+1 for ChopTop's response.
Check warpage before pulling the block. With a REAL machinist's straight-edge, not a metal ruler.
If I recall correctly, you used the ARP studs. What did you torque them to? Did you use the torque sequence from the service manual? How many steps did you take to get them up to spec?
Note: the ARP studs should be torqued to 90#ft, with the ARP lubricant (no loctite on those suckers), in clean holes and in the sequence shown in the FSM. Doing it wrong may warp the head, but the block is pretty resilient (bigger heat sink). My block got to 304F. I had the head machined, block was and is fine.
If you decide that you must replace the block - and I'd be very surprised if you need to - avoid LKQ. Please.
Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, Borla cat-back, DDM braces, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, some gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-Rs, GReddy Profec, Norm's fenders
'07 GXP, RPM Stage 2, Solocatless downpipe, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted/drilled rotors, BC Racing BR coilovers, Performance Autowerks intercooler, DDMWorks CAI, charge pipes and braces
Last edited by raygun; 07-12-2017 at 02:54 PM.