless downpipe.
If you disable the code will you still be able to pass the OBD emissions scan?
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post #55 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by znaut View Post
If you disable the code will you still be able to pass the OBD emissions scan?
I disabled the CEL for P0420. I don't think that actually disables the code (though I could be wrong); rather, it just keeps it from turning on the check engine light. That way, you'll know if a different code has been set when the CEL comes on instead of assuming it's the same old P0420.

I know some states won't let the car pass inspection if the CEL is on, regardless of the emissions check.

In my case, I don't really have my car inspected, so it's not an issue.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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post #56 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:11 PM
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How's tuning the car?
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post #57 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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No real tuning yet. I have to troubleshoot the waste gate operation first and get the boost under control. I've been traveling for work the last two weeks so I haven't gotten anything done other than to install the boost gauge.
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post #58 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 11:49 PM
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there should be a booklet telling you how much psi each spring holds or set the wastegate duty cycle to 0 and see how many psi it holds
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post #59 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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The waste gate spring pressure is set to 14.8 psi. I will test that as soon as I get my other problems sorted out. Currently I am having an intermittent overheating problem which I thought was residual air in the system until I realized that my fan was not coming on. New fan controller is on order and should be here Friday.

I previously did a quick run slowly ramping boost to 25 psi and holding (per the boost gauge) but my HP tuners log is still showing the MAP sensor maxing out. The boost gauge and factory readout track each other below 23 psi. Not sure what is going on there. I double checked the the HP tuner constants for the 3 bar sensors and they are correct.
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post #60 of 74 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:16 AM
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Someone may jump in here and correct me.

My understanding (verified by some quick Googling, for whatever that's worth) is that the MAP sensors measure (duh) absolute pressure, unlike your boost gauge which is measuring relative pressure.

Since the MAP needs to measure vacuum as well as boost, a low (zeroish) output is going to indicate vacuum, while high outputs indicate boost. With the car on and the engine off, I'd expect to see a MAP value that's around 1/3rd of its max output voltage. That would indicate 1 bar (~14.5psi). 3 bar is 43.5 psi, which would correspond to the max sensor output voltage. (I think this is about +5V, but I haven't checked.)

The practical upshot is that 25psi of boost is about 39.5 absolute pressure, or around 2.8 bar. (And, your boost gauge doesn't have the greatest resolution, so 25 could be, say, 25.5.) I read somewhere that the 3 bar MAP sensors actually only read up to around 2.8 bar. In that case, 25psi is very close to the max value that the sensor can accurately read.

TL;DR: Boost above 25psi may not be detectable by the 3 bar MAP sensors.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders

'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
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