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Thread: Solstice won't start, but has full power Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-04-2019 07:39 AM
Z06-GXP Guys and gals come on. The problem has NOT been fixed. The OP said he ordered a new switch.

STAY TUNED !!!!!!
03-04-2019 06:59 AM
robertllr Here is a link to an interesting observation, related to this discussion, about "Diagnostic Blind Spots":

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...ic-blind-spots

BTW and FWIW, I know a lot of guys/gals on this list are classic and/or performance car buffs. I recently started getting Hagerty's newsletter, and it often has informative, entertaining, and well-written articles on various car-related subjects. Some occasional nonsense and drivel, as well (and having written plenty of nonsense and drivel myself, I know it when I see it); but when it's good, it's very very good.

We now return you to your previous thread...
03-04-2019 06:03 AM
JohnWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame.

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
One point is that the clutch "switch" isn't a switch, it is a transducer.

The only answer I can come up with is that the weakened battery dropped the system voltage low enough that the transducer couldn't reach its calibrated value and prevented the starter from engaging. Adding the charger or boost battery eliminated the voltage drop and let the transducer function correctly.

Your comment about "accidentally fixed the real problem" also makes a lot of sense.
03-03-2019 08:33 PM
raygun
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertllr View Post
I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.
I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame.

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
03-03-2019 08:27 PM
raygun I'm also glad you got it fixed, but... jumping the car wouldn't suddenly make a bad clutch switch start working.

But, hey - if they fixed it, woohoo!
03-03-2019 07:24 PM
Z06-GXP +Good luck to the thread starter but I don't think we have heard the last of this.

I think that dealer is full of it.

If it is the clutch switch it sure does not match any symptoms that were given.

Be sure to update us.

Larry.
03-02-2019 07:47 PM
wspohn In the good old days some local kids managed to get a Fiat 600 about a half mile on the starter motor in first gear as a lark.
03-02-2019 07:38 PM
JohnWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by wspohn View Post
Very frustrating! Glad you found it - I had eliminated the clutch switch from your description too.

Had the same thing happen on my Fiero - no start as the switch went out. I bridged it with a bent paper clip to get going and then permanently bridged the circuit, figuring that if I was ever dumb enough to start it without putting the clutch in I deserved the dent. Ran it for the next 20 years that way.
Plus if it had ever stalled on a railroad track with a train coming you could have driven it off of the tracks with the starter motor. Seems like a safety enhancement to me.
03-02-2019 10:52 AM
wspohn Very frustrating! Glad you found it - I had eliminated the clutch switch from your description too.

Had the same thing happen on my Fiero - no start as the switch went out. I bridged it with a bent paper clip to get going and then permanently bridged the circuit, figuring that if I was ever dumb enough to start it without putting the clutch in I deserved the dent. Ran it for the next 20 years that way.
03-02-2019 09:31 AM
robertllr
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobR View Post
Maybe the extra current from jumping the car bridged the short and it would start?
Absolutely yes on that!

Many times it seems I have temporarily overcome an electrical problem downstream from the battery on some vehicle other simply by boosting the car. I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.

It doesn't always work and the engineer in me constantly wonders if the temporary fix is just random happenstance.

But I'm sure there is a corollary to Murphy's law here!

In any case, good luck with the repair! Let us know if it truly fixes the problem so we can all scratch our heads some more!
03-02-2019 06:58 AM
RobR Maybe the extra current from jumping the car bridged the short and it would start?
03-01-2019 10:01 PM
The Silver Fox Makes no sense. If it is the clutch switch then why should a battery jump start even work? I'm confused.
03-01-2019 08:42 PM
JohnWR I am happy that you found the cause, but it doesn't really seem consistent with the early discussion, since it doesn't make sense that the switch was bad except when jumping. Regardless, congratulations on getting it fixed.
03-01-2019 07:23 PM
mbravata512 Alright, so after several months of being pretty frustrated with seemingly random starting fails and replacing the most presumably common causes, I finally took my '07 GXP to the GM dealer here in Boston. They ran a diagnostic on it and said they would find the issue regardless for $130, so after my troubles this seemed super reasonable to me.

Turns out it is the clutch starter switch that has been causing the issues. There is a short which is not letting the ignition fire when the clutch is down. So a $15 part after all this trouble. Just ordered one and will update once I install, seems like a pretty simple job, just need to get under the dash.

It's a labor of love!
11-30-2018 01:43 AM
cycloneracer What I would do is put a volt meter from the chassis to the jump start terminal near the fuse block. While cranking monitor the voltage. If it's low then trace the bad connection back to the battery. It could the the ground or hot lead. Keep moving the meter back toward the battery till you find a good reading while cranking. If it is good there then take the meter all the way to the starter and while cranking take a reading. It has to be low there if you still have the issue. Trace back the bad connection.
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