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V8 Installation.., '08 GXP

21K views 66 replies 8 participants last post by  Morningside 
#1 · (Edited)
The donor body for this project started life as a red, 2008 GXP convertible. The motor is an Ls7 crate (Corvette), differential is a Gertrag 3.73 and the transmission gear ratios will be: 1st 2.66, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.3, 4th 1.00, 5th .74 and 6th .50. Transmission selection is in process but leaning to the Ford Tremec Magnum XL.

Motor mounts were obtained from Wade Linger along with a welding jig he kindly provided. The Ford specific transmission will get its input shaft exchanged for a GM style, and along with an Ls aluminum bell housing and GM hydraulic clutch unit, fitment to the back of the Ls motor should be possible.

A distance of 33 inches is needed to reach the OEM, 5-speed shift column location (center), from the bell housing mating surface on back of the motor. OEM GTO, Tremec F-body with extension and the OEM 6060 with remote shifter (modified) will all work. I am hoping the XL will be close enough to be fitted with a crooked shift column, precluding cutting the tunnel, using articulated extenders or modifying the remote shifter length.

The pictures show the tacked motor mounts after removing the OEM ones that spanned the cross members.



Front covers will be fitted to the mounts. They are not in place because the front of the mounts need to be exposed in order to reach the inside during final welding.
 
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#55 · (Edited)
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This is a top view of the oil tank showing its PCV lines. Those were OEM 2011 Z06. One side needed modification. The orientation of the hard PCV lines had to be adjusted to aim the plastic PCV lines correctly. Easy job with an adjustable wrench. They rotated easily. The lower end of the tank had to be notched to allow mounting in a lower position and still clear the underbody curve of the side panel. The tank was attached to the frame with two "rivnuts" of appropriate size. Had to get the special tool to flare. Mounting height was an issue, as the hood latch had to clear the top of the tank. The frame or support structure of the side panel, and the panel as well, needed a bit of notching. One aluminum bracket supports the top's side forces. It was made from a 1/8" thick, 1.5 x 1.5, angle; with a hacksaw, files, press and drill. Got some OEM touch up paint to cover my panel cut, which I did with tin snips. The frame I rattle canned.

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The OEM fittings on motor and bottle sides have been converted to AN12. The bottle adapters are evident in picture. Getting the lines to fit will be a challenge. For one the front support bracket is rather close. The tires turns a good bit and I have yet to look with the inner fender installed.
 
#56 · (Edited)
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This is a view of the underside, where the fuel and vapor lines make their way up towards the engine. The OEM route was through the tunnel area and had to be cut off. A GM style fuel connector was formed using a special tool. The fuel line was made out of nylon braid and aluminum fittings. The vapor line was all plastic.

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This view shows the terminus of the fuel at the motor's fuel rain and the accompanying vapor line. I reused the turbo check valve but mostly as an elbow. The vapor line continues to a solenoid actuated valve controlled by the computer, which is sucked from the plastic intake manifold. There is no dealing with plastic fuel or breather line w/o the special tool to insert.

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The clutch line can be seen going up in the same area. Still need to do something about the dangling bleeder. Hose held with wire ties is chafing protection.
 
#57 · (Edited)
These next series show the AN-12 nylon braided hoses from the oil reservoir to the engine. The return was looped high to allow fittings on tank to be one up and one down. This was necessary as there was insufficient room due to the steel structure that supports the side panel. The feed line (the lower one) has a 90 degree male/female AN-12, followed by a 120 degree AN-12 to hose. The return line has a 90 degree AN-12 to hose. Given the proximity to the exhaust, the first 8 inches were insulated.

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#58 ·
Thanks for the update, it looks like it is coming along nicely! You make me feel lazy as I am tossing around a 6 speed conversion on my LS2 car (I did not install the LS2) I think I will be purchasing Werks T-56 trans cross member to make the conversion easier. Rereading this tread reminded me of Werks so thanks again.
 
#60 ·
Currently Yes, the AR-5 is having Syncro issues after 24,000 miles. I will be sure to start a new thread with Pictures.
 
#61 · (Edited)
Positioning the shift column in the correct location may require a Sikky articulated shifter and altering of the motor mounts and muffler to move the engine back or forth. So replacing the stock 5-speed for a Tremec T56 will not be a bolt-on affair. You will also need a driveshaft modification, trans mount and hydraulic TOB. There is also the issue of the speed sensor reluctor and reverse lockout that you will have to wire into the computer.

Severe complications arise when modifying.
 
#62 · (Edited)


This is a view of the starter and its 0 gauge cable. Don't really like the fatness of this cable but it is what the manufacturer insisted on when the cable needs to be 10 feet long to reach the battery. As it can be seen, this is one area of no recourse. The exhaust system will be lower than OEM. Being that the car had a single exhaust, only one side of the pan is indented to house the tube. Have yet to decide whether to fit the cable between the trans and tunnel or allow it to be closer to the hot exhaust tube. There is little extra room for stuff in the 4-cyl Kappa platform. Since I am using OEM motor mounts, the motor will move and placing the cable between the trans and tunnel may cause chafing and .., a fire ... possibly or melting a hole somewhere.
 
#64 ·
We are nearing the completion of this project. It will have been 3 years by the time we finish phase 1. This is the engine and drive train installation and associated wiring and exhaust. Phase 2 will be wheels, brakes and navigation with rear view camera and some interior appointments.

Our subject is a red 2007 EXP with chrome wheels. As such it has a PWM fan. Variable speed, commanded by the ECM in response to temperature and perhaps something else. Super simple circuit. 3 wires: +, - and control. The story to follow is nothing I enjoyed.

The OEM fan was mounted upside down for fitment reasons. The connection plug was now in the opposite side of the car and I needed to relocate the plug to make the fan work. I cut the wires, extended them, reconnect the fan and following; began to test for power and function. Could not find power at the + wire. Went to the manual and looked up the wiring circuit to the fan. Circuit consisted in a single 60 amp fuse. Labeled #1 in the fuse box and the largest capacity fuse in the whole car. Can't get easier than that.

I followed the voltage through the fuse and the box architecture. Found the wire at the connector to the fuse box; but to my surprise it did not go to the fan. WHaaat? FSM says so! After performing serious surgery to the harness, I discovered an additional and identical, red with black line wire. It was easy to follow it right to the ABS module. The 60 amp circuit is feeding the ABS unit, which BTW, is supposed to be fed power from 3 circuits, largest being 40 amp.

Guess saying "go figure" is in order.

The fan was connected to power w/o a fuse, from the factory to us. Seems like an improperly made it to the production line with a fix. But with some curiosity, the manual and a lot of time, the details were elucidated. The car had just under 10,000 miles and these was no evidence of attempts at customization or repairs. I will be posting pictures soon.
 
#65 · (Edited)
Photobucket is now a pay only image hosting website. Water marks in all pictures in this post is their doing. Looking into an alternative to upload the final set of pictures.



This is the OEM shifter attached to the T56. In the future; a suitable column that accepts a 6 speed ball could be installed. For now; the OEM look prevails.



On the "fender liner" rests the protective circuity of the stand alone wire harness. This was a three part carrier that housed the dual fan circuit (now removed; the car has a PWM fan system), power relay for the coils and injectors and and a few other things now going through the OEM fuse box. This has to be minimized as there is no room to place it in. The loose wires remaining seen to the left are, among other things, the 6 wires operating the evap system and a pesky ground of the OEM starter relay coil, the ECU wants to control. w/o this wire the starter will not move when turning the key.

And a few other things still remain...:wink:
 
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