|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-21-2013 10:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Carpe Diem View Post
|12-30-2012 06:04 PM|
I just hard wired my cheap Cobra ESD 7400 9 band radar/laser detector, I like my cheap detector, I've had 3 speeding tickets + 1 warning WITHOUT this detector and have had ZERO tickets with it. Even though you get what you pay for, I disagree with that statement here.
I hardwired my detector in about 10 mins, but I already had the wires ran, I just drilled the mount into the top plastic latch piece which is above the rearview mirror and spliced these wires into my DDMWorks pillar gauge pod which only turns on when my car is on or cranked, and very clean install.
|12-29-2012 09:43 AM|
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
I like the V1 - that's what I use to swap between cars, but you still need to have the large unit near the top of the windshield, so putting the remote isn't going to help you much.
One thing worth noting - the remote display can be mounted on the plug for power, so that when you get zapped no one behind you can see that you have a detector. Apparently some cops like to light up the radar for a second, watch to see which cars have a sudden light show, and then pull them over regardless of whether or not they were speeding.
|12-29-2012 08:50 AM|
Originally Posted by cdflint View Post
Ahh, found it: https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...shboard-45289/
EDIT: Of course, Canada Bill is correct, you could only mount the remote display there (as Morfious did). Also, although there is some room back there, probably not enough for the length of a a full size radar detector.
|12-29-2012 08:47 AM|
Originally Posted by cdflint View Post
The units like I have that are built for that sort of installation have the electronics stuck under the hood or dash, the detectors up behind the grille (and by the rear license plate on units that include rear detection) and only a small control/display unit visible in the car (mine sits velcroed to the top of the steering housing in front of the gauges.
I believe the only place you could conceal a normal detector would be inside the OnStar unit if you gutted that, and that would only work on the coupes as I'd indicated, so not much use to converts.
|12-29-2012 08:39 AM|
|cdflint||Would it be possible to pull the dash, disassemble a detector and install where the airbag indicator light is? Seems like a good place to make it look like part of the car.|
|12-28-2012 09:30 AM|
Originally Posted by Carpe Diem View Post
Invisicord Products Home Page
|12-28-2012 09:11 AM|
|wspohn||Not going to be of much use to most owners. but it occurs to me that if you gutted the box behind the mirror on coupes only you could house a detector in there. It (IIRC) contains the OnStar antenna.|
|12-26-2012 06:05 PM|
|Carpe Diem||I did the suction cup mount and stretchy power cord thing for a while and really didn't like it. So, I mounted my radar detector above the mirror as shown in the pics below. I hardwired it into the power source at the back of the mirror. I found the cord from a guy who calls his business Invisicord (260) 341-8987. It's been several years - not sure if he's still in business. I can't recall what I paid for it, but I remember thinking it was really inexpensive at the time. The radar detector is mounted high enough and back far enough that it is not easy to see from the outside unless you really look for it, and sun exposure is not an issue. The other black device in the pics stuck to the windshield is my FastTrak toll road transponder. The little round thingy above the radar detector is just a black rubber cork I used to wedge into the space to stop the detector from vibrating.|
|12-25-2012 09:14 PM|
Originally Posted by The_Ghost View Post
To help prevent this problem in the future, part of the design of the pod my STi Magnum is mounted in has a CPU cooling fan. I cut a square hole in the center trim panel, and mounted the fan.
It draws air from inside the dash, and blows it at the bottom of the detector. The pod is air tight at the front, back and bottom, and the only outlet for this moving air is around the opening for the detector itself.
And the switch with the blue LED at the bottom is the power switch for the cooling fan, wired to a constant live circuit to run even when I'm aware from the car. The red LED switch is the main power switch for the detector.
I really only use the cooling fan if I'm driving in the sun on a road trip, or if I park in the sun from about Apr-Sept. If so, I'll put up a reflective sunshield, and leave the cooling fan running. It uses so little power I can easily run it for 12 hours without dipping into the battery reserve at all.
But it seems you have had none of these issues. I will say that my Redline seems much more "fragile" compared to my STi Magnum.
|12-25-2012 08:14 PM|
|The_Ghost||Believe it or not Carbon, I had a detector in my convertible Mustang for the first 3-4 years I owned it and nobody ever bothered it. I live in Detroit!!! I couldn't believe it. I wanted someone to steal it so I had an excuse to get a new one. At the end of owning my Mustang I was hoping someone was going to cut the roof to steal it because I needed a roof bad!! I even started leaving $50 in the center cup holder hoping someone would cut the roof....but nobody did!!! LOL! Nobody ever bothered that car. I left 2 booster seats in it with the top down at the Woodward Dream Cruise parked in Mustang Alley at 9 mile and Woodward (not a very good area) and was gone for 7 hours and nobody touched it....but I did find that the car became the cover of a brochure for the Dream Cruise the next year....LOL.|
|12-25-2012 02:08 PM|
Originally Posted by scottydel View Post
Oh, and depending on how handy you are at soldering, I'd suggest against using these taps, and solder your connections instead. The automotive environment is quite harsh, and all that temperature extreme with all that vibration/jostling/etc and these taps aren't the best idea. Nothing like using silver solder, and proper soldering technique for OE or better reliability in a car. All you'd need to do is strip back and expose a little wiring, then solder the new wiring to that.
Also, do you want the smart cord functions still? I kinda like having them still, and such a tap would remove that function. But if you don't mind losing the smart cord functions, this would really simplify the wiring.
As for the mount, whatever you end up using, just make sure it's rigid enough to not need constant adjustment, that your existing mirror mount is rigid enough to not sag with the added weight, particularly with bumps and rough road, and that it's still easy to mount and demount the detector as you'll definitely want to remove the detector from the car when parking in public.
|12-25-2012 01:19 PM|
I have an Escort Redline, and an STi Magnum. I've had the Redline for about 4 years, and the Magnum under 1 year. I recently had the Redline serviced. I took an existing Smart cord, and hacked it up to hide mine like so:
I cut off the green power LED, and jumped the leads (the red LED is wired in series to the green LED). So now when I have the detector in dark mode, everything stays dark and unlit until detection when the red LED right beside the Bluetooth mic lights up. I also left the mute/volume adjustment button intact.
I also put a little red nail polish over the red LED so that when it lights up, I can see it, but it's not bright enough to light up my face.
I've also seen lots of these where most of the smart cord was retained:
I like this option too, but was worried about a cop noticing it. Where as my current setup is practically invisible to LEO (no notice after multiple stops and RIDE/DUI checks).
Or are you trying to keep your smart cord unmodified?
|12-25-2012 11:33 AM|
Anyone try these?
Will this work in the Solstice?
|12-24-2012 06:16 PM|
|EarthNTX||I have mine mounted above my mirror and remove it when I'm at a shopping center or something like that. Someone WILL steal it if they had a chance, especially when the top's down.|
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